hey guys i just got myself a new 2012 assault and took it out last week and i did not like my stock track, it wasn't too bad at the hard pack snow at the parking lot but as i went up to the mountains playing in 2' powders, my sled just trenched as i climb up the mountains, so after reading few of the forums and order myself an 2.86 pitch 155x15 challenger extreme, so my question is...should i spend the money and get myself some 7 tooth non ratchet drivers and a set of anti stab kit, what is the benefits of it, and what is the difference of stock drivers to 7 tooth drivers. please help me out thanks a bunch
what are pros and cons for extroverts driver
- Thread starter D8rider
- Start date
7 tooth drivers will not work on pro , need 8 tooth.
advantage- can run looser track
disadvantage- need anti stab kit, be careful to cut rails back to limit strap holes, as you can stab your track even with wheel kit if your rails are to long.
advantage- can run looser track
disadvantage- need anti stab kit, be careful to cut rails back to limit strap holes, as you can stab your track even with wheel kit if your rails are to long.
You must cut a couple inchs off the front of the rails and install anti stab. The greatest benifit for the anti rachet drivers is you can loosen the track up, which free's up some horse power. If you lift your track off the ground and pull the track around and feel the effort you must use to move the track, then just loosen your track to hang just below the slides and give the track a pull you will be amazed at how easy it pulls around. If anyone does this it will be obvious what needs to happen. Call Avid they willl hook you up with a great set of drivers cut from a solid piece of plastic, not molded like the stock drivers.
Now time to get the Avid 7Tooth drivers installed. This was so much easier than the 8 tooth…. check out Coyote Girls build this is the only way to do this call fastrax
Both Coyoteegirls and Skadi's builds have this... Check out Skadi's build (With Photos of all these mods) in the Performance forum here on SnoWestOnline under the "member builds" section.
Curt and I came up with that inexpensive solution to running the 7 tooth on the PRO's last season...
Run the Avid Cat Style drivers just like Skadi did in her build.... trim the rails and add a good anti stab kit (I like the new one from Ice Age mfg with the billet wheels).
This is a great mod.. the extra clearance will free up some hp running that track... IMO.. the 2.5" tracks should all run a 7 tooth driver.
Don't belive any of the wives tales you may hear about running a loose track either... especially on a single ply track. Even with the extros... run close to factory tension if you want that track to preform to the best of it's abilities.
The only other thing is that the 7 tooth will lower your final drive ratio slightly... which may be a GOOD Thing.
If you want a diff track... Do these mods and dont look back!!
.
Curt and I came up with that inexpensive solution to running the 7 tooth on the PRO's last season...
Run the Avid Cat Style drivers just like Skadi did in her build.... trim the rails and add a good anti stab kit (I like the new one from Ice Age mfg with the billet wheels).
This is a great mod.. the extra clearance will free up some hp running that track... IMO.. the 2.5" tracks should all run a 7 tooth driver.
Don't belive any of the wives tales you may hear about running a loose track either... especially on a single ply track. Even with the extros... run close to factory tension if you want that track to preform to the best of it's abilities.
The only other thing is that the 7 tooth will lower your final drive ratio slightly... which may be a GOOD Thing.
If you want a diff track... Do these mods and dont look back!!
.
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Do you think trimming the rails and the anti stab are a must and why?
I am having the chaincase and drivers done at fastrax for my CE and Curt never mentioned either
Thanks
MM
I am having the chaincase and drivers done at fastrax for my CE and Curt never mentioned either
Thanks
MM
Yep... you must trim the rails otherwise the "teeth" of the extro, which are now in line with the rails, will crash into the tips.
The anti stab is excellent insurance against issues with stabbing, and the track rolls easier than without it as the suspension cycles through its travel...You can run just the rail caps... but I like the extra assurance/features of the anti stab
Easy to do... the Anti Stab kit replaces the limiter strap cross-shaft on the rails... not much weight added and easy to do.
Curt probably assumed you knew this already.
.
The anti stab is excellent insurance against issues with stabbing, and the track rolls easier than without it as the suspension cycles through its travel...You can run just the rail caps... but I like the extra assurance/features of the anti stab
Easy to do... the Anti Stab kit replaces the limiter strap cross-shaft on the rails... not much weight added and easy to do.
Curt probably assumed you knew this already.
.
Militia, if your new chaincase is dropped and rolled forward you may have enough clearance for your stock rails. But if the chaincase is in the stock location you definitely need to cut your rails, they will run into your new drivers. and if you cut your rails you need to add the anti stab kit so your track doesn't catch on the front of your cut rails.
Thanks for the info. I left a message with Curt to call me Monday, so I guess I will know his plans then. I don't have the DnR, I'm doing the modified chain case to install the 7 tooth drivers to give me extra clearance or evacuation on my 2.5 CE.
I'll check all this with curt Monday and see if he was trimming rails and about the Antistab kit.
MM
I'll check all this with curt Monday and see if he was trimming rails and about the Antistab kit.
MM
The chaincase on the PRO RMK's has part of the oil sump that sticks into the tunnel... If you shrink the size of the driver (which is what gives you more clearance) .... the track comes into contact with this sump... You need to cut out the corner of the case that will rub on the track and weld in a cover over the hole flush with the inside of the tunnel.
The case would need to be removed for this.
FTX has a core/exchange program for this.
On the 2012's you have to use heat to de-bond the case.
On all 11's and 12's.. I highly recommend that the case be bonded to the bulkhead upon reassembly.
Check out skadi's (Emily's) build in the "members build" section
CLICK HERE!!!
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The case would need to be removed for this.
FTX has a core/exchange program for this.
On the 2012's you have to use heat to de-bond the case.
On all 11's and 12's.. I highly recommend that the case be bonded to the bulkhead upon reassembly.
Check out skadi's (Emily's) build in the "members build" section
CLICK HERE!!!
.
P
pura vida
Well-known member
sorry, honestly not trying to be an a-hole, but this is pretty much completely wrong. a number of threads on this. completely different turning a track by hand and turning a track with 150hp through clutches, chaincase, and drivers. i've run both combo and standard involute drivers. if you run your track with the proper tension extroverts, imo, are completely unnecessary. i ride in heavy wet snow a lot and have zero ratcheting issues. good luck.
pv
hey guys thanks for info I'm still learning and seeing what i need, mountainhorse i can't find this chain case you mention on the ftx website. I'm posting up a pic of the driver so i know for sure i'll need to notch out the chain case...so my plan so far. 2.86 pitch avid drivers, anti stab kit, and possibly chain case, if its necessary, thanks for all your help guys
I don't know how I missed that one Pura...
I agree with you and have preached proper tension will let the track perform better than a loose track (I cant count how many posts I've made on this).
I'm not a fan of the center extro driver that is stock on the sled either.
COMBO Drivers...especially the new ones though do not have drawbacks that I can see ... the only time the teeth are engaged is when the track looses grip on the involute nubs..
This is a moot point if you want decent clearance with a 2.5" paddle track.. heck the 2.4" track (actually 2.3) hardly has adequit clearance... there are no 7 tooth involute drivers out there.
The 7 tooth approach is a solid way to free up some hp.
I know that your dealership is keen on introverts only and has had Avid build his new involte 8 tooth drivers for them... but I believe there is more than one way to cook an egg.
RUN PROPER TENSION and you will not enjoy better performance from your track. Loose tracks simply do not perform as well.
My 2 cents.
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I agree with you and have preached proper tension will let the track perform better than a loose track (I cant count how many posts I've made on this).
I'm not a fan of the center extro driver that is stock on the sled either.
COMBO Drivers...especially the new ones though do not have drawbacks that I can see ... the only time the teeth are engaged is when the track looses grip on the involute nubs..
This is a moot point if you want decent clearance with a 2.5" paddle track.. heck the 2.4" track (actually 2.3) hardly has adequit clearance... there are no 7 tooth involute drivers out there.
The 7 tooth approach is a solid way to free up some hp.
I know that your dealership is keen on introverts only and has had Avid build his new involte 8 tooth drivers for them... but I believe there is more than one way to cook an egg.
RUN PROPER TENSION and you will not enjoy better performance from your track. Loose tracks simply do not perform as well.
My 2 cents.
.
D8... Look at Skadi's build and copy what she did.
Not everything is on websites... call FTX on monday.
Good luck with your build!!
Not everything is on websites... call FTX on monday.
Good luck with your build!!
Not to be an a-hole but your wrong. To prove my point just get your track off the ground with proper tension hand advance the track, now loosen the track (which you are able to do with the extroverts) and feel the difference in the amount of force it requires to advance the track with it loose. So if it takes less effort to move the track obviously you are freeing up some horsepower for track speed. It is true if you have the proper tension you wont rachet, but not my point. Thanks for calling me out but you missed the point of my post.
MH I agree when you loosen a track too much there is no good that comes from this. But if you loosen the track to hang the drive nubs just below the slides you get the relief you need. Loosening it to say 2 " wont free up anymore HP than just letting it hang just below the slides.
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