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Turbo not using oil??

Don't worry about Hatchers:) The 2-stroke oil is a good idea . . In fact the boondocker kits call for synthetic 2 stroke oil in their turbo

Here is some food for thought . . . These turbos were not manufactured specifically for snowmobiles, they are the same basic design as tubos found in high performance cars only smaller. Do you think it would be normal for a turbo mounted in your car to be leaking oil? If they did there would be a blue haze following every rice rocket out there.

I don't think it's normal for turbo's to burn oil but know that they are way more inclined to do so if the oil return path is blocked whatsoever... I was at a pretty steep angle and could have been bouncing the thing around quite a bit when I saw it burn that bit of oil... I think it prob just got by the seal on the turbine side... Makes sence with the angle too... I wonder if having it upside down for a half hour could have something to do with it aswell... I would think so!!!

The Comment from Dave about the "issues" has my curiosity peaked??:beer;
 
so im going to ask a dumb question but im going to ask anyway with the pure logic setup if i get stuck can i roll it over to get unstuck or will it leak out?
 
......Here is some food for thought . . . These turbos were not manufactured specifically for snowmobiles, they are the same basic design as tubos found in high performance cars only smaller......

Exactly why I think 2 stroke oil is NOT the ideal way to lube them. These turbos usually tap into the stock oil system of your car and use motor oil to lube them. Makes sense to me to use motor oil in the sled too?
 
until this year boondocker had a turbo oiling system that would allow turbo oil to migrate into the engine.....this is the real reason they suggested using 2 stoke injection oil for the turbo itself. However, using 2 stroke injection oil caused no issues with my turbo that had over 1300 miles......but, yes its ideal to use motor oil for these turbos.....but, its not that big of a deal really

i do know the twisted turbo oil tank has walls and transfer tubes built into the turbo oil tank that will not flood the turbo.....only got two rides on mine and not a drop of oil can be found yet.....we will see
 
My dealer told me it would go through a pint of oil per ride.

first things first, find a new dealer:beer;

the boondocker kit i had would maybe use 2-3 ounces every 10-15 rides....and me charge tube and intercooler were both full of oil.....this is why i used injection oil....no big deal except the 0-ring on the turbo oil discharge to the oil tank was waaaaaa to small, installed a bigger o-ring and wrapped with rubber heat tape, it worked better but still leaked too much for my flavor
 
I Had my first ride yesterday on my 06 TM7... With the Garrett 2871... I'm going to have to start a couple posts because I had a few issues, one of which was the turbo using oil... Its on race gas and I was running about 10-12 pounds... And its used...

I did have it upside down on 2 occations... didn't really want to shut it down right after a hard pull... Then had to pretty much roll it over to get er turned around... Wouldn't start after but that's another story... I did notice one time after a hard pull where I started to trench in... Jumped off to try to get it to pop out... When I let go of the throttle it burned some turbo oil... Could see it aswell as smell it...

I wonder if burns oil more when it's slowing down quickly, it would make sense that that would put more pressure on the bearings... It was also misting some oil out of the BOV... When I looked in the charge tube I was expecting it to be more oily but there was just a bit darkened in the charge tube hose joints... I guess the seals are prob worn or wearing out in this turbo?? It sounds really good and spins very freely... Especially when it is all lubed and warmed up I could hear it freewheeling for a while after shutting it down... I wonder if it would be a good move to run 2 stroke oil in the turbo... Atleast then if you are burning some it's all good... You would think the 2 stroke oil would handle heat well and be good as far as not leaving much for deposits as 2 sroke oils are very low in ash.. I think all turbo's will use a bit of oil, especially with all the differant angles and bouncing around a sled does... I am going to start a post on the 2 stroke oil in the turbo... Just want to search first so hatchers doesn't give me sht:D

what kit do you have?

hard to start after its hot?...do you have a water temp switch bypass installed?
 
what kit do you have?

hard to start after its hot?...do you have a water temp switch bypass installed?

Its the boondocker racegas kit with the purelogic controller, BEGI pressure reg, Single fuel pump in tank, I think the charge tube and BOV are PL?

It's only hard to start after it was upside down or close to it... No don't have the water temp bypass sw installed... Guess this tells it to inject a bit more fuel? I need to figure out if I had the oil resevoir too full... And if some oil may have gotten in when I got stuck a couple times at a steep angle, and wanted to let it run for 30- 40 seconds to let it cool down a bit??

I think I will install a primer aswell as the bypass switch.. Seems like 2 pretty easy fixes!!
 
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Its the boondocker racegas kit with the purelogic controller, BEGI pressure reg, Single fuel pump in tank, I think the charge tube and BOV are PL?

It's only hard to start after it was upside down or close to it... No don't have the water temp bypass sw installed... Guess this tells it to inject a bit more fuel? I need to figure out if I had the oil resevoir too full... And if some oil may have gotten in when I got stuck a couple times at a steep angle, and wanted to let it run for 30- 40 seconds to let it cool down a bit??

I think I will install a primer aswell as the bypass switch.. Seems like 2 pretty easy fixes!!

the water temp switch thing is very simple...i installed a on/off switch on the plastic bulkhead that mounts to the fuel tank. everything is normal when the switch is closed (on), flip the switch to open (off) and she will start much easier......the issue is with the stock water temp sensor being too close to the turbo water coolant discharge, so the stock ECU thinks the sled is smoking hot when its acutally not

other things ive learned:
1- only shut the sled off after it is allowed to idel for a 15 secs or more....or it might be hard to start
2- i never ever give it gas when i try to start a hot or cold sled, i use the water temp switch when its real cold....usally starts in 1-3 pulls. I also do not give it gas when the sled almost starts...seems to flood and become very hard to start
 
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