Ways to make my 1M more carvable

[fishtank]

So my sled is an 03 1M 900 with a 162x16 track, drop brackets and a tunnel that sits really high. I find my sled really hard to carve on flat/downhill terrain.

Over the last few days I rode an 04 1M 900 with a 159x15 track, no drop brackets and a tunnel that sits super low, maybe 6-8 inches lower than mine.

This 04 that I rode was a piece of piss to throw around and carve in.

Im trying to work out what is so different about my sled and how to make mine easier to carve.

Do you think the height of the tunnel would have anything to do with this? Im thinking of removing the drop brackets and just going back to the stock location for a while. From the pics below, can I just remove the brackets and add some new idler wheels where that top bearing is located?

I also think that maybe the 16" wide track has something to do with it. I also rode a skidoo rev 141 which had a 16" wide track and found that quite tough (considering its track length) to carve as well.

Would a 1" wider track really make THAT much difference?

Im also thinking of setting the stance narrower for the front skis, do you think that would have much of an effect on tipping the sled from side to side?

Any other hints or tips? Should I loosen off the front rear suspension so I have more ski pressure?

 

[1Mike900]

When you say the '04 was a piece of p--- to throw around, do you mean it was better or worse than yours? Narrower stance and lightened up a bit up front may help? Do you have handle bar riser? Forward post etc... The 16 wide may hinder being a 162 but not really. Basically your body is too far back on the machines should be forward more.

Mike

 

[powdercrav]

lose some weight on the front end and try the wildchild steering post conversion, put a riser on thats a comfortable height......depends how much you weight too.

 

[snailbait]

Narrow up the ski width...btw, what skis are you running?
The 16" is definitely harder to pull over....more so than you would think.
Handlebar risers will help too.
You don't need the bearing on the bottom of the drop bracket...get rid of it.

 

[diggerdown]

I'm not trying to be critical but I believe you are probably going about it the wrong way. I have the same set-up and have no problems carving or turning back up hill. You need to keep forward and counter steer then hit the throttle. They will not carve like a M or Dragon but you can still bring them around with no problem, just more sweat!

 

[Reeb]

Get rid of the drop brackets and install small wheels.
Put the handlebars in a comfortable position(forward mount is the best option)
Throw on a pair of SLP Powder Pro's and do the Carl's Mod.
The sled will fall over for you at a moments notice.

Rider experience counts for lots too like mentioned in an above post.

 

[1Mike900]

If you have the parabolic skis cut the outer back half off like a Carl's mod. Leave the inside for spray on the track and a little more floatation. The PP skiis will work much better! There's many places to reduce weight. Be sure to grind the right hand steering stop down for a tighter turning radius in that direction. The '03's were notorious for the improperly welded stop on the R. side. Mike

 

[akmodshop]

Your all wrong. LOL Give it more power and and less wieght and everything becomes easier. LOL

For real, the 16" track doesn't help, put a 2 wheel conversion on the rear axle, the stock skis suck, and it does take a lot of motor to turn that big of track and hold a carve. I got a couple 990 top ends that will defiantly help get that track speed up. You could also gear it down more, and change the clutching, but those possibilities are endless.

 

[1Mike900]

Yes a 2 wheel kit and a 15" track with BHP and a weight reduction will help! But for others that don't have the time or money to throw into an old sled don't expect much if you do one or two things! You have to do it from front to back just like Mfg'rs coming out with a whole new chassis. Even the M series had slow improvements throughout it's life span to make it better, but now it is at the end of the line. Just remember the 1M is frontend heavy and needs lightening.

 

[fishtank]

When you say the '04 was a piece of p--- to throw around, do you mean it was better or worse than yours? Narrower stance and lightened up a bit up front may help? Do you have handle bar riser? Forward post etc... The 16 wide may hinder being a 162 but not really. Basically your body is too far back on the machines should be forward more.

Mike

Thanks for the suggestions.

What do you all mean by lightening up the front? Reducing weight or applying less ski pressure up front?

When I say a piece of p*** I mean its heaps easier to roll over and carve. I know how to carve and counter steer, my point is Im finding it way easier to do this on the 04 (friends sled) than on the 03 (my sled).

Im trying to figure out whats so different between the two. The 04 has the stock post and the 03 already has the wildchild front post. The 04 does have a few inch riser and the 03 doesnt so maybe thats something that will help. Id have to extend the throttle cable and all the other electrics as they are already at their limit.

I just changed over from some C&A Pro something skis to some M series stock skis and thats already made a world of difference.

I am looking at cheapest mods first so I am thinking of narrowing the ski stance and removing the drop brackets as a start and see how that goes.

Next would be a 2 wheel kit and maybe risers. Ill let you know how it goes, gotta repair some other things first though!

 

[diggerdown]

Is your sled an 03' or 02 1/2'? The 2 1/2" models were definatly harder to handle and heavier. Easy way to tell is if the chaincase hangs below the belly pan and is exposed it is the 1/2 year model, also the running boards will have just little dots on it instead of the raised cross slit nobs. Rear skid is also different.

 

[MT rydn]

look for Rixter's posts on this. good explanations for handling differences and yes 04 1M carves very nice. better than king same year, also.

 

[PowderCrew]

So, the one difference between you and your buddys 'o4 was the drop brackets. Where are HIS bars set? HIS skis? To answer your question... YES, that makes yours HARDER to lay over. DROPS dont seem to have as big an influence in deep pow. You said "carving going downhill and flat terrain". Drop brackets ADD down pressure to the front end (which would be multiplied going downhill)... but benefit by lifting the rear in deep snow. Lose the drop brackets, move both skis in as far as they'll go, pivot your handlebars forward and try it again. This you can all do without spending money.

On a side note: why the bearings on your drop brackets. The lugs wont clear the tunnel w/ idler wheels?

FYI: I have a "double drop" set up on mine that while affecting the scissor arm... works very well for me. I have no issues laying the sled over. There is a call for the rider to be AGGRESSIVE when pullin the 900 cat over.

 

[Reeb]

Risers before a 2 wheel kit!!!!!! I can't stress that enough!

 

[PowderCrew]

Risers before a 2 wheel kit!!!!!! I can't stress that enough!

...and PIVOT RISERS at that. Will help ya get forward...

 

[HANDSOME]

You need to get rid of those drop brackets but you need the bearing to hold the track high enough to clear those aluminum suspension arms because it is 16 wide. Keep the 16 wide track and go with a 2 wheel kit in the back.That is all you need to do .

 

[fishtank]

Is your sled an 03' or 02 1/2'? The 2 1/2" models were definatly harder to handle and heavier. Easy way to tell is if the chaincase hangs below the belly pan and is exposed it is the 1/2 year model, also the running boards will have just little dots on it instead of the raised cross slit nobs. Rear skid is also different.

Its got the drop and roll. The manufacture date was Oct 03.

 

[fishtank]

So, the one difference between you and your buddys 'o4 was the drop brackets. Where are HIS bars set? HIS skis? To answer your question... YES, that makes yours HARDER to lay over. DROPS dont seem to have as big an influence in deep pow. You said "carving going downhill and flat terrain". Drop brackets ADD down pressure to the front end (which would be multiplied going downhill)... but benefit by lifting the rear in deep snow. Lose the drop brackets, move both skis in as far as they'll go, pivot your handlebars forward and try it again. This you can all do without spending money.

On a side note: why the bearings on your drop brackets. The lugs wont clear the tunnel w/ idler wheels?

FYI: I have a "double drop" set up on mine that while affecting the scissor arm... works very well for me. I have no issues laying the sled over. There is a call for the rider to be AGGRESSIVE when pullin the 900 cat over.

The 04 doesnt have drop brackets, just idler wheels in place of the top set of bearings you see in the pic. So the tunnel sits much lower. The 04 has maybe a 3-4 inch riser off a stock post, so the bars sit way further back than mine which has the wildchild post. The 04 just seems "lighter" and easier to lay over, even with the bars sitting a good 3 inches back from where mine sit and maybe 1 or 2 inches higher.

Not sure why they are bearings there, it just came like that but if I remove the drop brackets ill need a set of idler wheels to clear the rear scissor arm suspension from the track.