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Turbo Nytro: What are my choices??

christopher said:
Care to offer any SPECIFIC comments as to why "YOU" think that the MCX is a poor choice??

Or to point out any specific thread you think I should be reading up on this subject?
Click to expand...

I ran a MCX Nytro for 2 years. And yes this sled was built by the MCX distributor.

The first year it ran well.

The 2nd, Not so much. Pulled the header 4 diff. times to reweld. Very VERY big PITA.
Had to change head gasket from charge tube rubbing a hole in it.


Others have also had the same problems. MCX is notorious for these 2 problems. If you own an MCX nytro and havent had these problems, your time is coming. I did not want to get into this again, where there are some loyal MCX peeps on here that I like.
 
yup I had the header crack...the charge tube nope....fixed my header right the first time and it held all season. Theres enough info on here as I said....now they have been on the snow for 2 full seasons so you could do the few little things first and ride. Even with my header cracked it still pulled 10lbs boost and climbed like a billy goat:D Every kit made has issues....but I still think for pump gas and 12lbs or less boost the MCX is the most reliable out there....
 
08 Nytro with MCX 270 kit. 14 to 17 psi gas and go. Cracked header (found this summer) did not notice any performance issues. No gasket issues to speak of. A simple peice of aluminum fixes the issue anyway. Oh ya 4500 miles still running strong
 
Thistledoo said:
....but I still think for pump gas and 12lbs or less boost the MCX is the most reliable out there....
Click to expand...


That is probably the truth, 12# or less. When I turned mine up to 17 thats when I started having all the problems with the exhaust. I would agree that MCX is probably the best 12# and under kit. When it comes to 15# and up, not so much.


So theres your answer Christopher. You want a 12# kit or a 17# kit.
 
Durability??

Not sure where the concerns are with engine durability under boost. With proper fuel for the particular boost settings I'm wondering if there has ever been a failure of one of these that can be blamed on the engine alone. Other question is, how much less would it cost to turbo one of these if you decided on 200hp instead of 240-270?
Personally I'll take a Nytro with a properly installed turbo kit for durability over any 2stroke I've ever owned. Without boost they are just too lazy at the higher elevations.
 
ulmer racing is another choice.

http://www.ulmerracing.com/

FX Nytro Stage 1 Kit:
-5 lbs of boost 185 hp 91 octane fuel
-This will work in conjunction with the stock OEM muffler for those who want the utmost quietness!
-This system is limited by the stock muffler and stock fuel system to run a maximum of 5 lbs of boost.
-Power Commander fuel & ignition control
-GT28 series turbo
-Ceramic coated heat shields, header, down pipe, and turbo exhaust housing
-Includes a new 8.5 gallon trail tank (available in black or clear color)
-Includes clutching to harness the extra power.
-Includes boost & air/fuel ratio gauges & gauge holders.
Price is being aimed at that $4800 area!

FX Nytro Stage 2 Kit:
-7.5 lbs of boost 205 hp 91 octane fuel
-Excell motorsports exhaust muffler & plastic enclosure
-This system is limited to 7.5 lbs of boost on premium pump fuel. Adding race fuel will give you the ability to run 13 lbs of boost.
-Auxillary fuel pump & fuel pressure regulator
-Power Commander fuel & ignition control
-GT28 series turbo
-Ceramic coated heat shields, header, down pipe, and turbo exhaust housing
-Includes a new 8.5 gallon trail tank (availble in black or clear color)
-Includes clutching to harness the extra power.
-Includes boost & air/fuel ratio gauges & gauge holders.
Price is being aimed at that $5300 area!


​
 
Last edited by a moderator:
drinkwyo said:
Pulled the header 4 diff. times to reweld. Very VERY big PITA.
Had to change head gasket from charge tube rubbing a hole in it.

Others have also had the same problems. MCX is notorious for these 2 problems.
Click to expand...
THANK YOU.
That is exactly the kind of information I am looking for.

Question.
What would be the PRE-EMPTIVE action to take when first installing this to prevent it from ever happening???
 
christopher said:
THANK YOU.
That is exactly the kind of information I am looking for.

Question.
What would be the PRE-EMPTIVE action to take when first installing this to prevent it from ever happening???
Click to expand...


When running more boost like 15 to 17lbs it causes more heat.....causing it to crack faster. If you run 10 it will last longer. I feel if you run the tunnel dump it has more freedom to move around. I welded mine once and rode it for a 1000miles and its still fine.....
 
drinkwyo said:
So theres your answer Christopher. You want a 12# kit or a 17# kit.
Click to expand...

Reality check...

When would I ever "NEED" 17lbs of boost with this sled???

Other than serious vertical climbing, what would you use the extra power for besides just going faster?
 
Thistledoo said:
When running more boost like 15 to 17lbs it causes more heat.....causing it to crack faster. ..
Click to expand...
Wouldn't it be wise to beef this up PRIOR to installation by adding any needed extra metal to the welds that are known to fail before you install it the first time around?
 
<center>
navbar2.jpg
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nytroturbosystem.jpg

pumpgasgraphic.jpg

<table width="640" bgcolor="black" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td colspan="3"><hr width="635"></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="20">
</td> <td>[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]COST: $6775 USD[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="20">
</td> <td>[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]SYSTEM COMPONENTS[/SIZE][/FONT]

</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="20">
</td> <td width="370">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif] [/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif] [/FONT]</td> <td width="250" align="center" valign="top"></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="20">
</td> <td>[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=+1]OPTIONS[/SIZE][/FONT]

</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="20">
</td> <td colspan="2">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif] [/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif] [/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td>
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table width="640" bgcolor="black" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td colspan="3"><hr width="635"></td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]TURBOCHARGER
Garrett GT2860RS ball bearing turbo has rapid spooling and low backpressure. Capable of over 20 psi boost. Turbo mounts low in the chassis to keep your sleds center of gravity low. Mounted directly to the frame with a rubber support to keep stress off the header. The turbo is liquid cooled and oiled from the motor.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]TURBO SUPPORT
Rubber mount attaches turbo to frame giving the turbo extra support and reducing the stress on the header.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]HEADER
Fully TIG welded 321 stainless steel 3/16" thick wall 3 into 1 high flow shorty turbo manifold is specifically designed for immediate boost response and unsurpassed reliability on heat soaked full throttle mountain climbs. Complete with locking fasteners to keep header and turbo bolts from backing out.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]DOWNPIPE
2 1/4" stainless steel divorced port high flow downpipe exits into the tunnel. Includes sensor bung welded on for an air fuel gauge.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]INTERCOOLER
2 1/2" diameter 6061 intercooler piping exits the turbo and flows air into the stand up intercooler which is positioned to receive the best possible airflow through the stock hood.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]INTERCOOLER BRACE
Secures intercooler and throttle bodies at high boost pressures. Less wrenching, more riding.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]BLOW OFF VALVE
Tial 50mm Q series blow of valve keeps the turbo spooled up in on and off throttle situations. Highest flowing BOV on the market with 60% more airflow than the original design.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center" valign="top"></td><td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]HIGH FLOW FUEL SYSTEM
Climbing chutes all day is now a reality with 10+ gallons for fuel capacity that is routed through a front mount surge tank allowing it to be run down to the last 1/2 gallon without ever sputtering or running out. Includes a high flow fuel pump and regulator.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center" valign="top">
</td><td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]STANDALONE FUEL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
Developed exclusively for use with Impulse Turbo Systems this standalone fuel management system comes complete with injectors, fuel pump, regulator, 3 bar external barometric pressure sencor, 3 bar external boost pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, air intake sensor, wiring harness and ECU. Gas and go with no user adjustments required. No upgrades necessary to turn the boost up to 20 psi.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]FUEL TANK
Internally baffled aluminum fuel cell fits under the seat and fills from the back. Compatible with stock fuel pump and gauge.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]INTAKE
3" high flow cold air intake system with lightweight aluminum filter cage draws in air through the gas cap hole. Prefilter is included and available in blue, red or black.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="150" align="center"></td> <td width="470" valign="top">[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]HEAD SHIM AND GASKET
Reduces compression and allows use of premium pump fuel at moderate boost levels. We recommend the use of race fuel over 15 psi boost at sea level and 17 psi boost above 5000 feet.[/SIZE][/FONT]</td> <td width="20">
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
metalbar.jpg
</center>
 
I prefer the Impulse stand alone kit, but to answer your original question...

The Ulmer Turbo kit (formerly Northwest Turbo) would most likely be the best choice for the needs you have stated. It is a VERY trouble free system, with moderate boost levels.

A ceramic coated, cast iron exhaust manifold ensures years of trouble-free service, and 205hp @ 7.5lbs boost on pump gas with no head shim.

Capable of 13lbs boost with no head shim on race gas - probably about 230hp at elevation.

I understand there is a new fuel controller in the works this year that is virtually stand alone... but I cannot verify that.

I know a couple of guys that run the NW kits, and they love them. Good results without insane power!


<O:p</O:p​
 
christopher said:
When I ditch work for a day to hookup and go play, I need to know my sled is not going to let me down.
Click to expand...

Perfectly worded. I think this is what everyone wants. I am in a similar boat, looking for a trouble free kit. I talked with Paul at Impulse for a hour on Friday. Thinking I will be buying from him.
 
So when all is said and done, we come down to FOUR kits.

MCX
IMPULSE
NW TURBO / ULMER
BOONDOCKER
 
I have had 5 MCX turbos of my own, my son has had 3. We know the people that still have them as we are also a dealer for them and usually sell our sleds every year. We have installed and sold dozens of these kits. Personally, I have had to reweld 1 Nytro header of mine and 1 for a customer. I have also rewelded a few aftermarket exhaust headers as well (non-turbo). I do notice and get feedback that if you run hotter fuel than needed then the header is more prone to cracking, both the Nytros were running 17-18 psi and race fuel or avgas. It isn't the head gasket that rubs from the charge tube, it is the valve cover gasket at the half moon and if you glue them in and peen the smooth surface to give more grip it will not happen so just do it right and forget it, you can also put a thin aluminum plate in for protection but I don't find it necessary. I really like and promote these kits because of their "turnkey" operation once they have been installed properly and setup. I like the fact that I just give the owner the keys and don't have worry that he is going to run it lean. I just tell them to check the boost level and rpm and run fresh premium fuel, the rest takes care of itself. I use the 240 kit the most and can set it for less if required but most don't bother and just ride it. It will also depend on your dealer and where you live. If you live near a distributor or a dealer that is doing a lot of one kit and you know other people with them, you should have a pretty good idea of their reputation. The install is a major part of the reliability and satifaction you are going to get, so make sure you get someone that has done a few, or if you do it yourself take your time and be meticulous about your workmanship. I'm not sure how popular the 180 kit is going to be but it will be expensive to upgrade if (when) you decide you want 200+. The 240 kit can be upgraded to the 270 kit quite easily.
 
christopher said:
And it may well be that down the road I might want more as well. But my past experience has suggested that often time More = Less.

Less time to go riding
Less money left in my wallet
Less fun when they grenade

The #1 reason I am considering the yamaha in the first place is reliability. My time is precious and scarce, and I do NOT want to have a sled that is prone to being down.

When I ditch work for a day to hookup and go play, I need to know my sled is not going to let me down.
Click to expand...


Thats why I suggest the MCX 270 kit, proper installation, gas and ride. No wrenching.
 
anyone have any photos of where this "Rub" problem seems to be happening? And your fix?
 
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