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Welding throttle bodies

C

catmanm7

Well-known member
Quick question, but I have one of my barbs stripped out that go to be BOV. Can I plug weld the t.bodies.

I am assuming they are cast aluminum. Just make sure to keep the inside clean, but anyone have any objections??
 
Yep,

I drilled out the bottems, had to weld up my mistake, (I do that a lot lol) welds pretty clean for cast.
 
thanks

Ya, I just have been welding aluminum lately with the turbo install and figured i could just throw a couple tacks on there and fill it in. My barbed fitting has 10-32 threads, the smallest I could find, so I think I messed the threads up when I tapped it. That is my last air leak.

Someone mentioned the helicoil, but I am not set up for that. I will check on prices, but I think welding will be easier.

Did you preheat the cast a little before welding or just weld it.
 
intakes

catmanm7

what about dilling it out to the next size barbed fitting and retapping it.. you should still be able to get the same sized barb but just a larger thread in base...

aluminum has to be peheated prior to welding
 
Ya, I just have been welding aluminum lately with the turbo install and figured i could just throw a couple tacks on there and fill it in. My barbed fitting has 10-32 threads, the smallest I could find, so I think I messed the threads up when I tapped it. That is my last air leak.

Someone mentioned the helicoil, but I am not set up for that. I will check on prices, but I think welding will be easier.

Did you preheat the cast a little before welding or just weld it.


I just got a puddle going until it cleaned up with the tig. Didn't pull the assemble apart so I did not want to toss to much heat into it.

You should post some pics of this monkey
 
Monkey?

What monkey are you wanting pics of? The sled or t.bodies....
Also, I had a hard time finding the barbed fittings as is, I am not sure what would be the next size up, but it is a tight area. I drilled them in the same location as boondocker does, I think bigair had pics on a thread somewhere. But it is another option, I havent normally heated regular aluminum before welding, seems to do alright. But the cast may be different, I also dont want to take everything apart, so a couple spot welds may be good enough for me.
 
What monkey are you wanting pics of? The sled or t.bodies....
Also, I had a hard time finding the barbed fittings as is, I am not sure what would be the next size up, but it is a tight area. I drilled them in the same location as boondocker does, I think bigair had pics on a thread somewhere. But it is another option, I havent normally heated regular aluminum before welding, seems to do alright. But the cast may be different, I also dont want to take everything apart, so a couple spot welds may be good enough for me.



A pic of your boosted sled or any other monkey you got,

On mine after I seen there was no room for the barb coming out the bottem of the boss on the TB I welded the holes and drilled and tapped it on the side of the boss





double-standards-wish-i-was-a-monkey-monkey-funny-pictures-1282960910.jpg
 
barbed fitting and the monkey

i never ever wanted to be a monkey ---now it sort of intrigues me..:face-icon-small-ton

catman i called all over too looking for fittings and the best place was a hydraulic hose place....zillions of em...all sizes dont know where your at but here in calgary the place is called greenline....they have slightly larger bases with very small barbed fittings....just dont want to see a piece of weld let go and get sucked up into the intake...nfg for motors
 
thanks guys

I would plug weld from the outside, and I dont think there is a chance of anything getting sucked threw. Hell all my aluminum welds have held up so far....
Pics...
1227002055.jpg

010201162201.jpg
[/IMG]
Last pic is before turbo install, but everything is the same except for exhaust out the side and of course turbo under the hood.
There are pictures in the members build section. Sled is complete and have rode it multiple time with turbo. 8lbs is awesome, but I am trying to figure out why my fuel box is turned all the way up just to get the a/f ratio in range.
Build http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243337
 
Last edited:
I would plug weld from the outside, and I dont think there is a chance of anything getting sucked threw. Hell all my aluminum welds have held up so far....
Pics...
1227002055.jpg

010201162201.jpg
[/IMG]
Last pic is before turbo install, but everything is the same except for exhaust out the side and of course turbo under the hood.
There are pictures in the members build section. Sled is complete and have rode it multiple time with turbo. 8lbs is awesome, but I am trying to figure out why my fuel box is turned all the way up just to get the a/f ratio in range.
Build http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243337
if you dont trust welding it, you can use either 3m panel adhesive or lords adhesive(what they use to glue a polaris pro bulkhead togeather) either will put it in place as good as weld will....
 
I would plug weld from the outside, and I dont think there is a chance of anything getting sucked threw. Hell all my aluminum welds have held up so far....
Pics...
1227002055.jpg

010201162201.jpg
[/IMG]
Last pic is before turbo install, but everything is the same except for exhaust out the side and of course turbo under the hood.
There are pictures in the members build section. Sled is complete and have rode it multiple time with turbo. 8lbs is awesome, but I am trying to figure out why my fuel box is turned all the way up just to get the a/f ratio in range.
Build http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243337


Cool..........

Wow you have put a lot of work into her.......


You have a rising rate regulator on it?
 
Along with what AKSNOWRIDER said....I have seen JB Weld fix a lot of things. I even heard of a guy that ripped the running board off his pickup and reattached it with JB Weld. Keep using the running board like normal and it never came loose.
 
Any polaris dealer can get it..its what is used to glue the pro and rush sleds togeather..the 3m 8115 panel adhesive is what most car manufacturers use to assemble the bodies on cars and trucks..most any auto store can get it....both will glue both steel and aluminum togeather..
 
glue

aksnowrider

why would they want to glue a pro and a rush together..lol :face-icon-small-con now i want some..might glue my cousins yamahas together when were in revy..let em sit overnight...man would that be funny...lol
 
aksnowrider

why would they want to glue a pro and a rush together..lol :face-icon-small-con now i want some..might glue my cousins yamahas together when were in revy..let em sit overnight...man would that be funny...lol
thats how the bulkheads are put togeather, stronger, lighter, and easy to repair..heat to 400* and it comes apart.....on the new pro they say you can change 1/2 the bulkhead start to finish in a few hrs...instead of days on a normal welded /rivited /bolted bulkhead...its also considerable stronger as well..and lighter..
when I did my tunnel reinforcements on my dragon I used 8115 as well as solid rivits to attach with..makes the peices like 1..very very strong...(see avatar pic)
 
I think aluminum welds tend to be weak points so that is another reason for the glue.

I have a holley 2:1 regulator. I have my PL box almost maxed out on the grn/blue setting. It runs real good a WOT but shouldnt have to max the box out. If this final air leak will not solve the problem then the box may need to be set up to run richer or maybe turn the fuel pressure up. I am at 42psi right now. I spent all winter putting the thing together and tearing it apart. Sled has less then 150 miles on motor right now. Lots of work, but fun as hell to ride. Still few things here and there to do. I should be welding it tonight and then see what happens.
 
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