Just seeing what everyone is using for a throttle block, stock one popped apart 1 to many times last season. looking for a metal one that wont come apart on a hard landing.
Whats everyone using for a metal throttle block???
- Thread starter Dubaudi
- Start date
RSI has one with heat.... nicely made...a bit pricey, but worth it...They make a less expensive one without heat...both of them have provision to re-install the factory Throttle Safety Switch (TSS)
If you want to disable the TSS and run a tether.. the IQ-Racer metal throttle blocks are nice and you can find them used for around $20 bucks here and there...I got one on eBay for $15 a couple years back.
CR-Racing has a nice billet one as well for $90 CAD
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If you want to disable the TSS and run a tether.. the IQ-Racer metal throttle blocks are nice and you can find them used for around $20 bucks here and there...I got one on eBay for $15 a couple years back.
CR-Racing has a nice billet one as well for $90 CAD
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Munster finger throttle
Stock Polaris race sled billet block with all the corners radiused.
My TSS Bypass Jumper and a billet kill switch that takes the place of one half of the handle bar T top post clamps, the other side takes the place of the PERC (reverse) switch. I also run a standard Polaris tether for insurance.
My TSS Bypass Jumper and a billet kill switch that takes the place of one half of the handle bar T top post clamps, the other side takes the place of the PERC (reverse) switch. I also run a standard Polaris tether for insurance.
Here is one from my photo album prior to installing on the sled. ALT IMP's TI "T" Top post, old style post mounts with 2010 Rush bushings, Ultra Light Carbon Fiber mountain bike straight handlebar. Kill and reverse switches are Zeta's from the motor cycle side, note they face forward and down so no nuisance activations. Triple clamps are from Deity. Fasteners are all TI. Very light setup.
TSS BYPASS JUMPER
Good looking setup LH
What is the wall thickness on those bars... how does that compare with a powersports bar?
I've been looking at the fat MTB bars (like the FSA's that you have there)... but concerned with durability.
What is your take on this??
Had my eyes on these for a couple years...
The Easton 35mm Havoc aluminum or Carbon bars would be cool... if they could work...easy to CNC some risers (or bore existing) for them.
The Race-Face Atlas and SIXC 35mm come in a lot of cool colors too....and 10mm, 20mm, and 30mm rise.
HMMM... ya got me thinking again.
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What is the wall thickness on those bars... how does that compare with a powersports bar?
I've been looking at the fat MTB bars (like the FSA's that you have there)... but concerned with durability.
What is your take on this??
Had my eyes on these for a couple years...
The Easton 35mm Havoc aluminum or Carbon bars would be cool... if they could work...easy to CNC some risers (or bore existing) for them.
The Race-Face Atlas and SIXC 35mm come in a lot of cool colors too....and 10mm, 20mm, and 30mm rise.
HMMM... ya got me thinking again.
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I've been using the Ride-Engineering kill switches for the PERC that replace the clamp on the brake MC for a while now... kinda like the zeta, but rebuildable.
The racer blocks are really nice (especially the cheap prices out there) ... but only if you install and USE a tether as you will not have the safety switch installed.
I prefer a "slap switch" for kill switch... something that does not require you to hold onto it to kill the engine... put it where it wont be tripped accidentally... the stocker is cool for that IMO.
The racer blocks are really nice (especially the cheap prices out there) ... but only if you install and USE a tether as you will not have the safety switch installed.
I prefer a "slap switch" for kill switch... something that does not require you to hold onto it to kill the engine... put it where it wont be tripped accidentally... the stocker is cool for that IMO.
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S
SNWMBL
Well-known member
Haven't run them yet, but I bought Deity Blacklabel DH bars about a year ago to run on my Nytro build. About the lightest Alu DH bars on the market, 320 grams. I think they'll hold up fine, bicycle components are way ahead of sled components in engineering and materials. Only thing you have to work out is the 31.8 mm clamp. Once they are cut to 29" they should be under 300 grams.
http://www.deitycomponents.com/handlebars.html
CR makes an excellent throttle block, incredibly light and can be shaved down quite a bit.
http://www.deitycomponents.com/handlebars.html
CR makes an excellent throttle block, incredibly light and can be shaved down quite a bit.
Haven't run them yet, but I bought Deity Blacklabel DH bars about a year ago to run on my Nytro build. About the lightest Alu DH bars on the market, 320 grams. I think they'll hold up fine, bicycle components are way ahead of sled components in engineering and materials. Only thing you have to work out is the 31.8 mm clamp. Once they are cut to 29" they should be under 300 grams.
http://www.deitycomponents.com/handlebars.html
CR makes an excellent throttle block, incredibly light and can be shaved down quite a bit.
You can use the Deity Locust Direct Mount stem for the clamp as the bolt spacing fits most 7/8" half clamps. This is the one I used; http://www.deitycomponents.com/locust-dm.html
FWIW
Throttle block and cable from a Honda crf250 with an aluminum tube.
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