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what clutches fit???????

roo

Active member
Premium Member
Time too tap the bottlomless pit of knowledge!!!!!!!!!
would be cool if we could come up with a list of primay and secondary clutches for the snowhawk, the years of clutches and mods that need too be done too make them fit (with hard #'s of tapers and keys Etc.)

Useful stuff!!!!!!!! thanx, jeff
 
That would be nice.

Since I just picked up a fanner I would like to know what to replace my salad bowl with. Should I go with a Ceaser? Spinach? Jello? Seafood Louie? Green?

Or should I just go with the Teriyaki chicken bowl?

OOps, hope this doesn't get moderated outta here, I may have gone a little off topic.....uuuuuuuuuhhhhhhh oh yeah.. clutches...sorry, lost my chain of thought

Like Roo said, thats what I meant.
 
Do I need to send you a block of cheese to go with that bottle of wine?:D



drive. TRA I,II,III,VI - will work on 600 - 800 models
P-85 - 503's has to be modded to fit 600-800 models

driven. Any skidoo Keyed shaft driven will work on the 503 - 600's. 800's require the splined shaft skidoo, 2002 to 2007 i believe. To run the articcat driven you either need a jackshaft or use shim stock and a modified key to make work.
 
The taper on the 503's are differnt than the 600 - 800's and i'm like 99.9 percent sure that it is the same as the p-85.
 
Whats the benefit of swapping out the primary clutch on a 503 or for that matter a 600 or 800. I swapped to a rollor secondary on my secondary but what should i expect to gain on swapping out the primary ?
 
Pretty vague answers here!! Is a better primary clutch going to make it shift faster,give it more speed,make it a wheeley machine or what? And does anyone have one on a 503 that actually compared results ? And if so do they have a base line setting that they used. Just trying to get as much information as possible to see if it's cost effective to go down that road. Thanks in advance for any help or information.
 
what about weights in the p85.. Im learning fast about clutching. from what I have been told lighter weights in the primary will be nessasary for the hawk??
 
Pretty vague answers here!! Is a better primary clutch going to make it shift faster,give it more speed,make it a wheeley machine or what? And does anyone have one on a 503 that actually compared results ? And if so do they have a base line setting that they used. Just trying to get as much information as possible to see if it's cost effective to go down that road. Thanks in advance for any help or information.

It all comes down to if it's set up right for the application or not. But take the TRA3, for example, you have ramps you can change to "match" your application, clickers to rise or lower RPM if you're off your "target RPM" along with the traditionnal spring and pin weight. Better design, more efficiency & more potential to transfer power is what a better primary (TRA or P-85) will give you. But if you set it up wrong, you won't see the difference with a salad bowl.

Who did some intense R&D on a 503 with a P-85/Cat roller last year again, was it Bud or Harley ?

That being said IT IS pretty much the only thing you can screw around with to increase the performance of your good'ol 503 along with regular maintenances and optimizing the drive system/suspension so you get less drag out of it, trick out the motor in any way and you'll end up overheating sometime down the road.
 
What not to do with a p-85

I (Harley) am running a p-85 on my 503 with an Artic Cat secodary. I put the secondary on before the p-85. I loved it and it is the real ticket to gains when it comes to a 503.
I now have the p-85 on, went riding today, not much snow but enough to tune.
Oh, I put a tunder shift kit in my p-85 also.
First I had in the red polaris spring, dont do there, too much tension. I now have the dark blue with white polaris spring in, 120lbs on the engagement and 310 lbs on the shift tension.
She kicks in nice at 2700rpm.
She is ok off the get go, but then due to a weight issue on the arms, she bogs down in even a foot of snow, no power on the mid range or top end.

Now question for you all am I running too much weight in the middle of the arms or not enough, should I have more weight on the outers??
I am running 6.6 grams in hole #1 (close in), 3 grams midrange, and .9g on the outers.
My arm weighs 37.6 g and and the total weight is 10.5 g for a total of 48.1g total for the arm plus the weights.

What are you guys running for weight on your arms for total weight? And what springs are you using, please give Engagment pretension and Shift tension on the spring as there are so many colors out there for each make.

For you guys with 600's give me a spring and a weight you are using, at least I will have a baseline.

Thanks,
PM me or post here.
 
Ibbroken is running a p-85 on a 600, polaris almond/red with 55 gram stock arms, engagment is around 4200 and peak is 8150. We ride sea level to 7000 ft
 
No I have a almond blue, I'm wanting to try the almond red and I ground my weights to 55.5 grams from stock 60 gram wieghts. The 60's would only allow me about 7450 max rpm. I just tried a slp silver spring but the finish was way to much for my lil sixer. Going back to the alomnd blue or the almond red. The blue worked sweet but I like a high engagement. Dont have my paper work here but I will try and post the springs In( lbs.) for start and finish
 
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