Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

VForce 3R VS Boyesen Reeds

AKFULLTHROTTLE

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Thought I would share some pictures comparing the two.

DISCLAIMER:
These are Polaris Part number 1205059 designed for the 800 HO Axys. In theory you would need the Polaris Manifold Part# 1205058 to run these in your 11-15 Polaris 800. I am not and will see how they work with a turbo.

For a direct fit for 11-15 use Vforce Part# V3132R-873F-2

The boyesen's are in Polaris cages with less than 200 miles on a 13' Pro with a turbo. The stock petals lasted about 800 miles (sorta). Trying the new 3R reeds with hopes of longer life and better performance. See how the petals are longer than the Vforce.

The are now being used in the Polaris HO engine and mine came in a Polaris box with a Polaris part number.






 
Last edited:
The reeds you have look like the ones off of a 800ho. They have a rubber seal it looks like. The 3r reeds I have came with two gaskets for each reed assembly.

image.jpg
These are the reeds I have. Wonder why it says "except Axys Chassis"??
 
For the axys ones to work you need the intake boot as well that includes the stuffers molded in.

The reason the other ones will not work on the axys is because of the integrated reed stuffers on the axys intake manifold.
 
Ok, so your using the 800ho reeds in your 2013? Just curious because there is purpose built 3r reeds for the 11-15 800cfi.

They are the same reeds with the exception of the stuffers. I think Polaris wanted ones that don't need gaskets and Vforce also wanted to make a set thats backwards compatible on the older sleds
 
Slightly off topic, but on. I plan on taking a look at the current status of my reeds this week on a 2013 Pro Silber 2013 kit. Any gaskets that need replacing or anything I should know during that process? I didn't install the kit, so I have not removed anything from the back side of the engine or any polaris ever for that matter. Virgin territory for this guy :)

Cheers
Shawn
 
You can remove the reeds by taking the tank off and going through the back. No need to take the turbo assembly off. I would plan on having new reeds available.
 
The Polaris Part# 1205059 x2, has a O-ring style seal for Polaris and do not have the sir guides as the Polaris manifold has them built it. Many people remove these, especially on modded sleds to remove restriction (not sure if there is any proof). Hoping they will work just find for mine!
 
Interesting info on removing the stuffers?

So this is pretty far off topic lol, hoping someone has some experience.

I am going through this with my carls 910, had vforce2 and spacer. I have a set of vforce3 with stuffer? (white insert inside), should i remove the stuffer and use the spacer aswell?
 
You can remove the reeds by taking the tank off and going through the back. No need to take the turbo assembly off. I would plan on having new reeds available.

Thanks Cory,

Anything I should know about removing the fuel tank? Any special tools or anything?

Cheers
Shawn
 
Thanks Cory,

Anything I should know about removing the fuel tank? Any special tools or anything?

Cheers
Shawn

What year is your sled... 10mm for seat, 10mm for gas tank after removing hood and dash panel. 12 under you need fuel line removal tool, 13 up you dont.
 
What year is your sled... 10mm for seat, 10mm for gas tank after removing hood and dash panel. 12 under you need fuel line removal tool, 13 up you dont.

2013 .... is there just no way of getting at it from the clutch side with the secondary off? I currently have the belt, belt guard, oil tank, secondary, intake boost black thing from the kit, hood, rear plastic near the knees all off. Starting getting into after a Packer game yesterday with just a few to many cold ones, but stopped there as I don't like to wrench and drink :)
 
2013 .... is there just no way of getting at it from the clutch side with the secondary off? I currently have the belt, belt guard, oil tank, secondary, intake boost black thing from the kit, hood, rear plastic near the knees all off. Starting getting into after a Packer game yesterday with just a few to many cold ones, but stopped there as I don't like to wrench and drink :)

Well you have everything I would take off except the tank :face-icon-small-hap

I take off the tank, very easy and makes life sooooo much better. Once you unbolt the tank there is one connection for the fuel pump and two fuel lines. You just pull the clips half way out and pull the line off, very simple.
 
Last edited:
Well you have everything I would take off except the tank :face-icon-small-hap

I take off the tank, very easy and makes life sooooo much better. Once you unbolt the tank there is one connection for the fuel pump and two fuel lines. You just pull the clips half way out and pull the line off, very simple.
I got the two clip out connectors out. Is the line that connects to the tee and run down to the secondary rails suppose to disconnect from the tank via pushing the white clip together or do I have to unscrew it from the rail?
 
Got them out, what are your thoughts? These are out of a 2013 Pro RMK Silber with about 1400 Miles. The first 700 miles where 9 PSI at or above 7500 ft. Boost was turned up to 11 at one time between 700 miles and 980 and kept there for a couple days rides at similar elevation. When I bought the sled, boost ranged from 7 - 12 from 1000 ft to 11,000ft. I would say the average was 8 PSI at 9 - 10 k up to 1400 miles. I did see 12 psi a couple times. What really interests me is how three of the mag side top case peddles don't seat.

Cheers
Shawn

IMG_2222[1].jpg IMG_2223[1].jpg IMG_2224[1].jpg
 
Premium Features



Back
Top