What tool(s) do I actually need for removing Skidoo G4/G5 spindles?

[Dogmeat]

I've already watched every Youtube video I can find. So a little back story - I put the 34" Zbroz A-Arm kit on my '23 Shredder last year. The spindles came out of the stock a-arms just like the videos showed, banging on it with a dead-blow hammer for a few twacks popped them right off. So I then installed the Zbroz 34" a-arm kit only to find out that my turning radius was reduced with the stock spindles.

Fast forward to this year, it dawned on me Zbroz made a specific set of spindles that you had to install to regain your turning radius for use with their A-Arm kit ..... Which was super frustrating to me because they made no note of that whatsoever on their website.

So anyways, I get the Zbroz spindles in and I go to install them and I cannot for the life of me figure out how to pop the lower mount out right now. I've banged on it as hard as I dare with the dead blow, I've doused it with penetrating oil and let that soak in hoping that would loosen it up, and I just went and rented a tie rod fork kit from Autozone and I can't even get it to pop off with the tie rod tool.

So my question is - What the flying f*ck am I supposed to do in order to get these spindles off? Is there some Skidoo specific puller tool somebody makes? THis is absolutley maddening to me ..... it just shouldn't be this darned hard to replace a front end on a snowmobile.

 

[jcjc1]

rewriting this post after remembering a step. the lower ones are harder because there's less room to get a hammer underneath the ball joint to force it upward. first i unscrewed the nut almost all the way off to provide a larger surface are to hit with the hammer. then i wrapped the exposed ball joint threads with gorilla tape to protect them from an errant strike. next was to carefully heat the spindle with a torch. heat it for a few seconds, let off then do it again-don't wanna scorch the powdercoat. then i hit the spindle itself a couple of times but most strikes were at the bottom of the ball joint on the nut. this popped both sides out after a few strikes. now though you have to remove the nut but the ball joint is now spinning so i put some tape on a flat head screwdriver and lightly wedged it between the ball joint shaft and the spindle hole to bind it so i could unscrew the nut. worked fine.
it sucks you had to buy additional lynx spindles--can't believe the website doesn't mention that.

 

[simnil]

Depends on how much you like the paint on your spindles? Lift the sled off the ground and hit the spindle hard with a regular hammer from the front and the taper will let go within a few hits, (hard hits). The paint will usually stay on but show some signs of abuse.

 

[Driver]

You can use a ball joint puller, something like this in the picture. Unscrew the nut on the balljoint, but leave it on the end of the thread. Then use the puller to pop out the joint. No need for hammering, heating or whatsoever.

 

[jcjc1]

proper tool’s the way to go, especially if you’re going to do this more than once and wanna keep the paint perfect.

 

[joshkoltes]

 

[Dogmeat]

I’ve been beating on this with a hammer for two days ….. it’s not coming off. I’ll try ordering the ball joint puller

 

[EZ-LYNK]

I just switched out spindles on a G5 expert. I went to Harbor Freight and spent $20 on a ball joint separator. I did have to open the fork part up just a bit with my flap disc. That took all of 10 seconds. The tool worked perfectly and now I have it for next time.

 

[ndfb35]

I just switched out spindles on a G5 expert. I went to Harbor Freight and spent $20 on a ball joint separator. I did have to open the fork part up just a bit with my flap disc. That took all of 10 seconds. The tool worked perfectly and now I have it for next time.

I use this tool, though to beat for $20.

 

[Dogmeat]

Im gonna go buy the harbor freight one tomorrow. Thanks for the tip yall, much appreciated.

 

[simnil]

Too small hammer and/or not hitting hard enough. Four good whacks and it's off! I use my 1kg, (2lbs), sledge hammer.

But the puller is better if that's an option.

 

[gorillam]

rewriting this post after remembering a step. the lower ones are harder because there's less room to get a hammer underneath the ball joint to force it upward. first i unscrewed the nut almost all the way off to provide a larger surface are to hit with the hammer. then i wrapped the exposed ball joint threads with gorilla tape to protect them from an errant strike. next was to carefully heat the spindle with a torch. heat it for a few seconds, let off then do it again-don't wanna scorch the powdercoat. then i hit the spindle itself a couple of times but most strikes were at the bottom of the ball joint on the nut. this popped both sides out after a few strikes. now though you have to remove the nut but the ball joint is now spinning so i put some tape on a flat head screwdriver and lightly wedged it between the ball joint shaft and the spindle hole to bind it so i could unscrew the nut. worked fine.
it sucks you had to buy additional lynx spindles--can't believe the website doesn't mention that.
View attachment 410366

You only need to spray some lube on it and warm up the aluminum taper with a butane torch and they practically fall out, they are tapered so if you expand the ID taper it just falls off.