Turbo Reed Set Up volume 3
- Thread starter BigAir
- Start date
Boyesen Rad Valve
Been running Boyesen Rad valve setup in my M1000 turbos for 3 years, had issues with their boot clamps breaking first, upgraded the clamps, then had the boots still blowing and use a stainless plumbing clamp that wraps around the boost completely and that made them last a season but still saw leakage and eventually rubber would fatigue and tear. Finally used their cage but milled off the inlet flange so the cage was flat, cut my stock reed stuffers off of the OEM boots (like we did with V-force), ported the inlet of the cage to match the boots and it works great. The reed setup is a stacked setup on a billet cage and never had much reed problem at all. This was on a M1000 running 10-12 lbs and on a 1200 running same. 2 sleds. Have a few sets of these and will not run the stock cages ever again. I had 2 cages actually break and cause internal damage before I went to this setup. The reed setups are Boyesens turbo stack. Have to order direct from Boyesen. At least you did 3 yrs ago. Have replaced only 1 set in all that time and only after blowing the first few boot setups.
Been running Boyesen Rad valve setup in my M1000 turbos for 3 years, had issues with their boot clamps breaking first, upgraded the clamps, then had the boots still blowing and use a stainless plumbing clamp that wraps around the boost completely and that made them last a season but still saw leakage and eventually rubber would fatigue and tear. Finally used their cage but milled off the inlet flange so the cage was flat, cut my stock reed stuffers off of the OEM boots (like we did with V-force), ported the inlet of the cage to match the boots and it works great. The reed setup is a stacked setup on a billet cage and never had much reed problem at all. This was on a M1000 running 10-12 lbs and on a 1200 running same. 2 sleds. Have a few sets of these and will not run the stock cages ever again. I had 2 cages actually break and cause internal damage before I went to this setup. The reed setups are Boyesens turbo stack. Have to order direct from Boyesen. At least you did 3 yrs ago. Have replaced only 1 set in all that time and only after blowing the first few boot setups.
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bradburck
Well-known member
reeds
Just pulled and replaced the stock M8 reeds after 1500+ miles. One small chip on one corner of one reed otherwise perfect condition. Going to M1000 dual petal reeds again. Used them in the past and had GREAT luck with them. Had 800+ on my last set and where perfect condition when I pulled them. This is on an 09 pump gas 10k plus feet and 9ish lbs all day long. Guess I don't ride hard enough?? 3500+ miles on the sled now. Top end looked amazing as well, not a nick, not a scratch in the walls.
Guess I should probably knock on wood.
Just pulled and replaced the stock M8 reeds after 1500+ miles. One small chip on one corner of one reed otherwise perfect condition. Going to M1000 dual petal reeds again. Used them in the past and had GREAT luck with them. Had 800+ on my last set and where perfect condition when I pulled them. This is on an 09 pump gas 10k plus feet and 9ish lbs all day long. Guess I don't ride hard enough?? 3500+ miles on the sled now. Top end looked amazing as well, not a nick, not a scratch in the walls.
Guess I should probably knock on wood.
yup tdr, spit them out the pipe on the etech turbo kit they sent in under 4 miles at 3 psi.. JUNK ,, both the reeds and the kit. P O S
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bradburck
Well-known member
You know I've run both now and can't really tell much of a difference in the two. the 1000 reeds have never chipped on me. The MDS clutching has put me right where I want to be on the bottom end, I am willing to sacrifice a bit to keep the solid mid-range that I spend 90% of my time riding at. This is twice I've chipped 800 reeds and I never chipped a 1000 reed. I really feel they last longer. I know 1000-1500 miles is solid from a set of reeds, but I can get 1500-2000 out of a set of 1000 reeds. These sleds are just bullet proof, I love every minute of it!
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bradburck
Well-known member
Explain what you mean by "running"?
09 pump gas BD turbo. 9ish lbs. 3500+ miles on the sled now. Have the 2860 with coolant lines, etc. Using the stock pipe, stock BD intake, etc. I have MDS clutching with straight 36 helix and 046 belt.
For reeds I'm literally just using the stock cages with stock m1000 reeds now. I don't know why I don't have problems, just had really good luck I guess. both sets of 800 reeds I've used I got about 800-1000ish miles out of and both sets had one small chip in the corners of one set of petals. The 1000 reeds I pulled after over 900 miles and looked brand new. I usually don't check reeds unless I think something is going on. Didn't check once last winter and only did this winter as the throttle bodies had become a bit off kilter and rubbed a hole in a coolant line.
I have nothing special at all on my sled, don't know why mine holds up to the abuse and others don't. As I said before, lucky I guess. All the riding I do it 9000+ in feet.
09 pump gas BD turbo. 9ish lbs. 3500+ miles on the sled now. Have the 2860 with coolant lines, etc. Using the stock pipe, stock BD intake, etc. I have MDS clutching with straight 36 helix and 046 belt.
For reeds I'm literally just using the stock cages with stock m1000 reeds now. I don't know why I don't have problems, just had really good luck I guess. both sets of 800 reeds I've used I got about 800-1000ish miles out of and both sets had one small chip in the corners of one set of petals. The 1000 reeds I pulled after over 900 miles and looked brand new. I usually don't check reeds unless I think something is going on. Didn't check once last winter and only did this winter as the throttle bodies had become a bit off kilter and rubbed a hole in a coolant line.
I have nothing special at all on my sled, don't know why mine holds up to the abuse and others don't. As I said before, lucky I guess. All the riding I do it 9000+ in feet.
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bradburck
Well-known member
Don't run EGT's... so couldn't tell you temps, sled hasn't had EGT's on it from day one 4+ years and 3500+ miles and not one problem. My wash is great however. I just don't push the limits of the sled in terms of the motor.
I'd have to check intake temps again, but usually anywhere between 130-150. I've given the thought to putting a cold air on, but don't want to deal with putting a hole in my hood, or keeping the filter cleared. My sled is super vented up with the vent in front of the turbo inlet on the MAG side of the sled as well. Again man, nothing special, just ride the hell out of it and fix what breaks! My only problem has been keeping secondaries together.
I'd have to check intake temps again, but usually anywhere between 130-150. I've given the thought to putting a cold air on, but don't want to deal with putting a hole in my hood, or keeping the filter cleared. My sled is super vented up with the vent in front of the turbo inlet on the MAG side of the sled as well. Again man, nothing special, just ride the hell out of it and fix what breaks! My only problem has been keeping secondaries together.
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TheBreeze
Well-known member
Well, I believe I have finally found MY "holy grail" reed setup after many tries and a lot of sets of reeds..... lol.
M8 HO Boondocker Turbo
HO Reed cages, stock reed stops, HO reeds, with ZR style reeds on top, on the bottoms only. Great response, and reeds are LASTING for once.
M8 HO Boondocker Turbo
HO Reed cages, stock reed stops, HO reeds, with ZR style reeds on top, on the bottoms only. Great response, and reeds are LASTING for once.
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TheBreeze
Well-known member
Yep. Double stacked the bottoms only, with a non-ho/ZR reed as the outer reed.
So to recap.... stock HO cages reeds and stops, stops at stock height.
Non-HO/ZR reed stacked on the HO reed bottom only. Sweet compromise for response and durability.
I have tried virtually every combo of reeds, single stacked and double stacked, TDR blah blah blah.
I would love to see someone else with reed durability issues on the HO motor try this combo and provide feedback.
So to recap.... stock HO cages reeds and stops, stops at stock height.
Non-HO/ZR reed stacked on the HO reed bottom only. Sweet compromise for response and durability.
I have tried virtually every combo of reeds, single stacked and double stacked, TDR blah blah blah.
I would love to see someone else with reed durability issues on the HO motor try this combo and provide feedback.
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TheBreeze
Well-known member
Well, summer is here, but I'm still thinking sleds.
Update on my reed setup:
It made it a full season with no significant chipping, or loss of seal with the setup listed above.
Its pretty nice to finally have the confidence to run my sled for a full season without constant reed checks.
Now it is just a matter of keeping an eye on the reed boots, which may only be an issue due to non running a BOV on my setup.
Update on my reed setup:
It made it a full season with no significant chipping, or loss of seal with the setup listed above.
Its pretty nice to finally have the confidence to run my sled for a full season without constant reed checks.
Now it is just a matter of keeping an eye on the reed boots, which may only be an issue due to non running a BOV on my setup.
Im running four pedal single stack reeds with ovs extended stops 12lbs @10kft.
Awesome response, I never see anything over 95 deg charge temps wfo in over the hood pow. Egt's never over 1200F. About 1000 miles on them and looks great still.
Awesome response, I never see anything over 95 deg charge temps wfo in over the hood pow. Egt's never over 1200F. About 1000 miles on them and looks great still.
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