I have heard about alot of problems with the 07 800r motor - mainly blowing up. Is there something to watch for or change ? I have 2 07 summits with 800r's - 1 with 1700m & 1 with 370m and they both run great. Is there anything I can do to keep them runnin?
What's the problem with the "07" 800R motor?
- Thread starter SkiDooDude
- Start date
From what I read
The crank cases on some of the 800r's had too tight of a tolerence for the bearings. Eventually the bearing would break down, and seize. A lot of guys found the piston crowns damaged from shrapnel, and write it off as a burndown. Later on the motor, after the so called repair, would totally fail because of the overlooked bearing.
I believe there was too little lubrication also on these motors' bearings, there was a production run that was called back... I believe... Perhaps someone could verify that.
The crank cases on some of the 800r's had too tight of a tolerence for the bearings. Eventually the bearing would break down, and seize. A lot of guys found the piston crowns damaged from shrapnel, and write it off as a burndown. Later on the motor, after the so called repair, would totally fail because of the overlooked bearing.
I believe there was too little lubrication also on these motors' bearings, there was a production run that was called back... I believe... Perhaps someone could verify that.
K
khaddon2110
Well-known member
skidoo has recommended using synthetic oil instead of the mineral. Even though I'm still using the mineral.
You can also check the oil injection level... One of the updates last season was to give a little more oil. I'm thinking they thought both of these would help eliminate some of the failures.
You can also check the oil injection level... One of the updates last season was to give a little more oil. I'm thinking they thought both of these would help eliminate some of the failures.
I have one of the sleds with the bearing tolerance problem, the entire time we thought it was clutching, I brought it in 8 or 9 times, last time I brought it in they replaced the engine (bottom end) so the crank and bearings. I have been out of two rides with the new engine and it now rips. From what I hear there is no way to tell if there will be a problem, seems like 5% have issues. In heavy snow and deep powder/ heavy load mine would sort of bog up and get super hot and the rpm's would start dropping. That is the only clue I had the problem. Another friend's sled was running amazing, one day it seized up. New engine and running great again. Luck of draw from what I can tell. No relation to built dates either from what I can tell.
so there's absolutely no way to know if & when she'll go down?
whats the most miles anybody has on one of these R's? ( original motor without being touched) I heard someone mention that if you put a thermostat on it to help maintain a more uniform temp that would take care of the problem, is that true or BS? I have only used mineral oil in all my Doo's and had very good luck so far, that is what my dealer recomanded - so i bought a 55 gal drum last fall.
1 more question:I was wanting to have RK Tek bore the motor and dynomo jo put some magic under the hood this summer,is this a good idea or not? can it handle it or will it be gernade without a pin?
whats the most miles anybody has on one of these R's? ( original motor without being touched) I heard someone mention that if you put a thermostat on it to help maintain a more uniform temp that would take care of the problem, is that true or BS? I have only used mineral oil in all my Doo's and had very good luck so far, that is what my dealer recomanded - so i bought a 55 gal drum last fall.1 more question:I was wanting to have RK Tek bore the motor and dynomo jo put some magic under the hood this summer,is this a good idea or not? can it handle it or will it be gernade without a pin?
I have got a 07 144" with about 1300 miles on it , i know its not much but all i can say is only 300 of those miles are trail the rest is all from parking lot to powder. and im not easy on my sleds, very rare that my sled is on the ground. my 05 151" had 1500 miles on it and the rod shot out through the bottom. skidoo just has weak bearings and rods, they will go sooner or later, unless you figure out a way to lube your lower end a little better.
O
overboard
New member
There was a machining tolerance issue in the crankcase. For 2008 one of the "updates" listed in the 2008 "whats new" bulletin send out to dealers is that there were taking an additional 10 mil (?) off of the crankcase such that it it would alleviate the extra pressure on the bearings that sometimes caused it to seize.
Initial (which was actually late in 2006) replacement motors were sent out with the same issue - when Ski-doo finally figured it out, in ~ January 2007, they started stamping the new replacements motors with an "R" somewhere near the PTO oil injection. The R bearing journal is machined to different tolerances.
So to replace the bottom end on a motor with the wrong tolerance is still an iffy situation - it may or may not hold up. You really need a crankcase with the lil bit of additional clearance to fix the problem.
I went thru two motors replacement motors so I know the story. I now have an "R" stamped bottom end and all seems well.
Initial (which was actually late in 2006) replacement motors were sent out with the same issue - when Ski-doo finally figured it out, in ~ January 2007, they started stamping the new replacements motors with an "R" somewhere near the PTO oil injection. The R bearing journal is machined to different tolerances.
So to replace the bottom end on a motor with the wrong tolerance is still an iffy situation - it may or may not hold up. You really need a crankcase with the lil bit of additional clearance to fix the problem.
I went thru two motors replacement motors so I know the story. I now have an "R" stamped bottom end and all seems well.
X
XXL
Well-known member
My dealer said there is still a shortage of new motors, he said he could rebuild it faster and get me going again if I wanted, I am waiting for the new one. I broke mine in with mineral (300 Mi.) then a couple of friends who have been mechanics and sledders for 35 years talked me into using Blue Marble which is mineral based. It has run on it since. I am thinking about running doo mineral exclusively in the new one.
so there's absolutely no way to know if & when she'll go down?
1 more question:I was wanting to have RK Tek bore the motor and dynomo jo put some magic under the hood this summer,is this a good idea or not? can it handle it or will it be gernade without a pin?
i had about 1750 miles on mine when it blew. got the new motor and 4 rides later blew the chain case. got that fixed and the first ride with the new chain case i blew another motor (1950 miles). the sled runs awsome right up until the motor blows. ski-doo is definatly on my **** list right now.
Can you see the "R" without taking the motor out ?
So if there is a "R" on it - build it and ride it till I wreck it?
Probably a better idea to ditch the sled & buy a new one to build up verses building the 07 or not?
So if there is a "R" on it - build it and ride it till I wreck it?
Probably a better idea to ditch the sled & buy a new one to build up verses building the 07 or not?
got 1500 mi on mine and had the dealer check the runout on the crank this weekend.....38 thousandths!!!! he is putting a new crank in and rebuilding it this week, hope to have it for Jackson...
whats the runout supposed to be? how do you check it & who is paying for it?
Check run out by taking off the primary clutch and putting a dial gauge on the crank, spin by hand. Most tolerances are about 2 to 5 thou....not 38.
1200 miles on my '07, .002" runout and run nothing but cheap mineral oil. Been a fantastic sled (knocking on wood).
norsepeak is doo paying for the fix?
I'll ck mine a.s.a.p.
thanks guys for the helpful info.
I'll ck mine a.s.a.p.
thanks guys for the helpful info.
