Turbo/Polaris Guru needed

[cb2honk]

I just purchased a 2008 dragon 800 with a boondocker turbo. I'm not familiar with polaris, i've only owned ski doo previously. Also, this is my first turbo, and know very little in tha area too. The guy i bought this sled from did a crappy job on the install. There are wires all over the place, connected and disconnected. The guy I bought it from was clueless. I'm good mechanically, just need to learn the ins and outs to this sled. I know i can figure out the EBC and Control Box, but I think somebody going through it with me would be better. I'm willing to pay, if you are a business or require it. I got a screaming good deal on this sled, and now I want it up to my standards!

Thank alot.

 

[tree climber]

what part of "western iowa" are you in

 

[cb2honk]

I'm 30miles north of council bluffs. I'm willing to drive a ways to get the help. I just don't want to have to drive across the country.

 

[ridgeclimber]

turbo help

I have the same machine with the BD turbo kit. I would suggest you go to BD's web site and print off the instructions for the install. Then just go through it step by step your self. The instructions are easy to follow. Then you will get familiar with it yourself. The only suggestion would be use lots of nylon ties and secure the electrical and hoses very well. Make sure they are not rubbing on anything or getting close to anything hot. As far as the electronic boost controller, I don't know anything about that. I still have the manual controller. Check the exhaust pipe that it has all the springs and the pipe is not cracked were the elbow was welded on for the turbo flange. Check the throttle body intake boot that is not blown. BD has a cover plate to help prevent it from blowing. The rest is pretty straight forward, I have installed two with no problems. Good luck.

 

[guidoxpress]

if you don't get someone locally to assist you...i would call Boondockers and have them email you an install sheet so you can go through it all that way and see whats suppose to be part of the turbo install and whats just hanging out...

glad to see you have standards...ive seen some pretty grotesque installs on stuff, lol..

 

[cb2honk]

I really cant beleive somebody would dump 8k(turbo, timbersled, track, drivers) into a sled and jerry rig everything together. I have the install instructions already printed out, but I feel there is more to learn by having someone familiar with this sled look at it, listen to it run, and walk me through certain things. I'm used to starting with a stock sled and doing the mods my self, and know what is going on with the sled. Right now this thing shakes at idle pretty good, and i don't know if it is normal or not? It idles at 2400, which i know is wrong. The guy said he could never get it to boost over 6lbs, I know that is not right. There are other things that I see, that don't look normal to me, but to a guy familiar with the sled might see it different, or visa versa.

 

[Jkinzer]

the polaris motors shake a lot at idel, but once given throttle they tighten up a lot. wouldnt hurt to check the front pto motor mount though and make sure its not broken as this is pretty common on these sleds. also if it is idling that high i can about promise that your throttle body boot is torn. how many miles are on the sled boosted? if its anywhere over 1500 i'd recommend pulling the top end and replacing the pistons and inspecting the cylinders and head.

 

[cb2honk]

I appreciate the help. the sled has 1600miles, 500 on updated pistons, and 900 total on boost. I already have on order: reeds, boots, brace/bracket for boots from BD, chaincase and cover(the guy broke a chain somehow, cracked the chaincase, and JBwelded the crack), hifax, turbo muffler. I would also like to order a wheel kit to save the hifax, but not sure what will work on ice age rails?

My biggest issue is going to be figuring out his wiring MESS! But it's early and I have time.

 

[cb2honk]

I also want to run different pistons, preferably a single ring turbo piston.

 

[ridgeclimber]

turbo help

I am sure your throttle body boot is blown. Mine did the same thing. The wiring is pretty much plug en play. Other then you have to splice into the throttle body position sensor if I remember correctly. I was able to put all of my wiring under the plastic cover for the ecm that holds the spare belt. I then mounted the BD control box on top of that cover. Do you have the mini inter cooler? What psi numbers are you running in the control box?

 

[cb2honk]

Your install is nice and clean. I don't know what numbers are in the box. I don't have the mini cooler. I am planning on running 8-9psi range. the guy mounted the control box on the bar riser, because he didn't install a boost gauge. I just picked this thing up on saturday and haven't had a chance to really tear into it yet. I need to get that 9v battery hookup plug so i can just sit and go through all the settings in the control box without the sled running.

 

[viperbusa]

Where are you at exactly? I live in the same area and have a couple friends with BD. I have installed 4 turbo kits myself, but they have been MCX and aerocharger kits. Going to do another aerocharger in a week or so. PM me and we can get together.

 

[cb2honk]

logan

 

[mountainhorse]

I think that some of the suggestions are on the mark...

Check the motor mount bolt and actually plan on replacing it, preferably with an ARP brand bolt.

See this link
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133819

I think that partially disassembling the sled is a good idea to put you on top of the situation.

Look over the non turbo IQ section (Browse it back to Feb to look for topical articles on your sled and problem areas)

Remove the seat, fuel tank, turbo and tank, exhaust etc.

Remove the electronics and do a "Clean install" paying particular attention to the BB installed resistor.

Set the TPS spot on, send in the Primary to Indy Specialties for a full service, remove and clean the exhaust valves using new base gaskets, clean the engine bay well, replace the clutch springs and all the other maint items so you know your sled is spot on.

Do a front suspension camber and toe adjustment and check all the rod ends and ball joints for play.

Remove the rear suspension from the sled... check all bolts for tightness, take it apart and clean and re-grease the cross shafts with new Redline CV-2 grease (or other synthetic that will not thicken at cold temps)... new Hyfax.

Remove all 4 shocks and send them in for service (now is the time)

Re install everything taking your time to do it right..........


THEN.......

Ride with someone who can check out your sled...

MY 2 cents.

 

[diamonddave]

the polaris motors shake a lot at idel, but once given throttle they tighten up a lot. wouldnt hurt to check the front pto motor mount though and make sure its not broken as this is pretty common on these sleds. also if it is idling that high i can about promise that your throttle body boot is torn. how many miles are on the sled boosted? if its anywhere over 1500 i'd recommend pulling the top end and replacing the pistons and inspecting the cylinders and head.

This is the best advice. And if the throttle body boots are torn, then this thing has been running too lean and for how long??? Who knows. If for very long, there will be lean damage.

Fuel injection can not/does not make up for a vaccum leak that is upstream of the throttle bodies. The ECM is programmed to watch throttle opening via the TPS and accounts for only the air coming in from the opening and closing of the throttle body butterflies. When upstream air leaks into the motor, more air than accounted for enters the engine. There is nothing in this sytem that will inject more fuel to offset the additional incoming air and the motor is then being run in a much more lean state.

Regardless, Teardown should be done anyway with this story.

 

[ridgeclimber]

blown throttle body boot

That's what I first thought when my boot was ripped. I ripped the engine down and it was ok. It is not necessarily running lean. Your just loosing boost. The BD box see's what little boost you are building and makes the fuel adjustment. That's as long as you your on boost. I guess if you are at idle or just off idle it would be lean. Mine was ok. I change the piston's anyways. It would be good piece of mind to inspect it.

 

[Spaarky]

Bring it up to Twister. He does the cleanest installs I have seen. He did a kit install for someone last year that was suppose to take 7 hours and it took him 30. Its not because he is slow or doesnt know what he is doing, that is just how maticulous he is.

He did a bunch of work last year, but he one was a redo on a OVS cat, that was cleaner than stock when he got done.

You are not that terrible far away. I would strongly recomend it. Then he can run it and test the system too. It would be well worth your money!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Silber]

Bring it up to Twister. He does the cleanest installs I have seen. He did a kit install for someone last year that was suppose to take 7 hours and it took him 30. Its not because he is slow or doesnt know what he is doing, that is just how maticulous he is.

He did a bunch of work last year, but he one was a redo on a OVS cat, that was cleaner than stock when he got done.

You are not that terrible far away. I would strongly recomend it. Then he can run it and test the system too. It would be well worth your money!!!!!!!!!!

I would recommend this also. Twister has been around enough of these turbos, that he will get it redone correctly.

Also he will be able to tune it in perfectly, he know what the engine should sound like under extra pressure.

Sounds like your not to far away from him also.

 

[diamonddave]

That's what I first thought when my boot was ripped. I ripped the engine down and it was ok. It is not necessarily running lean. Your just loosing boost. The BD box see's what little boost you are building and makes the fuel adjustment. That's as long as you your on boost. I guess if you are at idle or just off idle it would be lean. Mine was ok. I change the piston's anyways. It would be good piece of mind to inspect it.

With all due respect, this isn't correct. Anytime there is an air leak above the throttle body, the engine will be running in a lean state period. You are correct that the engine will not be able to attain maximum boost. But the boondocker box is NOT going to provide MORE fuel to an engine making LESS boost. When the pressure sensor sees less boost, the box is figuring the operator is just asking for less power. In this case, less fuel is added. LEAN


Now if an air leak is below or downstream of the throttle bodies, then your statement would be correct. The box increases fuel as boost increases but still does not compensate for an upstream leak. Your experience was most likely the result of quick diagnosis and repairs.


Even in closed loop fuel systems, upstream air leaks are not "fully" compensated for.