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What are your thoughts about the Sno Pro springs on the front skis spindles so far?

Frostbite

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I think I am having a love hate relationship with my Sno Pro spring setup on my ski spindles.

I love them on the groomed trail to and from our riding areas where the skis are at their widest and I can run pretty fast on the trail.

Here's where I'm having issues (maybe).

I'll be turning into a hill to climb an uphill bank and once the nose come down from climbing the bank I will usually need to correct for direction to go between some trees. This is where I'm noticing I try to lay the sled over to pick a line and then I fall over and lay it on its side seemingly because the pivot point (the ski mount) shifts or changes.

I noticed it too when trying to practice powder turns in a meadow.

Now, to be fair. I changed three things at once and any or all of them could be contributing to my issue. I added the Sno Pro springs, I added Powder Pros and I did the Carl's Cycle cut on the outside of the skis (that could be part of the problem as well). Maybe the Sno Pro and Carl's Cycle mod don't compliment each other?

Has anyone removed their Sno Pro springs after trying them?

If you do remove them, where did you add the spacer on the spindle? Did you make the ski stance wide or narrow?

Here's a link to a previous thread on the topic.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182077&highlight=sno+pro+ski
 
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I loved it with my stock skies, made it for a better ride on the trails, less darting. Hated it with my simmons, made it unpredictable, like you said on the hills.
 
Thank you.

I am also wondering since my Fox Float pressures are pretty low up front (52-55) that maybe my front shocks are collapsing at the same time as my sno pro springs and I'm getting a double whammy and maybe that's why I am ending up with the sled on its side?
 
took em off

In the beginning of the season I was a big advocate of the springs, until we got good snow. On the trails my front end was stellar with powder pro skis. Once we got some deep snow to play in, as a smaller guy (165 lbs) I was having trouble getting the sled up on edge to carve turns because the skis were in the 41" stance. So - I took the springs off and moved the skis to the inside position (both spacers) and I really like it better. And - because of my GSR re-valve I still have a good ride on the trail. I believe the best M sled setup for powder - put the skis on the inside position!
 
Jim, you have done exactly what I am thinking of doing.

What are your front Fox float pressures?
 
shock pressures

Jim, you have done exactly what I am thinking of doing.

What are your front Fox float pressures?

50 right, 53 left, 110 rear, front skid preload 2/3 of the way tight. Will probably try decreasing preload and increase rear shock pressure when I get into some deeper snow - hopefully within a week!
 
Jim, I have never adjusted my Zero Pro.

How does one go about it and what does this mean?

"front skid preload 2/3 of the way tight"
 
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it sounds like to me that he has tightened his front skid spring 2/3's of the way. that sounds kinds tight but if that is what he likes you might try it. it only takes a couple of seconds to do.
 
Frostbite, I have the same setup as you but on an M7. And I am on the fence on wether I like it.

When going straight down a perfectly groomed trail and then hard into a turn, I feel that it high sides easier. I think it has to do with the spindle slamming to the outside of the saddle and gaining momentum to high side. No big deal as I really don't ride trails.

When picking through the trees and following someone with a narrow ski stance, I ran into issues with trying to fit through trees. Yes the ski will move over but the delayed reaction tries to rip the bars out of your hands. Whereas before I would sometimes purposely hit the tree with my ski to help me steer. That doesn't work so well with this mod.

I really didn't notice it in the powder at all. I did notice the improvement with the Carl's mod and think I like it. I think it is easier to hold that side hill position with this mod.

The only place I think the spring mod helped was pounding out the moguls on a whooped out trail, but I have the stock zero pro shocks where as a revalve would probably work better.

Joe
 
PowerJoe, I agree.

The only time I think I like the mod is on the trail too and from the real riding.

I was riding in some crusty snow and when I would turn ther ski would break through the snow and slam the ski to the inside of the spindle about ripping my arms off several times.

I think it's time to take Sledjims advice and go to a fixed narrow ski stance.
 
Lee - haven't you adjusted the preload on your zero pro? In your tool kit there is a shock preload wrench that enables you to tighten or loosen the spring on the zeropro. Most people have a lot of preload on the 09 M8's because it gives you less ski pressure. I like the feel with it 2/3 of the way tight because I prefer less ski pressure. When I know I am going to be riding in deep powder I will probably reduce a lot of pre-load on the front skid shock and increase some pressure in the rear. If you think about it, it will enable the front of the skid to have less angle with the rear staying down, to get the sled to pop up on the snow easier. But in low to mid powder conditons I prefer some pre-load.
 
Jim, I went ahead and removed the springs and moved the skis to the narrow stance per your recommendation. I will give it a try.

So, I should move the adjustment ring 2/3rds of the way up the adjsutment range of the Zero Pro?

SLP told me to go 1/4 of the way and frankly I haven't moved the adjustment rings since I got the shocks back for Andy Youngstrom. I guess I figured he probably adjusted them to optimum but, thinking back, he probably never even touched the adjustment rings since he was working on the shock internals.
 
Thank you.

I am also wondering since my Fox Float pressures are pretty low up front (52-55) that maybe my front shocks are collapsing at the same time as my sno pro springs and I'm getting a double whammy and maybe that's why I am ending up with the sled on its side?

I had my front shocks set at 51 psi which was nice for the moguls, but not so good for off-road. When putting more of the weight of the sled on one ski or the other the shock would collapse very fast and would give the sensation of about to roll-over. So I increased psi to 57 and got rid of the diving. I might add that I have the Fett air cannisters on the front and maybe that contributed to the problem at that particular psi. Haven't figured out if the cannisters are really doing anything positive for mountain riding. May be better for road riding thru the moguls, etc. Still learning. I did roll my sled over one time at the lower pressure and maybe that contributed. I know I was really surprised that it would roll so easy in that particular situation. Just my experience. I can't remember if there was any thing in this thread about rear pressures, but know there's been many ,so thought I'd throw this in as a FYI. This past weekend a friend of mine was up hill-climbing with his M7 turbo and couldn't make it over the top of one of the hills. So he decided to boost his rear psi from 145 to 155 to see what affect that would have and he went on up over the hill. Another example of what higher psi can do for the steep and deep.
 
Thanks Mr. BB.

I have my front shocks at 55 lbs now with the Fett Brother's canisters. I hope that's enough air?

The rear I bumped up to 110 from 100. Maybe I should go higher yet?

One camp says low and one camp say to go hi on air pressures. :face-icon-small-dis

I think Cat recommends a 135-145 PSI in the rear shocks?
 
Get the biggest canister you can buy for thr rear. It needs it more than the fronts.

In rear air shock in stock position uses only half the travel so to speak. 150 psi uses the first half and 110 psi uses the last half. That is why there is a difference in opinion. Ride high or ride low. Softer middle spring and riding low doesnt trench and is a better trail ride.

Float 2 seal cap helps. Cap and canister even better. Cap, canister, high flow pistons with valving, even better. Cap, canister, high flow piston and valving, and using more shock travel through a relocate, even better.

The limitations of the finite volume causing exponential spring rate with the air shock really shows when you go through the changes above step by step.

I think that is why Fox came up with the Evol R, LOL. Holz uses it in his skid ( which is real close to the AC skid). Maybe one year AC will offer it as an extra option. Anyone listening out east.

Geo
 
Thank you Geo.

Based on what you said above, particularly the quote below.

"Softer middle spring and riding low doesnt trench and is a better trail ride".

To me that means maybe I should stay with 100-110 in the rear shock and maybe lower my Zero Pro spring to maybe 1/4 of the way up the shock?
 
PowerJoe, I agree.

The only time I think I like the mod is on the trail too and from the real riding.

I was riding in some crusty snow and when I would turn ther ski would break through the snow and slam the ski to the inside of the spindle about ripping my arms off several times.

I think it's time to take Sledjims advice and go to a fixed narrow ski stance.
Crusty snow and ripping the bars out of your hands is a powder pro trait, not a sno pro spring problem. I love my powder pros 80% of the time, the other 20% I hate them for that very reason. I just bought a set of straight line tracking bottoms for them and I think it will be the best of both worlds.
 
I think that it is so funny that the same mod on very simalar set ups can feel so differant to everyone.I have simmons on my 06 M7 162 and I have no problem laying over that sled in the wide stance, and I love the sno pro mod. Boondocking and side hills not any noticable differance but in the trees and the trails I feel that it is a big help for me. Love it.
Hope you find that perfect setup for your sled and your rideing style.
Have fun, be safe and snow snow snow.
 
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