Alright guys heres the scoop. I talked to the local dealer in town about doing a water pump belt on my 01 800. They told me it would cost around 250.00 plus the belt. But he also said Ive never heard of one going out so you should probably just save your money. I'm 16 and I was wondering if you guys think I would be able to do it myself? I have already pulled the motor to change the steering post as well as tare the carbs all the way down for cleaning and needle adjusting. Will I be able to do this task? thanks for all the input.
water pump belt
- Thread starter hfinger2
- Start date
Also I know im in dieyer need of a new track, last night i counted and on the left side alone im missing 10 to 12 paddels. will I notice a huge difference with a new track on climbing and sidehilling or just an difference?
Water Pump Belt
On the big blocks you remove the two bolts that hold the oil pump on, swing it out of the way, remove the 5 or so bolts that hold the recvoil on and the belt is right there. It just slides off the front water pump pulley.
Put the new one on the same way you took the other off and you are good to go.
When you put the oil pump on you need to align the shafts for the male/flemale ends to engage correctly.
I would replace the recoil rope while you have the recoil off. Sure beats having it break on the trail. Pull the rope all the way out, lock the pulley in place with a large c-clamp or c-clamp vise grip, pull the rope out thought the pulley and tie the new rope to the old one to aid in getting it threaded through. Tie the know well, apply some heat to the know and frayed end with a propane torch and you are good to go.
On the big blocks you remove the two bolts that hold the oil pump on, swing it out of the way, remove the 5 or so bolts that hold the recvoil on and the belt is right there. It just slides off the front water pump pulley.
Put the new one on the same way you took the other off and you are good to go.
When you put the oil pump on you need to align the shafts for the male/flemale ends to engage correctly.
I would replace the recoil rope while you have the recoil off. Sure beats having it break on the trail. Pull the rope all the way out, lock the pulley in place with a large c-clamp or c-clamp vise grip, pull the rope out thought the pulley and tie the new rope to the old one to aid in getting it threaded through. Tie the know well, apply some heat to the know and frayed end with a propane torch and you are good to go.
I wish I could charge that much for a belt R&R (there steeling you blind) spend your money on a new track ....
ok sounds easy enough. the reason I ask is the mechanic was standing next to him saying somthing about having to pull the brakes and all this stuff sounds like the polaris shop doesn't know much around here
Pull the brakes?
You have to pull the pipe off, that's likes like 2 minutes 32 seconds.
I've replaced water pump belts on the mountain... carry one in my tool kit.
And he's full of crap if he's never heard of one going out. It's a service item in the Polaris manual.
sled_guy
You have to pull the pipe off, that's likes like 2 minutes 32 seconds.
I've replaced water pump belts on the mountain... carry one in my tool kit.
And he's full of crap if he's never heard of one going out. It's a service item in the Polaris manual.
sled_guy
ya thats what I thought. sad thing is i'm not stretchin the truth at all either
Thanks, What do you guys think about the track probelm should I do a topend at 3400 cause im there or worry about the track first?
I ride deep snow hardly any trail alot of boondocking and climbing
I ride deep snow hardly any trail alot of boondocking and climbing
Can't believe a dealer told you that BS. Its an easy job and by what I read it seems that you have some mechanical inclination... certainly enough to change a belt.
Analyze the current condition of the motor and go from there. If you think it'll hold up than spend the money on a track... BTW what is the track length?
Do a compression check and measure the crank run out. The big blocks had issues with the cases getting out of round where the pto bearings sit causing a catastrophic failure eventually. I don't think it was as big of an issue with the non-ves motors but still its something that should be addressed.
Analyze the current condition of the motor and go from there. If you think it'll hold up than spend the money on a track... BTW what is the track length?
Do a compression check and measure the crank run out. The big blocks had issues with the cases getting out of round where the pto bearings sit causing a catastrophic failure eventually. I don't think it was as big of an issue with the non-ves motors but still its something that should be addressed.
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track length is 151
I figure they are both in the same boat it hasn't had a top end that I know of
The sled runs good but it just seems kinda like somthing is missing you know that nice getty up
toward the end of the season ill probably do crank bearings and such.
I figure they are both in the same boat it hasn't had a top end that I know of
The sled runs good but it just seems kinda like somthing is missing you know that nice getty up
toward the end of the season ill probably do crank bearings and such.
Oh Yea another problem I'm having is every time I go ride the guage thing drops further away from f and closer to e and the oil seems low is there anything I can do about this haha
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