0W-whatever full synthetic diesel oil and 03 mxz reeds seem to last longer and have a thicker boot. I would also make a better adapter that drains the oil from the turbo to the oil tank, this need to be as big as you can get it. The the CPI adapter is quite restrictive. How is your run on compared to stock, I seem to have a second or of run on that takes some getting used to.
Here is a little info from CPI
As promised:
If this is any indication of their customer service, I am impressed! Less than a day for this response.
Hi,
>
> I was just looking at the 800 turbo kit on your website. I just had a few
> quick questions on it.
>
>1) Do you lower the compression with this kit?
> 2)What range of boost can you run?
> 3)What type of fuel do you have to run?
> 4)How solid is the install? (how would it withstand taking a tumble down
> the
> hill?)
> 5)How much weight does the kit add?
> 6)How much adjustment is required for fuel? (once the kit is tuned in, is
> a
> person constantly jetting?)
> 7)Does DPM still work?
> 8)What regular maintenance would you say is necessary with this kit? (eg.
> pistons every 500miles??) Reeds??
> 9)I heard that the issue with 2 strokes and turbos was heat buildup (only
> one
> dedicated exhaust cycle) Is this true, and how does this kit
> eliminate/manage this problem?
> 10)What does the kit consist of? (pipe, turbo, oil system, auxillary fuel
> delivery???)
> 11)Do you have any dealers in Canada? If not, any idea how much to ship a
> kit
> up?
>
> Any other info you could share on the kit would be truly appreciated.
> There
> are a tonne of questions being asked about it on Dootalk.com and
> snowest.com. I will be sure to post any information you provide if you
> would like.
>
> Dean Bala
> Account Manager
> Wetaskiwin Branch
> 780 361-5200 ext304
1) Yes, 2) 9lbs to how brave are you? 3) We run avgas 4) You could spill the
resevoir oil all over the sled but that's all 5) 8 lbs. 7)It can't think
about it the DPM works off negative air pressure. Which is now positive.
I have attached some more info.
We do lower our compression to 125 lbs. Cranking
I usually run 9 lbs. Of boost, which will produce over 200 horsepower, on occasion we would go up to 13 lbs. Which brings 250 hp. Remember higher boost requires better fuel, and on the rev higher boost without clutch changes will only cause the engine to hit the rev limiter.
We usually run avgas if you want to run higher boost it will require race gas. We have also brought it home on premium fuel, because it's all we could get on the trail. We did richen the power jets and did not wring it out too much.
In a tumble, you would probably loose the reservoir oil, but that's pretty much it. You may want to carry some with you in case.
This kit adds 8 lbs to the sled.
With much change in altitude or 20 degrees of temp change you would want to adjust the power jets. The lag time increases, as it gets too rich. If you don't work on your own sled, or don't think you can jet very well, a turbo is not for you.
The dpm works off of the vacuum from the carburetor belts; this has been replaced by positive air pressure. It could not work.
This much horsepower will shorten the life of all drive train components. The chain seems to be one of the greater wear items. Good synthetic oil will lengthen chain life. Reeds will go out every 6 to 700 miles. Evidence of a lazy bottom end, when that happens, the edges of the reeds are getting frayed. While you are thinking about it I'll answer that question too. We have tried all after market reeds none wear any longer, and several much shorter than the stock ones. We have a machine we have run 1250 miles so far on the original pistons.
The answer to question 9 is really nothing, there are some things that work to our benefit, and rev ignitions go through three stages of retard, two degrees each. The last occurs at 8200 RPM, so we have set up the system to run at 8200 rpm, which allows more boost with less heat. Second our turbo is liquid cooled and we use a cold air intake, which lowers the intake temp a great deal, which is a deterrent to detonation. Last revs generate 360 watts of electricity, which allows you to run an electric fuel pump constantly. Eliminating switches, capacitors, and wiring, ect. To activate the pump under boost. If our pump doesn't run neither does the machine. In the old days malfunctions always melted the pistons. However the tuning of the machine is entirely in the hands of the rider, if you aren't a tuner, you could have problems every time you ride! That is also why there is no warrantee expressed or implied.
The kit consists of: pipe, turbo, muffler cold air intake, charge tube, pressure box with power jets mounted, boost and fuel pressure gauges. Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, oil pump, and reservoir. All connecting tubes, hose and wiring. You need to supply main jets and clutch parts. (Usually 6 grams more weight in the drive clutch will do the trick.)
We do have several dealers in Canada if there is not one close to you we could send it directly to you.
