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What would you like to see changed for 2014 timbersled?

Don't worry there's aplenty.

But what will come about is the same uncontrollable addiction snowmobilers have no rehab for, more, bigger, badder, to the point they can't handle it.

It's resurrection time has come! Youtube video, starts with Snow goes here vvvv.

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This one actually has a Timbersled, it's owner rides a Mountain Horse to.
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:focus:
 
Option for different shocks ! Can't say i like Fox really. It all started with those terrible Floats ! Pure Junk LOL
 
I would like the front brake line included so you have the choice, hand or foot, and if snowchecking, an option for both together. Instructions that tell you to bleed the brakes from the slave cyl, and where the syringe maybe found. Setup directions about shock preload, limiter strap etc. Some plastic tunnel enclosure to keep snow/ice buildup down.
 
Timbersled 2014 upgrade idea

Use Splined Shafts and Sprockets in Chain Case and go away from the Key-ways. This hopefully would make doing maintenance and gear swaps much easier, especially after riding for a season. This should be stronger and allow for easier removal and installation of sprokets even after the kit gets quite a few miles on it.
 
forget chain upgrades and go belt drive C3 baby ! :face-icon-small-hap

what about a simple switchable valve conector for brake lines to leave on that would make dirt-snow changes easier ? (i guess that would only work on foot brake )
 
Use Splined Shafts and Sprockets in Chain Case and go away from the Key-ways. This hopefully would make doing maintenance and gear swaps much easier, especially after riding for a season. This should be stronger and allow for easier removal and installation of sprokets even after the kit gets quite a few miles on it.

There are simpler and cheaper ways than splined chafts to go away from key-ways.
I'm using Clampex on all my sprockets.
No key-way is reqired, just a 50 mm hole in the sprocket and a plain chaft.
When the allen screws are turned, a double tapered bushing clamps the sprocket solidly to the chaft. It can handle the same torqe as a key-way.
Super easy to assemble and disassemble.
When I'm trying out different gearings, all I need is a allen key to disassemble. No heat and no bulky gear puller. Just remove two screws, insert two M8 bolts to break off the taper lock!
They are not expensive :-)


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Pictures.ashx

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I heard they are or maybe going to try having the front arm on the skid be able to pivot side to side and it will be adjustable. Kinda like ski doo is doing with t motion but in a different way. They are always trying to improve the kits which is awesome. I would like to see the knob for coupling adjustment used on the mountainhorse kits in the future.
 
forget chain upgrades and go belt drive C3 baby ! :face-icon-small-hap

what about a simple switchable valve conector for brake lines to leave on that would make dirt-snow changes easier ? (i guess that would only work on foot brake )

Just get some AMP super seals and add. 2 min job !
 
A closed Tunnel so I will not be soaked after the first 10 minutes now that it gets warmer.:face-icon-small-sad My SX kit on the WR450 is way worse than the standard kit on a KTM 530 Why????

And a special low rider version for vertically challenged people to go on a 450.

When I say low I mean 5" lower than now for 5 foot 4 people so the girls can

Join in the fun with a rig that fits them.

There are also some vertically challenged guys that would pull the trigger if that would come to pass.

But then I already asked for that:face-icon-small-hap
 
Finding ways to reinforce the chaincase and tunnel sides. Seems like a lot of guys I know bend and crumple those sections pretty easy.

Also, work with Mountain Addiction to get those gas tanks to stay on with a clip. Tying down an expensive gas tank track system with a $10 strap is silly.

Ditto. My buddy just smoked a log and not even that hard and destoyed the tunnel side. It just folded like tin foil where the front arm of the skid attaches. It looks cool having that spider web design all cut out where the skid bolts in but it would be much stronger if that section was left solid. The 3/4" wide web bits folded up like tin foil, it took us a couple of hours of Magivering to get the track back turning so we could ride out. Not cool, I understand $hit happens but were that solid I think we would have been on our way with no on hill repairs.

M5
 
Ditto. My buddy just smoked a log and not even that hard and destoyed the tunnel side. It just folded like tin foil where the front arm of the skid attaches. It looks cool having that spider web design all cut out where the skid bolts in but it would be much stronger if that section was left solid. The 3/4" wide web bits folded up like tin foil, it took us a couple of hours of Magivering to get the track back turning so we could ride out. Not cool, I understand $hit happens but were that solid I think we would have been on our way with no on hill repairs.

M5

Couldn't you make up a plate to reinforce this area on the kits that are out there already. Prevent the problem before it happens. I would also like this fixed on the new kits.
 
Couldn't you make up a plate to reinforce this area on the kits that are out there already. Prevent the problem before it happens. I would also like this fixed on the new kits.

That's exactly what we did, we totally diassembled the kit removed the side and pressed it all back into shape. We then made a reinforcing plate out of 3/16ths 5052 and I welded it on to the tunnel side to hold it all together. It actually looks fine and he can ride out the season but he will be putting a new side on in the summer. The holes look nice but they make the side weaker IMO.

M5
 
Those nice web designs also allow snow and air to escape. My SX kit does not have them and i end up wet or full of ice and snow where the 2013 with the web tunnel and ported track runs much cleaner.
I for sure carry a extra 10 pounds of ice in no time.
 
I have really enjoyed my timbersled this year, that being said i think there is room for improvment. we are putting thses things in some really tight places nasty places! It even says "anywhere you want to go" on the chain case cover. I understand im the one going into those situations. we have a group of 7-8 guys that all bought thses this year and it has been a blast but we have spent alot of wrench time also straighting parts replacing bearings and sprockets, fixing shocks, replacing driveshafts and side panels.. These things are fun but the durability isn't there I feel. Instead of making a all titainium kit that they will sell a VERY small handfull of.. How about beefier side panels, a more efective drive system that will hold up a little better, and a better shock option. I know wieght is a big deal to alot of people but at what cost?? I would rather ride all day without a bent or broken part, I will gladly take 5-6 pounds of extra material in the right places. Then get my butt to the gym to make up for it!
 
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Light or strong, pick one.

That has always been an argumentation by the ones selling the existing stuff. Somehow they never survive the development.

Read more about light, super strong and cheaper than aluminium here for example. http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/20...aluminum-with-steel-to-save-weight-and-money/

Or here http://www.ssab.com/en/Brands/Docol1/Products/Docol-1400-M/

Just a few examples.

Just recently the ultra high strenght Docol has been approved for use in Nascar, WRC cars and all dragsters ranging from Top Fuel and downwards.
Advantages versus todays Cr-Mo tubes are lighter and stronger crash cages.

Another way of saying the same thing is like this guy formulates it:
As a structural engineering in another industry who has worked with both steel and aluminum structure, I can only say that this isn’t surprising. Aluminum is less dense than steel, has about 1/3 the elastic modulus, a fixed fatigue life, and several other major disadvantages. It takes more aluminum to get the required strength that less steel can provide, in most applications, it’s really not that advantageous. In applications undergoing shock/vibration, it’s a frackin’ disaster.


Seems Honda did this with the new Accord:

“High-Strength Steel
The 2013 Accord unit-body uses 55.8-percent high-tensile steel, more than in any previous Accord. In addition, 17.2-percent of the steel is now grade 780, 980 and 1,500 – extremely high grades that have never before been used in any Accord. This contributes to higher body rigidity and reduced weight, which directly benefits ride and handling, interior quietness, performance and efficiency and long-term durability.

The measured improvements in rigidity are significant. In static tests, bending rigidity is up 34 percent and torsional rigidity is up 42-percent compared to the previous-generation Accord. In dynamic tests, front lateral rigidity is up 16 percent and rear vertical rigidity is up 39-percent.”
http://www.hondanews.com/channels/honda-automobiles/releases/2013-honda-accord-body

Just wait for next applications!
 
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