What can be done to make the pro steer easier for the girlfriend?
- Thread starter Spiderman
- Start date
Plenty. Easiest is tighten the spring on the center shock.
Controlling trenching on the pro involves the rear track shock, also. It's more than lightening steering effort.
Do this in this order:
1. Unload the front ski shock pre-load as much as you can without the retainers coming loose/off with the front in the air. Make sure you have a turn or two on the adjusters after retainers are loose. If you have alot of ski shock pre-load, you're going to get heavier steering. Less pre-load = less steering effort.
2. Check the rear track shock spring length, track in the air, and set to the recommended range - I'd go on the longer/lighter side if its for the GF, on a Pro, that's usually about 11" maximum spring length, but if it's trenching/too much ski lift, add alittle rear track shock spring pre-load/shorter length, but no more than a full rev at a time on the adjuster. Adding pre-load will make steering heavier, less ski lift, but less flickable. Less pre-load = less steering effort.
3. Fine tune steering effort, after 1. and 2., with the front track shock pre-load. Start with at least a half inch of thread showing below the adjuster on the spring. If it's still loose after 2. above, add more now. Otherwise, ride it first, adding preload 1-2 turns each time. More pre-load = less steering effort.
There's more in the manuals if you have them, but that's the best way to baseline the sled. If you're way out of whack on any of the above, particularly 1. and 2., you can chase some ghosts. No snow doesn't help, but you can baseline it now.
Do this in this order:
1. Unload the front ski shock pre-load as much as you can without the retainers coming loose/off with the front in the air. Make sure you have a turn or two on the adjusters after retainers are loose. If you have alot of ski shock pre-load, you're going to get heavier steering. Less pre-load = less steering effort.
2. Check the rear track shock spring length, track in the air, and set to the recommended range - I'd go on the longer/lighter side if its for the GF, on a Pro, that's usually about 11" maximum spring length, but if it's trenching/too much ski lift, add alittle rear track shock spring pre-load/shorter length, but no more than a full rev at a time on the adjuster. Adding pre-load will make steering heavier, less ski lift, but less flickable. Less pre-load = less steering effort.
3. Fine tune steering effort, after 1. and 2., with the front track shock pre-load. Start with at least a half inch of thread showing below the adjuster on the spring. If it's still loose after 2. above, add more now. Otherwise, ride it first, adding preload 1-2 turns each time. More pre-load = less steering effort.
There's more in the manuals if you have them, but that's the best way to baseline the sled. If you're way out of whack on any of the above, particularly 1. and 2., you can chase some ghosts. No snow doesn't help, but you can baseline it now.
^^^ all good info above
also a ski change thats less aggresive center keel will be easier to steer
that being said i love the gripper skis they work very well
good luck
also a ski change thats less aggresive center keel will be easier to steer
that being said i love the gripper skis they work very well
good luck
Find powder, clamp throttle, wala, easy steering effort
Just keep in mind that you are now setting it up for trail riding and that off trail riding will be more effort instead. It is a trade off.
Just keep in mind that you are now setting it up for trail riding and that off trail riding will be more effort instead. It is a trade off.
Disagree. If you want a trail railer on the pro, you'd be adding RTSS pre-load, reducing FTSS pre-load, and adding front ski shock pre-load, which provides much more steering response, and more effort, and much less ski lift. Widen ski stance.
Setting up a stock pro for more off trail 'flickability' and weight transfer also provides lighter steering - it's the bane of this great stock chassis and pow skid - great off trail = sucks more on trail. Most don't mind the sucking on trail with a stock pro. The only downside of the previously described light steering setup is trenching in bottomless pow, and ski lift on the steeps - both of these can be compensated by the average rider with more forward body position. If the GF is a climbing fool, get a different skid. If you want better on trail, get a doo or cat. The stock pro-ride RMK is just a sucky trail sled, regardless of how you set it up, and that's a good thing.
Setting up a stock pro for more off trail 'flickability' and weight transfer also provides lighter steering - it's the bane of this great stock chassis and pow skid - great off trail = sucks more on trail. Most don't mind the sucking on trail with a stock pro. The only downside of the previously described light steering setup is trenching in bottomless pow, and ski lift on the steeps - both of these can be compensated by the average rider with more forward body position. If the GF is a climbing fool, get a different skid. If you want better on trail, get a doo or cat. The stock pro-ride RMK is just a sucky trail sled, regardless of how you set it up, and that's a good thing.
