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what needs to change on the pro

S

snopro_ac

Well-known member
if you ride a pro rmk or a rush, what are somethings to look for as far as problems.

vents holes that need screens, ones that need to be plugged.
running boards need bracing or replaced completely
engine problems or mods that helped you out
seat thoughts
track clean out/clearance
heating issues
riding tips (what this sled likes/what it don't)
what would you change if you had the money or did change cause you had the money

just good information that might help us out if you've already figured it out.
 
Don't clutch it light.

Back off belt deflection about a 1/2 turn to get rid of hot belt squeak.

Don't park into the wind when it snows out without a cover.

Increases in throttle opeing increase fun.

When scouting for deer at 15mph, temp climbs waaaaay up to 136. :face-icon-small-ton

Most, but not all small willows get knocked down b4 hitting hands.

Use tall funnel when adding oil with 2.5 gallon jug.
 
- Spare Belt location needs to be moved and easier to install/removal
- Tool storage location needs to be moved for easier access
- Hood tie downs (not field tested, concerned they easily pop out when sidehilling, carving, etc..)
- Instrument Cluster needs to be tipped up more (when standing up hard to read)
- Hood needs quick release system (something faster then removing bolts and plastic rivets (Make it easier for light jobs - like changing plugs)
- Graphics "Skins" options (Skidoo is offering several designs)
- Provide room on hood/side panel for registration and trail stickers

As you can see I'm being nit picky. This is good since they are very minor concerns. I'm very happy with my sled so far... :face-icon-small-hap
 
- Spare Belt location needs to be moved and easier to install/removal
- Tool storage location needs to be moved for easier access
- Hood tie downs (not field tested, concerned they easily pop out when sidehilling, carving, etc..)
- Instrument Cluster needs to be tipped up more (when standing up hard to read)
- Hood needs quick release system (something faster then removing bolts and plastic rivets (Make it easier for light jobs - like changing plugs)
- Graphics "Skins" options (Skidoo is offering several designs)
- Provide room on hood/side panel for registration and trail stickers

As you can see I'm being nit picky. This is good since they are very minor concerns. I'm very happy with my sled so far... :face-icon-small-hap

good points, i use a polaris tunnel bag for all my crap when riding, the belt fits in there nicely all the way around so i don't have to put it under the hood, you aren't kidding about it not being easy to install. i went with an arcticfx graphic kit. not sure about where the registration will go, might go in the bag too and i'll just pull the sticker out when the cops ask for it.
 
Make the fastening sytem for BOTH hood and side panels different so that they are secure yet easy to remove & install.

Could use a little more clearance around the primary clutch, so that the belt will slide through easier.
 
having almost 0 seat time, there is always room for a better suspension on anything.
 
For me what I've done.. Track CE 2.5 w/2.86 pitch the 5.1 doesn't work where I ride w/snow we get. Gearing 19/43 I like the trees. SLP intake & V-Force reeds with hood air horns removed, a sled needs as much air as it can get. Tied clutch, cuz they really do work better then a tss-04 if you know what worked before with the tss-04. Soon to have a Fastrax cheater head, Slp single w/pcv. Then with time and more miles with diff. snow conditions SHOCKS just don't know what way I want to go.. Nor do I beleive the aftermarket people know what there really going to do until they get some real snow time on there set-ups. But I really think Holz has a huge adv. right now cuz it's really there rear skid... Oh and a sled wrap cuz I didn't wanna look like the 10,000 other Turbo Silver Pro's out there.. But really if you don't do a dam thing to it your going to love it... It just WORKS AWSOME the way it is...
 
ive found eaisy that weld a wingnut on the torx bolt that holds on hood just a big enough hole just to fit torx back in thru the wing nut hole....painted em black and they work swell.. i didnt even have to use the torx tool anymore! :)
 
Could use a little more clearance around the primary clutch, so that the belt will slide through easier.

This isn't as big of a deal as you think. After a couple changes, you get it down to a science. You just pull it under the clutch and turn the clutch by hand. It pops out pretty quick. It was the same on the Dragon.
 
This isn't as big of a deal as you think. After a couple changes, you get it down to a science. You just pull it under the clutch and turn the clutch by hand. It pops out pretty quick. It was the same on the Dragon.

I think the belt comes out easier on the pro then the dagon..
 
The way the front bumper is mounted to the bulkhead is going to be weak, if you hit anything at all it will bust those little cast ears off. The ground is also mounted to the left tab where the bumper is bolted, so if it breaks you will lose your chassis ground. I think I will run another wire from there down to the bulkhead elswhere so if it does break on the hill my sled will still run. I am definately not complaining just a little something I saw.

Let it snow, let it snow!!!!!!!!
 
Spare belt storage location problems.
When you use the factory storage location for the spare belt the clip for the hood vent will rub on the spare belt. The problem with that is it will ruin a $180 belt and possibly break the clip off of the hood in cold weather. If the clip ends up in the clutches or drive line that will suck, could chew up the faces on the clutches and end a day of riding. This should be rectified by Polaris.
 
Spare belt storage location problems.
When you use the factory storage location for the spare belt the clip for the hood vent will rub on the spare belt. The problem with that is it will ruin a $180 belt and possibly break the clip off of the hood in cold weather. If the clip ends up in the clutches or drive line that will suck, could chew up the faces on the clutches and end a day of riding. This should be rectified by Polaris.

Just put a zip tie about 2 " from each end and put it in the stock belt holder - problem solved.
 
Spare belt storage location problems.
When you use the factory storage location for the spare belt the clip for the hood vent will rub on the spare belt. The problem with that is it will ruin a $180 belt and possibly break the clip off of the hood in cold weather. If the clip ends up in the clutches or drive line that will suck, could chew up the faces on the clutches and end a day of riding. This should be rectified by Polaris.

Yep, the belt holder is not ideal. But when you consider how well Polaris made this sled so much smaller to be light and nimble, I'm OK with it. I think the other guys were talking about zip tying the belt so it is compressed together so it doesn't rub as easily.
 
i just finished my 3rd ride on mine and the spare belt has not been an issue at all nor do i see it becoming one. power is good but i think theres mroe to be had in clutching for our altitude. i ride with 2 other pros and me and one other guy were having over revving problems. looked down a couple times and saw 84-8500. once it spikes that high hits the rev limiter or something and just bogs like a sob.

The rear bumper is gonna cause problems for a lotta people i think . Mine broke Clean in half today and one of the other ones i ride with his is starting to delamanite. When wheeling really vertical i think that the stopper for the snow flap is pressing on the bar and its causing it to fatugie
 
i never understood why they did that? Order a CoBe bumper from Fastrax! :first:
 
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