What is the best bang for the buck on pro-rmk

[skibreeze]

THIS. Bang for buck nothing comes close. Ya'll can puke out 5 bills for airframes but for 1/4 of the cost you can solve the problem with Matt's inserts. F Bomb's track mod is like having a shorter lug Challenger Extreme.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - Do have to agree about the turbo tho... they're like hookers and cocaine; once you go there there's no going back!

Agreed!

I have had many sets of Better boards on various sleds over the years and put Airframes on my Pro since inserts weren't possible after cutting for the BB's. After seeing how good Madsigntist's inserts worked this winter on a buddy's sled I am totally sold on how well they work.

Before seeing it with my own eyes, I was very skeptical of how they would work, but they stop the snow build up and still have great traction. Medsigntist's inserts are definitely the best bang for the buck!

 

[woodzy]

Link to said inserts?

 

[skibreeze]

Link to said inserts?

PM Madsigntist on here.

 

[Boston Racing]

You could also PM me. We have them in stock.

 

[ak powderhound]

2012 pro-rmk. change the gearing to a 19/46. there is plenty of power now. Put a HPS can on it, so everybody can get out of the way. I ride from 2000 to 6000+. Deep powder to the crap god gives us in the spring. and yes, it's a 163.

 

[scrfce]

Not too sure about a turbo, like said earlier, depends on what riding style you do. Bottom end response on a turbo makes them hard to ride in the trees. I rode a turbo 2 stroke for the last two years and loved it for certain situations. Now riding a PRO with head, can, and 3" track. Most fun I have ever had. Might not do all the highmarking, but I can get there in a couple of pulls.

u get a noticable difference with the head? how much did it cost you to get the head and can up here? askin cause i just snochecked one and will probably do the can and head if its worth it

 

[theultrarider]

u get a noticable difference with the head? how much did it cost you to get the head and can up here? askin cause i just snochecked one and will probably do the can and head if its worth it

I love the PA head on mine. If you are only after peak hp, you will be dissapointed. It only makes about 4hp on top and don't really notice it. What it does give you is about 15 hp from 5-6000rpm. This equals much better/quicker throttle response. The sled jumps like a carb sled. The head cpuled with good clutching is a totally different sled than a bone stocker. Well worth the $$$ if you are a train rider/boondocker.

As for a can, minimal wieght loss, no power increase, just noise. After rideing twin glass packs for the past several years, it's nice to be able to hear again. No can for me unless you were dropping more weight.

 

[ditch1000]

I think the biggest bang for the buck is a Team Tied Secondary. I put one on mine about 200miles ago and it is a night and day difference over the stock secondary. On a 200 yard uphill drag I can beat an identical PRO 163 without the Team Tied by 4-5 sledlengths. I couldn't tell exactly how far cause I was too far ahead!!!

 

[scrfce]

I love the PA head on mine. If you are only after peak hp, you will be dissapointed. It only makes about 4hp on top and don't really notice it. What it does give you is about 15 hp from 5-6000rpm. This equals much better/quicker throttle response. The sled jumps like a carb sled. The head cpuled with good clutching is a totally different sled than a bone stocker. Well worth the $$$ if you are a train rider/boondocker.

As for a can, minimal wieght loss, no power increase, just noise. After rideing twin glass packs for the past several years, it's nice to be able to hear again. No can for me unless you were dropping more weight.

What kinda clutching are u doin with the head, a full kit, just weights or springs? Im gettin a 163 and a fairly dry deep pow tree rider from 6000'-9000'

 

[theultrarider]

What kinda clutching are u doin with the head, a full kit, just weights or springs? Im gettin a 163 and a fairly dry deep pow tree rider from 6000'-9000'

Kits dont generally work well for us here in Ak since we ride deep powder and big mtns but at sea level to 3000'. So we end up "building" our own kits through trial and error. Yes, I'm running slp mtx weights, an slp primary spring and a different helix. I won't bother to say what they are cuz they won't help you a bit lol. Carls cycle's kit however should be a bolt and go for you.

 

[Norway]

Kits dont generally work well for us here in Ak since we ride deep powder and big mtns but at sea level to 3000'. So we end up "building" our own kits through trial and error. Yes, I'm running slp mtx weights, an slp primary spring and a different helix. I won't bother to say what they are cuz they won't help you a bit lol. Carls cycle's kit however should be a bolt and go for you.

Please state what setup you run, more of us sea-level dudes here you know.

Or pm.

Thanks.

 

[Einar74]

Kits dont generally work well for us here in Ak since we ride deep powder and big mtns but at sea level to 3000'. So we end up "building" our own kits through trial and error. Yes, I'm running slp mtx weights, an slp primary spring and a different helix. I won't bother to say what they are cuz they won't help you a bit lol. Carls cycle's kit however should be a bolt and go for you.

Iceland and Norway are in the same league as Alaska 0-3000/4000 ft. So what guys from Alaska are running is what we could be looking at when it comes to general setup, specially clutches

when you talk about "Kits" are you talking about clutch kit or engine kits?

 

[theultrarider]

Please state what setup you run, more of us sea-level dudes here you know.

Or pm.

Thanks.

Iceland and Norway are in the same league as Alaska 0-3000/4000 ft. So what guys from Alaska are running is what we could be looking at when it comes to general setup, specially clutches

when you talk about "Kits" are you talking about clutch kit or engine kits?

Sorry guys, I forgot about you over there. Yes, you feel our pain as well when it comes to clutch kits. Same goes for fueling issues.

The fueling isn't a problem on the stock pro's for us here, but the guys running any of the slp stage kits are having big headaches trying to get them leaned out. They run way too rich in our air here.

As for clutching, I am running a 163 with only a Pa head on mine for mods. I wieght in at 230lbs naked so heavier than most riders. With that said, I run 71gram slp mtx weights loaded with 3grams in the middle and 1 gram in the tip. A slp blue/pink primary spring and the stock secodary spring. For a helix I run a 60/40-.36. And delrin washers in the secondary of course, With this setup, I run a dead steady 8050-8100 rpm in all condtions and have great backshift and puls like a freight train. The lighter guys on 155's get away with pulling a 60/42-.36 and works well. On my sled, with my weight, my rpm is up and down several hundered rpm on a climb. Just too much helix for me.

Aksnowrider rides a twin to my sled other than a bone stock motor and he is about 40 lbs lighter than me. He runs a total stock secondary setup just the blue/pink slp primary spring and a set of slp mtx weights. 68grams, loaded 3grams in the middle and 2 in the tip. His sled also runs solid and cool belt temps and just flat works.

Different rider weights makes a big difference. The way I was clutched early in the year worked great for me. Then I would let a light weight rider take it for a rip and they would hit the det light every time they pointed it up a hill. I switched it up just a touch, and it still worked for me, and no body has hit the det light since.

 

[Einar74]

. Then I would let a light weight rider take it for a rip and they would hit the det light every time they pointed it up a hill. I switched it up just a touch, and it still worked for me, and no body has hit the det light since.

Thank you for this info.

About the det light, my friend who has the pro-rmk has been seeing the det light, and he thought it was because he had a maybe got bad fuel, He has scene it couple times and has started to use higher octane fuel on bone stock sled,
So if I understand you right, you think the det light has something to do with have the clutching setup right. So they but the right load on the motor.

Am I understanding this right?

 

[theultrarider]

Thank you for this info.

About the det light, my friend who has the pro-rmk has been seeing the det light, and he thought it was because he had a maybe got bad fuel, He has scene it couple times and has started to use higher octane fuel on bone stock sled,
So if I understand you right, you think the det light has something to do with have the clutching setup right. So they but the right load on the motor.

Am I understanding this right?

Correct!!!! This is/was very common on the Pro's. They wind up so quick and hard in the midrange that you will bump the rev limiter/det if you do not load the motor hard enough with either a heel heavy weight and/or more helix. Very very few actually have true det issues related to fuel or excess compression unless running a high compression head at too low of an elevation. The 12.5 to 1 heads work just fine at sea level with 90 octane pump fuel. Mine was unridable with stock clutching after I added the head. It would hit the det light so hard it would go into limp mode virtually everytime I hit the throttle. From a standing start, it was fine. Or ease through the midrange, and now issues. Run along at 5-15mph and hit the throttle and limp mode everytime. That is clutching, nothing more...

 

[sketch96]

i dont hear of too many guys changing the gearing in their pros. I am 235 before getting dressed and have been thinkin bout changing the gearig. What is the best setup. stock its 20-42. Is this worth it, has anyone played with just gearing to feel the change it makes. Hw far can you go before you have to change the chain.

 

[Matte Murder]

For me 5-10HP is not worth losing 4 years of warranty. I love the peace of mind I get with a warranty. I would rather drop 40lbs... 23 already gone, 17 to go.

 

[stocksucks!!]

i am with you matte murder..
i droped 80lbs for last riding season. well my first year on a polaris and man what a diffeance.the best thing ever

besides the turbo i added part way into the season.
i am in the prosess of droping another 20-30 lbs for this riding season.
prety much just started a training schedule for this up coming boondocking season trees trees trees all day long.

 

[shell_guy]

Save your money and spend it on airframes and gas. When you need more buy a turbo kit. You spend a lot of money on bolt ons for 5hp here and 8 hp there. Ride the sled, save a few more bucks and boost it, the rkt 858 kit is a good bang for the buck as well if you want low end grunt insted of top end power.

 

[lorne1176]

Silber Turbo....nuff said