What Mod next for '97 670?

[MountainPowder]

I've decided I am going to quit thinking about buying something new, I like my 670. Need some advice on what mods could/should be done next. Right now it has domed heads, SLP pipes, simmons skis, 6" handlebar riser, 144x16x2 track, sway bar removed. I have been thinking about:

something for more traction on running boards, right now it only has traction on edges, the rest is slippery, punch holes?

Drop brackets, will this help in the deep powder? I noticed my buddies 02 RMK sits quite a bit higher.

Is there a way to make the seat sit higher? or do I need a different seat?

Left-hand throttle

What other mods and how will they help?

 

[PJ-Hunter]

Lose some weight. Find a Boss or other lighweight seat. Change to some Fox Floats, Get some lighweight trailing arms. Try to find a set of skis off a 07 or 08. They will fit, you just have to do a little mod work. Add some ice scratchers and you can delete some of the idler wheels. I don't know if you would want to do this but I deleted my oil injection and ran pre mix. When I was done that 670 ripped pretty good and it hung with the newer ones. That motor is the best, most reliable motor that BRP has ever come out with, IMO!

 

[Idaho Slim]

Since you live in Idaho

I assume you are a mtn rider.......................

#1. Get rid of those slp pipes. Put on the stock pipe with ceramic coating.

#2. What ever can you have if its not HPS, you are losing alot of performace. Get a HPS can with your stock pipe.

#3. RE-gear to 19/45.

#4. TEAM Clutch w/58-42-40 helix and red/black spring.

#5. Cut out your runing boards and install "Snow Eliminators" (PM jeeper, he did this to his 670)

Next lose weight................ Depends how much you want to spend.

Boss seat is - 6 lbs.
Trailing arms -7 lbs.
Hood, if you just do the free mods, you can lose about 9 lbs. But a lite weight hood will get you a total loss of 22 lbs.
You can lose another 17 lbs from the rear skid by installing hiperfax and eliminate your bogies, adding a lightweight brackett & shaft.
BWK 2 wheel kit - 4 lbs.

I had dun all these to my ol 670's.........it rocked!

Good luck.

 

[deaner]

When I had my 670, everyone said that the BEST thing you can possibly do to these sleds is to drop and roll them. Ive heard it makes a huge difference. Relatively inexpensive if you can do it yourself too.

 

[Idaho Slim]

Absoluetly

When I had my 670, everyone said that the BEST thing you can possibly do to these sleds is to drop and roll them. Ive heard it makes a huge difference. Relatively inexpensive if you can do it yourself too.

I assume he has done this since he has the 144 x 16 track, if not its a MUST!! Gooder deaner!

 

[PJ-Hunter]

I dunno about the pipes Slim. I had a set of the SLP twins on mine and they performed very well. But I have some engine work done. I had a Union Bay head with Union Bay porting and polishing.

I never did a D&R, I just changed the drivers and adjusted my clutching and gearing. Probably should have done it.

In order to install a TEAM clutch you will have to install a splined jackshaft from one of the newer ZX models. I think that the REV jackshafts will work but mine was from a ZX. I got it at Al's Snowmobile.

 

[winter brew]

Case and cylinder porting, RV cut....155 easy HP out of a 670 and still reliable!!

 

[SprinterX]

When I had my 670, everyone said that the BEST thing you can possibly do to these sleds is to drop and roll them. Ive heard it makes a huge difference. Relatively inexpensive if you can do it yourself too.

Are these kits available anymore as a buddy just added a 144 to his and said they were'nt?

 

[Zachmandu]

Starting with a bare tunnel/bulkhead, a few years ago I built a 670 from the ground up from parts off of ebay and the 4m. Here is what I did -


SLP twins (I was told that they sucked in the mountains, but I LOVE them from 0' - 3500') I run a dual EGT guage.

tunnel ported case and rv cover.

501 rv.

shorty boots.

Stock 40's, and stock, un-gutted airbox.

eliminate HAC, jet down mains and pilots accordingly.

Torque arm.

19/43 gearing.

Stock purple violet primary spring, 15g, clickers on 1, Goodwin blue in secondary w/ teflon buttons set around 17-18lbs. Run 'Doo -127 belt.

144" track.

'01 136 Mountain Cat skid set-back 4" for 144. Works awesome. Way better than stock. Makes everyone look twice..

Cheap Sno*lite D&R kit, running stock drive sprockets. A must, or you WILL ratchet.

Kevlar/'glass composite hood from Outlaw Composites. I run a tach, and headlight, using a wiring quick-disconnect for pulling off hood.

ZX chassis seat and gas tank. Takes some work, but when you get it all to fit, looks great, and you could easily install a Boss ZX seat when you find one.

Cheap ATV-style Fly bars. I just got the mild steel, and have never tweaked them..

Precision skis. Running Rev/ZX skis on an S-chassis is a pain ski-bumper wise, (skis flop around), so I installed a set of ZX spindles, machining 1/4" spacers to run under the spindles. Mine are bronze, so they act as a bearing surface as well.

I installed a set of front shocks off of an '01 MXz 700. With the longer shocks, I had to run a set of '96-'97 MXz 583/670 radius/steering rods to widen the front end to make them fit.

My friends affectionately call my bastardized sled "Mutt". It runs good, it looks good, has decent suspension....but that is a moot point. I gave up and and finally spent the money and bought an XP.

Pray for me....

 

[Sturgis Sledder]

I would agree on the D/R, port the track and big wheel kit (anything you can do to reduce the rolling resistance will help), I got my drop brackets from WildChild. Big Wheel kit will be useless with smaller drivers. Make the seat higher and lighter by modding your stock seat (cut out some foam and replace it with those foam float tubes).

 

[NoSecondChances]

SLP twins (I was told that they sucked in the mountains, but I LOVE them from 0' - 3500') I run a dual EGT guage.

You're right - the SLP's don't work as good as the Jaws or CP pipes in the hills.

tunnel ported case and rv cover.

501 rv.

shorty boots

eliminate HAC, jet down mains and pilots accordingly.

Porting I'm not sold on, for these motors anyway. Do get a shorty RV cover - Crankshop makes a good one. And yes, 501 Rotary Valve is a must!

I wouldn't eliminate the HAC. I have power jets and twin pipes, and its still a PITA - I would recommend that you leave it in since jetting up and down depending on where you ride is a PITA! If you only change from say 8-10,000 feet total, you could get away with taking the HAC off, but if there is a big spread on your elevation change (say from 4-10,000 feet) I would leave the HAC on, establish a baseline jetting and go.

19/43 gearing.

Stock purple violet primary spring, 15g, clickers on 1, Goodwin blue in secondary w/ teflon buttons set around 17-18lbs. Run 'Doo -127 belt.

144" track.

'01 136 Mountain Cat skid set-back 4" for 144. Works awesome. Way better than stock. Makes everyone look twice..

Cheap Sno*lite D&R kit, running stock drive sprockets. A must, or you WILL ratchet.

ZX chassis seat and gas tank. Takes some work, but when you get it all to fit, looks great, and you could easily install a Boss ZX seat when you find one.

Precision skis. Running Rev/ZX skis on an S-chassis is a pain ski-bumper wise, (skis flop around), so I installed a set of ZX spindles, machining 1/4" spacers to run under the spindles. Mine are bronze, so they act as a bearing surface as well.

Good tips on the clutching.

You can run a 151" track with these, instead of the 144.
Drop and Roll for sure, do the skid setback as discussed. Attack angle is greatly improved. Extroverts for sure if you D&R and setback the skid.

You can take the seat and add 4"-5" of pink insulation styrofoam on the bottom (glue it on with contact cement) and have it recovered. You have to work at it a little to get the seat to form with the gas tank but this makes all the difference when mountain riding. Way cheaper than a boss seat or ZX seat and tank setup.

I run the Pilot 6.9's on my sled and they don't flop, you just have to cut the ski bumpers to fit under the bottoms of the spindles. Takes about 1 hr to install, you have to knock the aluminum spacers out of the old skis or make some other ones up, becuz the newer skis are wider than the old ones where the spindles bolt in.

 

[johnny be bad]

dude, if your going to waste that kind of money doing mods, just save a little more and up grade! anything newers going to beat your mod in stock form. i know, being there, done that!

 

[MountainPowder]

Thanks for all the tips! BTW, it has not been droped and rolled. I do agree with johnny though, to do that many mods I think I would assume just buy something newer.

I really am just looking for one or two mods to do to make it a little better.

So, based on what I have now, if you were only going to do one or two more mods fro now, which ones would you choose to do first??

 

[NoSecondChances]

Thanks for all the tips! BTW, it has not been droped and rolled. I do agree with johnny though, to do that many mods I think I would assume just buy something newer.

I really am just looking for one or two mods to do to make it a little better.

So, based on what I have now, if you were only going to do one or two more mods fro now, which ones would you choose to do first??

Seriously though, if that is your attitude, I wouldn't do anymore then you already have. I agree dumping money into an older sled is somewhat pointless with the newer chassis', but things like the seat mod cost me about $100 at the time. Pretty simple and will make your riding position a lot nicer (sit up higher like the newer sleds). Change the cheap stuff and go from there. Maybe the seat mod, and the RV swap. After that I would leave it alone if you are looking to upgrade in the near to semi-near future. Don't bother with a D&R if the 144 already fits.

 

[deaner]

I agree that it is not worth it putting money into these older sleds. Thats why instead of doing the drop and roll and doing up my 670, I just went and bought a new sled. If you dont want to spend that much, you could even just upgrade to a newer sled than you have. A guy can pick up some pretty pimped out zx's for next to nothing. Then you have the bigger track, bigger engine, etc.

 

[x-guy]

you mentioned installing the drop down brackets, I put those on my 98 Summit X and I really liked them with how it made the center of gravity higher, would definetly recommend for a cheap mod, also can you port your track to lighten it up some and help it freewheel? I dunno if you can do it with the older tracks or not

 

[Sturgis Sledder]

you mentioned installing the drop down brackets, I put those on my 98 Summit X and I really liked them with how it made the center of gravity higher, would definetly recommend for a cheap mod, also can you port your track to lighten it up some and help it freewheel? I dunno if you can do it with the older tracks or not

YEP ! ! !

 

[johnny be bad]

you mentioned installing the drop down brackets, I put those on my 98 Summit X and I really liked them with how it made the center of gravity higher, would definetly recommend for a cheap mod, also can you port your track to lighten it up some and help it freewheel? I dunno if you can do it with the older tracks or not

i did the track porting on both my polaris and yamaha! worked good,exspecially on older tracks( thicker, heavyer tracks) and you can do it yourself, just remember to burn the threads after words!

 

[Idaho Slim]

With those parameters...............

Thanks for all the tips! BTW, it has not been droped and rolled. I do agree with johnny though, to do that many mods I think I would assume just buy something newer.

I really am just looking for one or two mods to do to make it a little better.

So, based on what I have now, if you were only going to do one or two more mods fro now, which ones would you choose to do first??

#1. D&R
#2. Get rid of those damn SLP pipes (If twins) and go to a stock ceramic coated pipe & HPS Can.
#3. Re-gear to 19/45.
#4. All the "free" lightweight mods.

 

[MountainPowder]

I'm not sure I want to get rid of the pipes. I used to have a 98 X with a stock pipe and I have ridden with the guy who owns it now. Mine has better bottom end power, his has higher top end, but not sure I'm concerned too much with top end. Oh and also, the guy I bought it from says the gearing is 25/44, would 19/43 be better, how so? Sorry I don't know too much about tinkering with machines, just like to ride 'em! What's the best traction for running boards? I know I want to do that, tired of slipping, gonna make me wreck one of these days.