What should I be looking for to mod a 94 xlt?

[mulestar]

Fellas, I am just kicking this around a bit and I am looking for some food for thought. I have a 94 xlt 600 triple that I love, I bought it a few years ago and I cant find anything I dont like about it. I was thinking about buying a new (er) sled but I am just thinking maybe I should do some mods to "Black Betty". Alot of people pick on her cause she is old, but the damn thing runs, and I feel if I could get some more track length I could at least maintain with the newer sleds.

So question is, what is the best tunnel and rail system to do this with? I see there are still alot of people that are running those sleds and I think they look bad/a** modded out. I do have it piped, but that is all, anything else I could do to the motor? Any and all insights will be accepted. I dont want to totally cut and chop it up for a new tunnel, I am hoping that there is a certain one that would bolt up with maybe some limited use of the gas wrench, but not much. If there isnt I probably wont be doing this, thats why I am fishing here. I have been thinking about doing a maintenance overhaul on the motor, not that there is anything wrong with it, but it does have 5000+ miles and maybe I should do this before it grenades and makes parts.

Please help Betty, she really is worth the cause,

Thanks!

 

[modded93xlt]

I suggest modding it out, I modded my 93 xlt and didn't find a single sled all year I couldn't keep up with. Road with newer long track RMK's all year and the Mod kept up fine. Simple upgrade would be long track it. The 600 has no problems spinning a 144" 2" paddles fit with 8 tooth drivers but just barely. anymore then that and you would want to D&R. I just used a tunnel ext so I didn't have to pull the whole tunnel out. but from my experience this year the best mod after a longer track would be grip on your boards. I didn't have it this year and it makes it hard to stand when playing. let me know if you have any questions. I have done almost everything to mine so maybe you could avoid some mistakes I made along the way. good luck!!

 

[chadkrump]

alright, a lot of people on here r going to tell you to sell the sled and get something newer, now people like me and a few others on here say ride what u like to ride.

My buddy and I both have the wedge chassis and love them.... mine is a 97 700 sks modified, and his is a 93 xlt modified. so we have been crossed this bridge....

the mods on the wedges are endless... and reasonably easy depending on what ur doing.
You were talking about long tracking the sled, that is a good step to get some traction and upgrading the suspension at that time IS A MUST! lighter, more travel etc can be changed on the suspension for it to handle better. front and rear... no drastic tunnel mods need to be done to make it a long track, just a simple tunnel extension can be put on and thats it. depending on how big of a track u go u will need to change ur drivers, so that is something to take into account. many options for suspension...

As for the motor goes, u already have pipes so thats a good start, I would suggest gutting the airbox, no need for all the crap in there. as for the motor goes, those 579 tripples run good and are a dependable motor, its the 597 motors that have problems...
I could go into so much more detail, but thats a lot of typing, I will PM you my number and u can give me a call if u want and I can tell you more things and mods u can do and help u thru them if u would like...

good luck

CK

 

[mulestar]

Allright, that is good news, so where is a good place to look for tunnel extensions? Also do you guys have any problems tuning for the mountains when you go there? I took mine once with pipes and I never got it to tune correctly, and I swore I would never take it again. Now I am thinking I may try it again, I just dont want to haul the thing up there to wrench on it the entire time.

I really like the 155 track length, is that too much? I know they have 155's on 600's now, but would that make mine fall on its face?

Thanks for the input

 

[chadkrump]

tunnel extensions can be found a lot of places, SLP, tracks USA, Vanamburg enterprises, etc.

as for track length goes, 155 is a big track for a sled with 90 hp stock...depending on what pipes u have u could be around 110, 115 hp. I would say 144 would be good but thats just me. Now my buddies XLT we transplanted a 680 ultra motor that pushes 140 hp with SLP pipes.

as for setting up for the mountains, they are picky with jetting with pipes, its a fine tune adjustment that could change with temp and altitude. just takes time....


good luck

CK

 

[fordpickupman]

155....

I run a 151 on mine and love it. I run 9 tooth extro-verts and 17-42 gears. It runs pretty hard and the weight from the extra length is un-noticeable compared to the 136 I ran on it last season. It will still run around 80 mph even geared that low. It works well, I really like it. Mine is not piped either.

 

[modded93xlt]

I would say 144 would be the most to try with that engine. I wouldn't doubt top speed given a decent run, but i would assume if you want that track length you will be in the powder and would rather have the power on command then after 1/2 a mile across a lake. I had a 144 in mine all year and couldn't really find anything the 151-162 went through that I couldn't. I am going to a 151 for next year but am also pushing 140+ hp with a pipes 680 in it. if you do opt for the 144" my buddy and I have all the measurements to make it fit.

 

[mulestar]

Ok, well I think I will try to find a 144" with 2" paddles. Will any track work? Can I put a ski doo track or an A/C track or do I have to stick with a polaris. I get the feeling that the tracks are fairly universal, so that is a good thing. As far as the extensions for tunnel and rail, wow, not too expensive. I just need to find a reasonable used track and drivers and I think I may take this on.

I may just run the sled at stock when I am in the mountains, I really dont want to work on it when I only go two or three times a year. Although I would love to keep it piped.

Thanks all!

 

[fordpickupman]

what?

why would you go to the effort to take off the pipes and re-jet and re-clutch when if you left the pipes on all you would have to do is re-jet and re-clutch without re-piping. Get some info from SLP or whoever made your pipes about tuning it for the higher elevation and use that to start.

 

[mulestar]

Last time I tried everything I knew and it ran like poo, ran great at the lowlands so I just re-jetted and re-clutched thinking I should be good to go, and it ran terrible. I got frustrated and said I would never do it again. Maybe someone could tell me what they are running in the mtns with that same motor. The only thing I did not try was changing needle settings, and the only reason I did not is because I have never done that and I didnt want to teach myself at the mountain.

 

[modded93xlt]

If you are going with a two inch paddle watch the clearance or drop to a smaller driver. I have a 2" finger track in mine and even with an 8 tooth driver I still ground away the excess below the front cooler since it is so tight

 

[fordpickupman]

gearing

I would say 144 would be the most to try with that engine. I wouldn't doubt top speed given a decent run, but i would assume if you want that track length you will be in the powder and would rather have the power on command then after 1/2 a mile across a lake. I had a 144 in mine all year and couldn't really find anything the 151-162 went through that I couldn't.

It works very well, and power is not an problem. It will keep up with 800s on the road, it is no slouch for a stock 579 w 5500 miles on it. But like I said, it is geared as low as possible. It works way better than the 136 did for boondocking, but I don't ride in areas where the big sleds shine. I like the tight grouped trees where the going is slow and you have to maneuver a lot. It all comes down to riding styles and preferences.

 

[Franz]

Last time I tried everything I knew and it ran like poo, ran great at the lowlands so I just re-jetted and re-clutched thinking I should be good to go, and it ran terrible. I got frustrated and said I would never do it again. Maybe someone could tell me what they are running in the mtns with that same motor. The only thing I did not try was changing needle settings, and the only reason I did not is because I have never done that and I didnt want to teach myself at the mountain.

I had this same problem with a '95 XLT 600. SLP triple pipes, geared down, 151 finger track. At 3k it ran fine. As I climbed, it lost quite a bit of power. You need some kind of altitude compensator on those carbs with a triple pipe/and under 600cc, unless you want to play with jets all the time when you change elev. It's debatable if a 151 is the right choice with just a few engine mods if your riding in the mountains. Lots of 600's use a 144 from the factory. Since parts are cheap, see if you can find a newer polaris skid like an extra lite or something when you change the track. Should be a fun sled when you get it dialed in!

 

[chadkrump]

If its the jetting thats giving u the troubles at altitude, u might want to look into a ATACC system. Polaris ran these systems on there xlt rmks for a couple years, so u can try to find one of those systems, OR, SLP sells an Holtzman ATACC kit for carbureted sleds.

Basically in a nutshell, ATACC (Automatic Temperature and Altitude Carburetor Compensator) automatically adjusts carburetion for temperature and altitude changes, and the Tempa Flow which automatically adjusts for temperature with an easy manual altitude adjustment. We also manufacture CV (constant velocity) carburetor slide springs in 6 different rates to provide optimal slide operation for various altitudes.

Hope this helps, would think this would be your best bet...
good luck

CK

 

[mulestar]

Allright, I have been checking around and looking for an atacc system and here is what I have found. Fairly inexpensive, infact there are a couple on the swapmeet here that are brand new and in the box for about half of what they are new. But, it seems about 50/50 on how well they work. Either they like it alot and never have to touch it, or they will not work no matter what they do. I talked to a friend of mine that kind of tinkers a bit on sleds and he said he personally has never seen one work. He also said that the ones he were around were some of the first ones out. Can anyone tell me if they have been improved on since then? Is it something that maybe a pro should install? I would really like to jump on one of those on the swapmeet, I just want to make sure they are going to work for me. Thanks ahead of time, nice to talk to fellow wedgie riders.