Whats the difference?

[MAINJET]

Was wondering if somebody could tell me what the difference is between the two actuators. I have a stage two Cutler set up and was unable to get more than 8lbs of boost out of it. I called Cutler and they told me I had the low boost actuator. For 150 bucks I got the cheap looking one sitting by the oil reservoir in the picture. I asked why anybody would put a low boost actuator on a stage two. I was told its 50 bucks cheaper. I had to laugh at that. Spend 6K on a turbo system and then try to save 50 bucks on the actuator. And the so called cheap one is set in a nice aluminum body to boot. Makes no sense. Maybe somebody can explain what one does over the other. Longer stroke????

 

[BIGTurboT]

Hey

Not exactly sure of the difference between the two, never had mine apart. Mine is the same as the one that is mounted on yours and I have no problems getting to 10/11 lbs. and I still have a ways to go to crank up the boost controller. Too light of spring in the actuator will cause a lower amount of minimum boost. But like I said before i've never been inside mine...I would think there would be a diaphram in there since there is vaccuum lines running to it, so there may be a leak or tear in that. A heavier spring in the actuator (if they are interchangable) would increase your min boost pressure giving you more range with the controller to crank 'er up. Just something to ponder. I have noticed with mine, how it is set my minimum boost pressure to be about 5 psi, maybe a touch more, which is fine for me if I ride at home with 91.

Good luck

 

[Snopro_69]

From what I understand its a dif diaphram yes. And mine on the stage 2 is the nicer billet looking one too. Have you tightened your actuator rod tighter? That's how you can control the range of boost your knob can put out. With my rod tighten right down I couldn't go any lower than 8 lbs. so I backed it off two turns to cheat it down to 7 - 7.5 for my at home bit of riding.

 

[MAINJET]

From what I understand its a dif diaphram yes. And mine on the stage 2 is the nicer billet looking one too. Have you tightened your actuator rod tighter? That's how you can control the range of boost your knob can put out. With my rod tighten right down I couldn't go any lower than 8 lbs. so I backed it off two turns to cheat it down to 7 - 7.5 for my at home bit of riding.

No I didnt tighten anything. I called Cutler. They looked at my build sheet (they did the whole sled) and told me it has the pump gas actuator and the part number on it should end with a 9. I looked and it did end with a 9. SO they sent me this cheesy looking actuator that the part number ends in a 6. It almost looks like the new actuator would fit inside the aluminum housing. I will call them Wednesday and see whats up. I just thought somebody might enlighten me before then.

 

[sidehill]

The billet aluminum one, cutler tried to make adjustable. You can take it apart and change the spring or add shims for different boost pressure, along with adjusting the rod. It uses the same diaphragm as the enclosed one in your other picture. The problem I had with the billet one was if you do not have some tension on the rod the cover will cut a hole in the diaphragm. Could not buy just the diaphragm had to buy a new actuator tear it apart for the diaphragm.

On my 2013 cutler turbo I went with the sealed actuator and could get it down to 7psi at 10,000 feet. If you do not have some tension on the sealed actuator the cover could cut the diaphragm also.

If you have a good boost controller you can run a low boost actuator and dial in the boost you want. I can run between 7psi and 20psi with my setup.

 

[MAINJET]

The billet aluminum one, cutler tried to make adjustable. You can take it apart and change the spring or add shims for different boost pressure, along with adjusting the rod. It uses the same diaphragm as the enclosed one in your other picture. The problem I had with the billet one was if you do not have some tension on the rod the cover will cut a hole in the diaphragm. Could not buy just the diaphragm had to buy a new actuator tear it apart for the diaphragm.

On my 2013 cutler turbo I went with the sealed actuator and could get it down to 7psi at 10,000 feet. If you do not have some tension on the sealed actuator the cover could cut the diaphragm also.

If you have a good boost controller you can run a low boost actuator and dial in the boost you want. I can run between 7psi and 20psi with my setup.

The problem I have with mine is that when the boost knob is turned all the way down I have 8lbs of boost. then when I turn the boost knob up it wont make any more boost. Its stuck at 8lbs. Cutler sent me this new "sealed" actuator and Im hoping this cures the problem. Just wishing somebody had this same thing happen to confirm the remedy... Another thing that has me a little concerned is that the rod they sent me seems too short. It only catches 5 threads when its adjusted with a 1/2 turn preload. I can take the rod off my old one but it concerns me that they might of sent me the wrong parts. My goal is to be able to run between 8 and 12 lbs.. Thanks

 

[BIGTurboT]

Silly question maybe, but have you had the muffler or pipe off and peeked in the exhaust side of your compressor...I know moisture gets in there, may have rusted the wastgate closed or something. If you can look in there and pull the actuator rod towards the turbo, the gate should open...Also maybe the vac hoses to the actuator and controller are mixed up or leaking, if theres no change when the knob its increased.

 

[sidehill]

If you are having troubles building more than 8 pounds there are lost of things that can cause this. If you think it is the actuator just pull the vacuum line off of the actuator and plug the line, then see if it builds more than 8 pounds. This will build what ever max boost is that the turbo will put out. Dont try to see what max boost is just run it long enough to see if it will build more than 8 pounds. If it makes more boost with the vacuum line unplugged then it is something with the actuator more than likely. If it still only make 8 pounds then you have a different problem. Boost leak somewhere, wastegate stuck open a little, cracked y-pipe or exhaust pipe. Not enough spring pressure on the exhaust pipe connections. Some thing could be wrong with the turbo itself, bearings or a bent fin. These are a few things that could cause you to only build 8 pounds.

 

[MAINJET]

If you are having troubles building more than 8 pounds there are lost of things that can cause this. If you think it is the actuator just pull the vacuum line off of the actuator and plug the line, then see if it builds more than 8 pounds. This will build what ever max boost is that the turbo will put out. Dont try to see what max boost is just run it long enough to see if it will build more than 8 pounds. If it makes more boost with the vacuum line unplugged then it is something with the actuator more than likely. If it still only make 8 pounds then you have a different problem. Boost leak somewhere, wastegate stuck open a little, cracked y-pipe or exhaust pipe. Not enough spring pressure on the exhaust pipe connections. Some thing could be wrong with the turbo itself, bearings or a bent fin. These are a few things that could cause you to only build 8 pounds.

All good info but like I said earlier I called cutler and they said it is my actuator. They said the part number that was on my build sheet was the low boost actuator. (8lbs) With that I ordered the high boost actuator which is the one on the left hand photo by the reservoir. I just am wondering what the difference between the two is.

 

[sidehill]

No difference in the two actuators besides the minimum boost you can run. If you cant adjust your boost it has nothing to do with the actuator unless the actuator is bad. I run the billet one on my 08 TM8 and have no problems adjusting the boost between 6-15 pounds.

All good info but like I said earlier I called cutler and they said it is my actuator. They said the part number that was on my build sheet was the low boost actuator. (8lbs) With that I ordered the high boost actuator which is the one on the left hand photo by the reservoir. I just am wondering what the difference between the two is.