I want to revalve my shocks or get some new ones to try my pro rmk without the sway bar. It's not that I have any trouble laying it over or shredding mean sidehills. It's the most nimble sled ever. I just want to try it. Is there anyone doing a revalve or any shocks made to run a rmk without a sway bar?
Want to revalve my shocks or get new ones to run without a sway bar. Any advice?
- Thread starter Destroyer
- Start date
IMO just take the bolt out and zip tie it to the a arm and just try it as is.
I bought a quick disconnect for mine, and to be honest i leave it disconcted at all times.
Theres all this talk about how the sled will suck on the trail with the sway bar disconnected, the sled sucks anyways on the trail, i actually found i LIKE it more with it disconnected becasue i find it cushions more in turns verse wanting to tip up on one ski in corners.
the pro is easy to throw around, take the sway bar out and it is WAY easier IMO.
I didnt revalve or put different shocks on. This is on a 12 pro
I have read on this site if your disconnect your sway bar or use your mountain bar, you don't how to ride. I guess I don't know how to ride then. You might trying backing off on your front coil overs.
A
Arcteryx
Well-known member
Pretty sure its Zbroz. I rode with a friend yesterday that had them. He got them from Zbroz and said it was around $200.
I have read on this site if your disconnect your sway bar or use your mountain bar, you don't how to ride. I guess I don't know how to ride then. You might trying backing off on your front coil overs.
I just want to try it. There's a few things that I like about a sled without a sway bar. I can dangle with this sled the way it is, but I want to try it. I'm going to try Zbros and see what they have to offer. If anyone has any suggestions let me know.
its all about personal preference, anyone who claims differently is full of it. Try it without the bar, if you like it or it seems just a little too soft then have them re-valved. If you have some money you just want to spend then go get an aftermarket set and just sell the stockers.
I took my sway bar out and swapped the front springs with the assault springs (30# heavier springs). For me weighing 155-160 with full gear on, it was quite a bit to stiff up front for me, felt like the sway bar was still in and didn't suck any woops up in the front what so ever (I wonder how much that had to do with the assault a arms being longer, thus putting more leverage to the springs, my Pro a arms being shorter would put less leverage to them I would assume making them quite stiff). I put the stock springs back in but we haven't got any snow to go try it out. Figure I'll try this and see if it even needs a revalve based on if it compresses to fast or slow.
So, I have an Assault and thus can't weigh in on how a proride is with a sway bar, but here's what I found on mine...
I have the springs backed off, and had the clickers a couple clicks from softest, and when I had the sled rolled up on edge and hit a bump it would much more easily toss the sled back down flat. Then I decided to go the other extreme and put the clickers to 2 clicks from stiffest, a little test riding and ended up at 3 from stiffest. Long story short, the sled was a tiny bit harder to roll up on edge, but it stayed there through bumps way better.
There is something to that whole theory of needing stiffer shocks if you don't have a sway bar. I'm not that good of a rider, and I found this to be true.
I have the springs backed off, and had the clickers a couple clicks from softest, and when I had the sled rolled up on edge and hit a bump it would much more easily toss the sled back down flat. Then I decided to go the other extreme and put the clickers to 2 clicks from stiffest, a little test riding and ended up at 3 from stiffest. Long story short, the sled was a tiny bit harder to roll up on edge, but it stayed there through bumps way better.
There is something to that whole theory of needing stiffer shocks if you don't have a sway bar. I'm not that good of a rider, and I found this to be true.
Pulling the swaybar effectively removes spring force on each shock when on edge.
NOT a matter of revalve alone.... need stiffer springs
AND... More importantly.. need to know the diff between a "squatted" front shock and truly getting the sled on edge...
Lots of threads on this.
If you add spring force... you change the rebound rate... if the rebound is too fast for this change... you will not get the control from your sled that it is capable of.
NOT a matter of revalve alone.... need stiffer springs
AND... More importantly.. need to know the diff between a "squatted" front shock and truly getting the sled on edge...
Lots of threads on this.
If you add spring force... you change the rebound rate... if the rebound is too fast for this change... you will not get the control from your sled that it is capable of.
Good advice on the spring force. I know the difference between getting the sled on edge and squatting it out.
Go to 2:54 on this little home made vid. I just want to try it without the sway bar and figured I would probably need more rebound dampening.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C2n59cGhWY
I DON'T MISS THE CAT ONE BIT!!!!!!
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