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Weird Sounds

Hello, I have a 2007 RMK 600 with 6818 miles on it. I wanted to know if anybody could tell me what could cause a weird grinding/squeling/racheting noise from my clutch side. My buddy thinks its a lower jackshaft bearing but I wanted an opinion from someone else. The clutch was rebuilt 1-2k ago (the guy i baught it from, and only the primary). I changed the belt because it was due and I hoped that would make it stop, it only got worse after about 10 miles of powder riding/carving.

Thanks,
Brad

(P.S.- I need to find some type of snow prefilter for my hood vents, pm me or comment in the tread if you know where i can get some. Also looking for hps can, new/used if you got em pm me )
 
Uh oh, doesn't sound good. Grinding or squealing sounds like a bearing to me, at least without hearing it. When you pull the engine over slowly or rotate the clutch by hand can you hear it? One trick to use is the screwdriver trick - hold the metal end to the suspected area and put your ear to the handle. Sounds corney, but you can hear the vibrations better than way. :face-icon-small-blu

My buddies 03 had a rattle from the engine. Turned out the crank had actually broken. You could rotate the primary and hear the clack, clack of the play in teh crank. Nothing like that?
 
Uh oh, doesn't sound good. Grinding or squealing sounds like a bearing to me, at least without hearing it. When you pull the engine over slowly or rotate the clutch by hand can you hear it? One trick to use is the screwdriver trick - hold the metal end to the suspected area and put your ear to the handle. Sounds corney, but you can hear the vibrations better than way. :face-icon-small-blu

My buddies 03 had a rattle from the engine. Turned out the crank had actually broken. You could rotate the primary and hear the clack, clack of the play in teh crank. Nothing like that?

I haven't truly diagnosed it yet. I work for an auto repair shop so we have a more sophisticated tool to replace the screw driver. Its a little microphone if the stethoscope can't hear it lol. I know its not the crank because its got about 800 miles on it but i have rotated the primary and there is no noise from the primary. The reason my dad and I have come up with the lower jackshaft bearing is because of the miles
 
3 nuts to remove the cover and you will see if it is the lower driveshaft bearing which it probably is. Or tilt it on side and see if the driveshaft moves by hand.
 
3 nuts to remove the cover and you will see if it is the lower driveshaft bearing which it probably is. Or tilt it on side and see if the driveshaft moves by hand.

Now on the cover, should there be a greece fitting? If so mine doesnt have one, I just assumed because of the lack of fitting it was a sealed bearing. All I know is that bearings are alot cheaper than clutches (I first thought the secondary was dying). Now this bearing, would this be something that my local polaris dealer would have or would it have to be special ordered ( I live in a good spot, 3 dealers with-in an hour's drive. I have Trackside in Eagle River, Wi; Iron Mountain Powersports in Iron Mountain, Mi; and Headwaters Polaris in Watersmeet, Mi.) Thanks

Brad
 
Mine hasn't got one either. It's wierd because there is a sticker that says to lube it too. I've heard this before though, it is a sealed bearing by all accounts.
 
Had near the same weird noise, only would do it when moving under load. The primary was not on tight enough, put a wrench on to take off the clutch the bolt was like finger tight (good on yeah there dealer). Tighted it up and noise is gone so far.
 
The threads above are about two different things. There is a bearing behind the secondary clutch that is not greaseable on the 2007. It is on the jackshaft. There is also a bearing on the end of the drive axle which is below the secondary (where the speedo cable goes in) which is greaseable. Both should be checked, with that number of miles one or both could be suspect and could very likely be where your problem lies. Replacing one or both of these now will save you a ton of headaches and possible collateral damage to other items if they are left to fail.
 
The threads above are about two different things. There is a bearing behind the secondary clutch that is not greaseable on the 2007. It is on the jackshaft. There is also a bearing on the end of the drive axle which is below the secondary (where the speedo cable goes in) which is greaseable. Both should be checked, with that number of miles one or both could be suspect and could very likely be where your problem lies. Replacing one or both of these now will save you a ton of headaches and possible collateral damage to other items if they are left to fail.
When do you recommend them to be replaced on a normal use sled?
 
The threads above are about two different things. There is a bearing behind the secondary clutch that is not greaseable on the 2007. It is on the jackshaft. There is also a bearing on the end of the drive axle which is below the secondary (where the speedo cable goes in) which is greaseable. Both should be checked, with that number of miles one or both could be suspect and could very likely be where your problem lies. Replacing one or both of these now will save you a ton of headaches and possible collateral damage to other items if they are left to fail.

That is not entirely true, my bearing BELOW my secondary is non-greaseable. I looked all around the cap and there is no place for a grease fitting thread into. I don't know if anybody else is having this problem but mine is a 2007 model, my dad's 2006 FST Classic and my previous 2006 FST Switchback had greaceable bearing on the drive axle. Every sled other than mine and my cousin's 2007 Shift are greaceable.
 
The threads above are about two different things. There is a bearing behind the secondary clutch that is not greaseable on the 2007. It is on the jackshaft. There is also a bearing on the end of the drive axle which is below the secondary (where the speedo cable goes in) which is greaseable. Both should be checked, with that number of miles one or both could be suspect and could very likely be where your problem lies. Replacing one or both of these now will save you a ton of headaches and possible collateral damage to other items if they are left to fail.


How much is an extimated guess on the parts? I am going to do all the labor myself to save some money as I can use my father's auto repair shop for tools/air/ect....
 
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