weird rich/flooding condition, need help pls.

[RBSDriver]

the microfiche part looks like a zip type. I think i have some really thin small ones laying around i may just use that then than buy ones that are relatively the same thing.

One thing I notice on my carbs is the big long needle that going up and down with the throttle slide is in the all the way down position. Position 1 I guess it would be. I did not see any other notches for other positions on it unless i was just not looking hard enough but the 95 specs calls for position 3 and 1/1/8 out on the air screw. My needle being in position 1 could this have caused damage to my main jet or needle?

And stock setting is 1/1/8 and that seems to flood like a pig, it seems to run much better now and my air screw is about 2/1/4 out

Man I hate 2 stroke carbs!!!

 

[ak]

Nope it wouldnt damage any thing being in position 1. There should be some adjustment on the needle did you remove it from the slide?

 

[RBSDriver]

No but should i remove it and change it back to the factory 3 position? Which will richen it even more?

 

[ak]

Make shure its the stock needle. Then go out and run the sled at half throttle for a while, shut it off and read the plugs.

 

[RBSDriver]

ok, got the sled out today to test it out after I adjusted both carbs back to factory specs and leaving the 420 mains in both. I ran the sled for about an hour and a half with no problems. Had lots of power and was not running rich, stalling or lacking top or bottom end.

until.... I was on my way back and I stopped about 1/4 mile from the lot to color some snow and as soon as i let it idle for about a minute it stalled! It would idle around 1500-1800 no problem before this forever... It started back up again but noticed right away it seemed to want to stallout if i didn't keep on the throttle a little at idle and also noticed immediately it lacked top end power. It would only hit around 6000 rpm and do around 40mph (same problems I was having before i re-adjusted everything). I also forgot to throw a zip type around the valve bellows so the PTO one has a small pool of oil under it again but the MAG side is dry and not leaking.... I'll have to fix that tomorrow..

When i originally replaced the needles i cleaned the carbs since there was some varnish in them from the sled sitting or a year or so. Does it sound like there still may be some junk in there that just got sucked back in and clogged something again? Or can this be replated to the PTO valve leaking? Even though i think that is just seeping some oil cause it's missing the zip type clamps on the outer bellow ends. Or does it sound like something else?

 

[ak]

did you replace a plug after it stalled out? was it fouled? your rave wouldnt be the problem.

 

[RBSDriver]

No i didn't have to replace a plug it started back up without having to replace or remove plugs. After I got it back to the lot i pulled plugs to read them and the PTO is a nice chocolate brown but not really any carbon on it and the MAG is lighter in color possibly a lean plug but if i try and richen the MAG side it runs like major crap then

 

[RBSDriver]

I think i'm just gonna take it down the road to Team CC tommorow and have those guys work it out. I'm tired of F*&&ng with these damn carbs. I'm sure if all they have to do is adjustments and maybe a cleaning it can't hurt the bank too much...

thanks for all your help and suggestions!

 

[Summit8]

I've got a 95 Summit 583, bought it cherry used, in 02, 3500 mi. on it, for my boy, ran good for a season or 2, then started flooding out, Big John gave me the jetting info and what lines to plug to get rid of the HAC. Works much better, still wants to flood in the mtns., when parking on a slope. There are some float issues on the RV motors, been awhile, BJ, and a few other Doo techs on here could give you the skinny on it if you can catch them on sometime.
I believe all the RV motors stagger the jetting, sound like you are rich, adj. needles would help also.
When you check your plug color, are you holding your throttle at half or full for a good 1/4 mi. or more, killing motor, and maintaining throttle position till you stop?
I fought a fouling cyl. today, thought I was gonna burn down my mag cyl. again. Just turned out that the carb vent line that goes to the airbox had slid off and that carb was venting to underhood atmosphere, suprised the he!! out of me that that's what caused that plug to foul out intermitently, then completely. Saw hose was off carb, plugged it back in, motor ran like a raped ape the rest of the day.
My setup is DPM junked, carbs vented to airbox (Xtreme Perf. carb setup f/ 02 carbs) Jack Harris Power-Jets, 1/4" carb spacers, Carbon-Tech reeds.

Let us know what the techs find out on your setup, hope they fix ya up.

 

[H20SKE]

I would check the pickup bracket for the coil on the flywheel. Especially on the 95--there is a updated bracket for the pickup. It will seem to run fine--and then it will drop a cylinder or two by not firing at the right time and flood out the plug or plugs. I fought this for the netter part of a season before I figured that one out.

H20SKE...

 

[RBSDriver]

hmmm... i'll look into that one! I looked at my piston wash and the MAG piston is burning much more than the PTO on MAG side it is almost close to lean looking through the rave port at the top of the cyl. on PTO side it's balck as black on the entire piston and the PTO plug is much darker and brown in color than the MAG side. But I'm pretty sure both pistons are firing, maybe a timing thing possibly if it's not the carbs

 

[RBSDriver]

I would check the pickup bracket for the coil on the flywheel. Especially on the 95--there is a updated bracket for the pickup. It will seem to run fine--and then it will drop a cylinder or two by not firing at the right time and flood out the plug or plugs. I fought this for the netter part of a season before I figured that one out.

H20SKE...

Shop is booked solid until the 30th! So I took both carbs off again and gave them a cleaning of a lifetime hoping for a little luck. Reinstalled and set air screw to fact spec 1/1/8 turn out from bottom. Sled starts fine but falls on it's face at low rpm and pops alot at low and it has to be feathered to increase rpm but then will open up.

Maybe it's dropping a cyl? It pops a lot at low rpm like it's missing now How can i check for sure if it's loosing a cyl? I felt each side of the y pipe after a few minutes of running and the mag side was just warm but the pro side of the y was hot enough to burn your hand.

 

[RBSDriver]

I probably should have checked plug gap before but i thought they were pre-gapped. Anyway the gap is suppose to be .45 and the plugs i have are all around .30 . I'm hoping pick up some new plugs tommorow gap them correctly and solve this whole damn problem once and for-all. It may be a shot in the dark but I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

 

[NoSecondChances]

Sounds like you are loosing a cylinder due to spark not flooding. With the stock HAC on and stock pipe, 370's are lean IMO. Sounds like the spark is going away, not flooding. The big black pool of black carbon deposits are a big giveaway that you have a rich cylinder, unburned fuel will wash the piston and RAVE valve of all its carbon and deposit it into the drain hole in the RAVE valve, then it leaks out the bottom. You probably have a blown gasket on the back of the RAVE valve, or torn bellows.

The fact that it runs well and then stops sounds more like spark than fuel related. Check coils and plug wires as well.

 

[sledsrock]

Plug gap...........

NGK BR9ES plug gapped .018 -.020............oh, and never believe they are pregapped. Always check and gap accordingly.