Turbo Nytro Trouble

[osmond.mark]

I have a 2010 nytro running a powderlites kit. I am having trouble with it and cannot get it figured out. After about 30 mins riding, from idle to say 1/4 throttle the sled is cutting in and out. It is almost like if you were turning the key on and off while driving. If you find that spot in the throttle range you can almost get the sled to die down enough to stall. On the other side, if you keep the rpms up, (6000ish+) the sled runs excellent and pulls strong. You would never know there was anything wrong until you slow down enough to get the rpms down again. This only happens after riding for a while, seems like if I leave the sled overnight to cool down, its good to go for about 30 mins.

I have tried diableing the tors and cleaning rb3 connector. Fuel presure is around 50psi, sea level running 10 psi on 91 octane.

Can anyone help me, I have no idea where to try next and trying to get this straightened out for a big upcoming trip.

Thanks!

 

[TBird]

You say that you cleaned RB3 connectors, but have you disconnected it?
Do not load the engine when it's done, but to me it sounds as the box isn't healthy.
Does the box get hot?

 

[osmond.mark]

It doesn't seem like it gets hot, but I haven't really concentrated on it.

What do you mean dissconnect it? You mean unplug the box and try and run the sled? I would assume don't let it build boost with the rb3 unplugged, but will it even run without the box?

 

[TBird]

Yes, disconnect it.
It will run just fine, but do not load the engine = no boost.

 

[osmond.mark]

I will take it for a ride tonight and get it to act up. I will then dissconnect the rb3 and see if there are any changes. I will update then.

 

[TBird]

That's a good start, in my opinion RB3 is the most likely culprit in this case, but you never know ,,,,,

 

[osmond.mark]

After about 10 mins the sled acted up. I dissconnected the rb3 and the sled won't run. Any other ideas?

 

[TBird]

And you connected Yamaha connectors to each other?
You can't leave the circuit open.
RB3 is an piggy back that is connected inline with Yamaha ECU, when disconnected Yamaha ECU works alone and has no boost sensor and can't add fuel that's needed on boost.
I've had 2 sleds with RB3 so i've done this myself earlier.

 

[osmond.mark]

I did not. I did not see the yamaha ecu. I thought it was strange that it was supposed to work with no ecu as I was thinking the rb3 was standalone. I will search for the yamaha ecu today in the daylight and try it again. Thanks for the help, will report back after!

 

[TBird]

Follow the cable from the RB3, it's not that long.
b.t.w. have you tried contact Powderlites?
In my book he's the first to try to contact, good luck!

 

[osmond.mark]

I cannot find which plugs need to be dissconnected and connected. I followed the wires from the rb3 and they come to plug where it looks like it's split. I tried to disconnect them and just plug the two on sled side together and nothing. Everything is so compact in that engine compartment it's hard to picture what's going on there. Or is it a plug directly on the back of the ecu, which I believe is in the front nose cone area. Here is a picture of the plug I was wondering about and also what I believe to be the ecu.

 

[osmond.mark]

I cannot upload multiple images under the same post so here is the other.

Btw I have been talking to Dave at Powderlites a few times now, I just don't want to bug him to much. I assume he is pretty busy.

 

[TBird]

It's the correct connectors.
I agree, it can be a pain in the a** to reach them, on my Nypex they are behind the primary clutch under the engine, on the Apex they was easy reachable on the frame.
Did you get them completely together?
The engine should run if they are.
I guess you have larger primary injectors?
If that's the case it's difficult to get it to run because on idle it's might flood the engine.
Did the box get hot when it acts up?

 

[osmond.mark]

They were plugged together completely and the sled would run as long as the rb3 was still plugged into its connector but as soon as you disconnect it, it will shut off and won't start until you plug it back in.

When the sled acted up last night the rb3 was cool to the touch. I didn't get the sled to act up today, I was trying to figure out what to disconnect when it did and couldn't figure out if they were the correct connectors. I figured if the rb3 was still plugged in it could still affect timing and ignition etc?

 

[TBird]

Yupp, when plugged in it "should" alter ignition according to ignition map.
There's an white plug RB3 is connected to also, beside the rectifier (the grey metal case in your pic).
Usually when an RB3 is shot it gets hot.
Do you have an camera so you can shoot when it acts up?
It shouldn't be plugs or coils when it's in an specific rpm range, doubt it's tps.
And as it doesn't show any codes either it makes me very suspicious on the RB3.
Try to reach Dave @ Powderlites, you never know.

 

[osmond.mark]

Yeah there are no codes, and it is cool to the touch when it's acting up. What gets me is its only after it warms up good.

Yeah I could get a video of it acting up. It maybe a day or two before I get a chance to take it for another run though.

I will try and touch base with Dave tomorrow and see what he has to say.

I will post back when I find out anything.

 

[seano700]

Rb3

Just to be clear.
You plugged the two large grey factory plugs together up near the gas tank, and as well removed the rb3 from the timing circuit? I believe you need to remove the timing as well if you want it to run.. The timing plugs are down just above the head. The rb3 connectors are black, and stock ones white. Simply plug the whites together.

Have you Di-electric greased the connectors?

How warm is it outside when this happens and how fast are you going? My machine got so hot on the trail the fuel would boil. Daves location for the fuel pressure reg against the rad was a poor choice. This can be solved by purchasing a bung for the fuel rail, making it a retuning system back to the tank.. Like the apex. Simple test, run without the hood for a bit.

 

[seano700]

One more

Check that the rb3 is well grounded, direct the the battery is best.

 

[Linc]

Also check for a boost leak, mine wouldn't in the low portion of the throttle and it turned out it had boost leak at the throttle bodies.

 

[osmond.mark]

I removed the plastics (because there is just not enough room to get at the connectors for the RB3, unless I remove the trail tank) I also put the ground in a better spot for the RB3. I then took it for a ride to get it to act up. I then had planned to dissconect the RB3 to see if anything changed. I am not sure if because I had the plastics off something never got hot enough or if it was where I changed the ground, but I couldnt get it to act up. I will have to put it all together in the next day or two and try and see if I can get it to act up with all the plastics keeping the heat in. If I can I will have to try dissconecting the RB3 then, and also remove the plastics and see if the problem goes away. I will keep this updated.

I was talking to Dave today, he wasnt really sure what is going on either. I understand, its not easy to troubleshoot over the phone.