trying figure out way the coolers are not getting warm?on the running boards? started motor ran it for a while and felt the coolers and they are not warm, sled got up to 180 I shut it down.took thermostat out and tried it again nothing same thing.and the coolant hose going into the thermostat was not even hot. the head was really hot. pulled hose off from front of thermostat and ran motor no water pumping out? so I pulled motor to see if water pump was bad. to see if it was not turning. got it out and there is nothing wrong with it.the propeller was turning just fine?not sure what else to check seeing got the motor out? I also ran a air hose thru the lines from coolant bottle hose and there is nothing in there fluid came out just fine. and I can blow air thru the head also and there is nothing plugged there. what to do next put it back in? and try again. and info that you might have for me to check would help. thanks
water pump?
- Thread starter river
- Start date
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bustamove
Active member
yup like sw said. did you have the engine out before this happened? or did it just start to happen?
I just got my engine back in late last night I had a similar problem, coolant wasn't cycling. I made a rookie mistake and left the coolant cap on(do'h)/.
anyways, when refilling with coolant, fill coolant bottle up to the rim, then crack the bleed screw on the thermostat housing until you no longer hear a hiss or see coolant coming out.,(you will probably have to fill the coolant bottle up again). Then ideally you need to lift the front of the sled up, i didn't have the means to do it so i just called my larger neighbor over to sit on the back while i lean the sled over from side to side(to get the air bubble out of the back cooler as it sits pretty high).
Then i started the sled, and the coolant dropped once again in the bottle(refill to the almost the rim). also when running LEAVE CAP OFF!!, or eles it won't properly "burp". Again you want the nose up while running to get air out. I didn't have the luxury so again guy on back. I Hope this helps.
I just got my engine back in late last night I had a similar problem, coolant wasn't cycling. I made a rookie mistake and left the coolant cap on(do'h)/.
anyways, when refilling with coolant, fill coolant bottle up to the rim, then crack the bleed screw on the thermostat housing until you no longer hear a hiss or see coolant coming out.,(you will probably have to fill the coolant bottle up again). Then ideally you need to lift the front of the sled up, i didn't have the means to do it so i just called my larger neighbor over to sit on the back while i lean the sled over from side to side(to get the air bubble out of the back cooler as it sits pretty high).
Then i started the sled, and the coolant dropped once again in the bottle(refill to the almost the rim). also when running LEAVE CAP OFF!!, or eles it won't properly "burp". Again you want the nose up while running to get air out. I didn't have the luxury so again guy on back. I Hope this helps.
yes had the motor out.put new motor mounts in. and put back in.took it out again to make sure the water pump was working. and it is turning when I turn the motor over had someone try to hold the propeller to see if it would slip and it did not. put it back in and yes I raise the front up on a jack. took the thermostat out this is the best way to bleed it.and had the cap off to bleed. then put the thermostat back in. and still the cooler do not get warm. do your side coolers get warm by the runner boards? I also when I had it out took the air compressor and blew out all hose lines to make sure every thing was open and air and coolant came out. also did this with the head to make sure it was open.I can see straight thur the head as I have the slp head on it. still the cooler on the side do not get warm. not sure what is going on yet.sure seems that the coolers would get warm? the only other thing I was thinking about doing is taking the hose off where the thermostat goes in with the thermostat out. and see if the coolant is pumping thru? its going to make a mess doing this.it should be pumping out coolant if not ,something got to be plugged.
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How to remove water pump shaft and change bearings
Hoping someone can help. I dropped a skirt on my 700 and filings everywhere so redoing bottom end as well. While I have it apart I want to change the bearings on the water pump shaft. A buddy is doing the rebuild but we don't know how to get the shaft out. A little stiff to roll by hand and bearings seem a little noisy so want to change. Too much money into it to not do this as well.
Hoping someone can help. I dropped a skirt on my 700 and filings everywhere so redoing bottom end as well. While I have it apart I want to change the bearings on the water pump shaft. A buddy is doing the rebuild but we don't know how to get the shaft out. A little stiff to roll by hand and bearings seem a little noisy so want to change. Too much money into it to not do this as well.
The two hardest parts with taking the cross shaft out in order of difficulty are 1. removing the seal and 2. putting in the new seal.
To remove the seal, I started with a screw driver and then went to pliers/vice grips. It gets ruined in the process of removal (some claim to have removed without destroying it but I don't know how).
To put the seal back in, I used a socket about the size of the seal to move it in and alternated back and forth between the inside part (on the shaft and the outside part (into the engine). Before installing, compress it to see how much movement you have before having to alternate.
To remove the seal, I started with a screw driver and then went to pliers/vice grips. It gets ruined in the process of removal (some claim to have removed without destroying it but I don't know how).
To put the seal back in, I used a socket about the size of the seal to move it in and alternated back and forth between the inside part (on the shaft and the outside part (into the engine). Before installing, compress it to see how much movement you have before having to alternate.
Thanks. So is the seal behind the impeller? Then do you need to press out the shaft and bearings? I tried calling to order bearings and sal but they want numbers off the bearings. Polaris dealership isn't open so can't call to check with them Neil Monday.
Yes; the seal is behind the impeller. Just look at an online parts fiche to get the part numbers for the seals (water/oil) and bearings.
The water seal is the 1st one and the difficult one, then there is an oil seal and a ring clip. Once you get the ring clip out, the shaft comes out easily. I've never changed the bearings but I suspect you will need to pull them off/push them on.
The water seal is the 1st one and the difficult one, then there is an oil seal and a ring clip. Once you get the ring clip out, the shaft comes out easily. I've never changed the bearings but I suspect you will need to pull them off/push them on.
The coolant setup on these sleds suck... if you don't want to do a rad delete then I would suggest the rad and heat exchangers in a series.... Danduval shared this with me and I'll share with you.
With this setup my 900 ran pretty consistentlty around 120° regardless of snow conditions.
Parts... 2- 90° (gray) pvc barbed elbows (3/4 or 1" ...I forget)
4- good ss hose clamps
Remove... pipe, right side chassis brace. And drain coolant.
You will see 2 hoses coming out of front radiator. A hose coming from thermostat neck on top of the motor and 1 hose that's behind the chassis brace going down under the engine.
Remove the Y fitting that's in the hose coming from the thermostat.
Using the plastic elbows... connect one of the hoses from the radiator to the thermostat hose. And the other rad hose to the hose going under the engine. Doesn't matter which rad hose goes where. Just don't hook the thermostat hose directly to the hose that goes under the engine ( that routing would be for the front radiator delete). Now your coolant will be FORCED to go through the front radiator. Trimming of the factory hoses is necessary in order to get everything to fit neatly . Don't forget to bleed the cooling system when you're done. Hope this helps
I forgot to mention.... there's another hose coming from the front & middle of the coolant reservoir.... that hose gets removed from the system . And. cut it short, re install it on the reservoir and put a plastic barbed plug in it. Or you can get a reservoir from a newer 800 that doesn't have the front hose fitting on it.
With this setup my 900 ran pretty consistentlty around 120° regardless of snow conditions.
Parts... 2- 90° (gray) pvc barbed elbows (3/4 or 1" ...I forget)
4- good ss hose clamps
Remove... pipe, right side chassis brace. And drain coolant.
You will see 2 hoses coming out of front radiator. A hose coming from thermostat neck on top of the motor and 1 hose that's behind the chassis brace going down under the engine.
Remove the Y fitting that's in the hose coming from the thermostat.
Using the plastic elbows... connect one of the hoses from the radiator to the thermostat hose. And the other rad hose to the hose going under the engine. Doesn't matter which rad hose goes where. Just don't hook the thermostat hose directly to the hose that goes under the engine ( that routing would be for the front radiator delete). Now your coolant will be FORCED to go through the front radiator. Trimming of the factory hoses is necessary in order to get everything to fit neatly . Don't forget to bleed the cooling system when you're done. Hope this helps
I forgot to mention.... there's another hose coming from the front & middle of the coolant reservoir.... that hose gets removed from the system . And. cut it short, re install it on the reservoir and put a plastic barbed plug in it. Or you can get a reservoir from a newer 800 that doesn't have the front hose fitting on it.
