used pro rmk
- Thread starter chralle
- Start date
Check for signs of damage by the tunnel footwells
look for loose/bent/cracked paint on a arms
Grab primary and check motor mounts for slop and wear
Inspect Quick drive belt and sprockets for damage or wobble
I would verify recalls were done or get them done
Goodluck, Pro's are great sleds!
look for loose/bent/cracked paint on a arms
Grab primary and check motor mounts for slop and wear
Inspect Quick drive belt and sprockets for damage or wobble
I would verify recalls were done or get them done
Goodluck, Pro's are great sleds!
Known tunnel weakness;
The tunnel below and rearward from secondary clutch and same spot on the QD side rearward of bearing plate, by foot loops (stirrups) for deformation.
Known bearing fitment (read assembly QC) issues at the upper QD bearing; Grab the upper QD Sprocket and see if you can move it (up, down, and side to side) it should not move at all.
Known bearing fitment issues at the Drive shaft plain end (under driven clutch);
The aluminum plain end should be a press fit but seems most of them were not, a lot have worn to a point you can see a visible gap between the shaft end and the inner race. Some have shown better than a 1/16" gap in under 500 miles. If there is a gap get the shaft replaced on warranty.
Check the fitment / amount of glue visible at the A-arm connections.
Make sure that the drive shaft got the clamp installed.
From memory those are the big ones.
And of course the more normal ones
The tunnel below and rearward from secondary clutch and same spot on the QD side rearward of bearing plate, by foot loops (stirrups) for deformation.
Known bearing fitment (read assembly QC) issues at the upper QD bearing; Grab the upper QD Sprocket and see if you can move it (up, down, and side to side) it should not move at all.
Known bearing fitment issues at the Drive shaft plain end (under driven clutch);
The aluminum plain end should be a press fit but seems most of them were not, a lot have worn to a point you can see a visible gap between the shaft end and the inner race. Some have shown better than a 1/16" gap in under 500 miles. If there is a gap get the shaft replaced on warranty.
Check the fitment / amount of glue visible at the A-arm connections.
Make sure that the drive shaft got the clamp installed.
From memory those are the big ones.
And of course the more normal ones
Just know going in what the thing could cost you. If an a-arm comes apart, you will most likely not get a free replacement. If you blow the first QD belt, they will usually replace it with the stronger '14 version.
The second year warranty is usually drivetrain only and is usually not a Polaris warranty. If it was a late season sale, you could be on the more comprehensive first year Polaris warranty still. Today I was quoted $1000 to extend my '13's warranty another year. I will let it expire on 1/3/14 instead.
I am going to turn up my oiler, install my gratis '14 QD belt and keep an eye on those a-arms. I am not a jumper so my tunnel should be OK.
BTW, the Pro is the best snowmobile I have ever ridden. Even flawed I would take it over anything else on the market today.
The second year warranty is usually drivetrain only and is usually not a Polaris warranty. If it was a late season sale, you could be on the more comprehensive first year Polaris warranty still. Today I was quoted $1000 to extend my '13's warranty another year. I will let it expire on 1/3/14 instead.
I am going to turn up my oiler, install my gratis '14 QD belt and keep an eye on those a-arms. I am not a jumper so my tunnel should be OK.
BTW, the Pro is the best snowmobile I have ever ridden. Even flawed I would take it over anything else on the market today.
Great
Thanks for the info guys and girls, now I feel much more confident on what to look for.
haha yeah i wish we had us prices here in sweden.
a little comparison a brand new pro rmk here in sweden costs 139:000 SEK
ore 21,589 USD
139000 / 6,43 = 21,589
the one Im currently lookin at is att 110000SEK ore 17,084 Usd
Anyhow Thanks for all the input
/Christoffer
Thanks for the info guys and girls, now I feel much more confident on what to look for.
haha yeah i wish we had us prices here in sweden.
a little comparison a brand new pro rmk here in sweden costs 139:000 SEK
ore 21,589 USD
139000 / 6,43 = 21,589
the one Im currently lookin at is att 110000SEK ore 17,084 Usd
Anyhow Thanks for all the input
/Christoffer
