What needles is everyone running in their turbo doo's? I have the stock 04 summit needles in mine right now, but I have a rich spot in the mid range i cant get rid of. I am in the leanest clip position. I also have the mxz needles out of the 03 non dpm but havent tried them yet. They look a little longer but thinner in the middle. I'm running 15 pilots, 380 mains with power jets around 2 2-1/4 turns out. Running about 12.3 on afr at wot. Its definatly a little lean at idle, 16.5 -17 on afr. Runs really good full throttle just a little rich in the mid range. Also running around 8 - 10,000 feet at 10#'s of boost on 110. Thinking about mixing a little premium in with the 110. Any thoughts???
Turbo Needles
- Thread starter highmark00700
- Start date
I can't believe that thing runs with those jets at that alttitude! I'm also running 10lbs. I've run this sled this way for (2) years, runs flawlessly. I have '07 needles on the 3rd setting. I guess if you're wide open most of the time you'd be fine, but you must have a huge low/mid range bog?
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Is this on an R motor or a HO? I have an 04 800 HO
If I blip the throttle 3 or 4 times and keep it under a 1/4 throttle it will go right through it no problem. I also have an intercooler on it, maybe a contributor to the large mains. I started at 360 mains and had to open my power jets to 3 full turns to get my afr under 13. I'm running a mxz head (12:1) and boyesen rage cages with an BMP pipe.
From the part #'s the 07 needle is the same as the stock 04 summit w/dpm needle.
i suspect your Power jets are coming on too soon, You can change the tube and delay where they feed fuel?
Thanks for the ideas. I have been thinking about shortening the tubes slightly. I talked with brycter last spring about the length of them. I decided to wait on cutting them down since it was starting to get warm and figured i would be chasing my tail come winter when it cooled down again. Now I cant remember how much he told me to cut off and try.
I was running 360's and had to open my power jets to 3 full turns out to get my afr below 13, thats why i jetted up to 380 to close my power jets and get rid of some of the excess fuel in the mid range.
N
NITROSKIDUDE
Well-known member
What do you have your fuel pressure at.
Its set at 3 1/2 to 4 psi at idle, with a boost referenced regulator I was seeing about 14-15 psi at full boost (9-10 psi).
N
NITROSKIDUDE
Well-known member
I ran full race at first. and now I am running almost straight 92 and it seemed to clean up my bottom end response,
Seems your Af readings are close to what I am getting, I also have egt's and they are running at the right temps.
But some pump fuel helped my bobble, I run fromm 5000-7500. At your elevation you should need less race fuel.
Just my .02 cents worth
Seems your Af readings are close to what I am getting, I also have egt's and they are running at the right temps.
But some pump fuel helped my bobble, I run fromm 5000-7500. At your elevation you should need less race fuel.
Just my .02 cents worth
I also run egts. I see temps close to 1200 with my afr aroud 12.3 I am going to mix my next tank of fuel at 70/30 and see if it helps throttle response before i shorten my power jets. I am a little nervous of mixing it to thin where i unload at around 5500 elevation most of the time. All of our riding is at 8-10000 I just don't want any deto getting to it.
N
NITROSKIDUDE
Well-known member
Sounds like you are good at WOT
And it is provin thar too much race fuel will hurt performance. When it is not needed.
And the higher the elevation the less it is needed also. ( at Boost for boost.)
And it is provin thar too much race fuel will hurt performance. When it is not needed.
And the higher the elevation the less it is needed also. ( at Boost for boost.)
yes cut your power jets. 1 mm at a time. the other thing you can do is wrap your handle bar with tape. take tape off until you get to rich spot. then remove carbs and see if the power jet is slobering past the slide. if so cut up 1mm -1.5mm past slide . do not change calibration of power jet and try again.
we have done this a couple time. works pretty good also work good to get rid of a lean spot.
we have done this a couple time. works pretty good also work good to get rid of a lean spot.
Hey bryce what do you recommend for fuel at our elevation with a 12:1 head and 10 pounds of boost on an HO motor?
'01~'02 Summits use part# 404 161 962 or 9ZLY02-58.
'03 Summit has its own #404 162 016 or 9DHI12-58.
'04 Summit 800HO w/ DPM, '05 & '07 800R #404 162 059 or 9EGY02-58.
'04 Summit 800HO non-DPM, '06 800HO #404 162 062 or 9DGI13-58.
'04 MXZ 800HO w/DPM #404 162 019 or 9DGI07-58.
Anybody know how to break down the Mikuni part #?
EDIT:
Found it!
Selection Guide:
Often we are asked what needle to use when an OEM needle is no longer available. The way Mikuni Needle numberings work is:
The first number is the length series. Lets take the series 4 needle. It could be 40.00-49.99mm in length. In turn a 5 could be 50.00-59.99mm in length.
The second and sometimes third characters being letters describe the taper from the clip end to the tip in 15minute (1/4th of a degree) increments. For example "B" is 30 seconds, and "E" is 1 degree, 15 seconds. Therefore a "BE" would be a taper starting out at 30 seconds (1/2 degree), followed by a second taper of 1min 15sec.
The last digit be it one or two characters is the suffix or revision number. Example. 4D3, and 4D8 are the same style needle, similar in length and taper. However the taper may begin higher up on the needle than the other. This would make a smaller tip diameter, or a shorter needle. If shims, or clip positions were incorporated on one needle it is possible that it may effectively perform like the other. For this reason we sometimes suggest ordering a 4D3, or 4D8 for example if an OEM application calls for a 4D5 which is not available, instead of a 4E?
Lastly there is sometimes a number designated by OEM's and this designates the clip position. Example: 5DP3-4. However this "-#" designation is not part of the needed part number.
One last note: A suffix number has the following unknown variables between one needle and another. Exact length, Major OD, Point of begining of taper in reference to clip position. Without physically measuring them there is no way to determine these characteristics just by looking at the part number.
'03 Summit has its own #404 162 016 or 9DHI12-58.
'04 Summit 800HO w/ DPM, '05 & '07 800R #404 162 059 or 9EGY02-58.
'04 Summit 800HO non-DPM, '06 800HO #404 162 062 or 9DGI13-58.
'04 MXZ 800HO w/DPM #404 162 019 or 9DGI07-58.
Anybody know how to break down the Mikuni part #?
EDIT:
Found it!
Selection Guide:
Often we are asked what needle to use when an OEM needle is no longer available. The way Mikuni Needle numberings work is:
The first number is the length series. Lets take the series 4 needle. It could be 40.00-49.99mm in length. In turn a 5 could be 50.00-59.99mm in length.
The second and sometimes third characters being letters describe the taper from the clip end to the tip in 15minute (1/4th of a degree) increments. For example "B" is 30 seconds, and "E" is 1 degree, 15 seconds. Therefore a "BE" would be a taper starting out at 30 seconds (1/2 degree), followed by a second taper of 1min 15sec.
The last digit be it one or two characters is the suffix or revision number. Example. 4D3, and 4D8 are the same style needle, similar in length and taper. However the taper may begin higher up on the needle than the other. This would make a smaller tip diameter, or a shorter needle. If shims, or clip positions were incorporated on one needle it is possible that it may effectively perform like the other. For this reason we sometimes suggest ordering a 4D3, or 4D8 for example if an OEM application calls for a 4D5 which is not available, instead of a 4E?
Lastly there is sometimes a number designated by OEM's and this designates the clip position. Example: 5DP3-4. However this "-#" designation is not part of the needed part number.
One last note: A suffix number has the following unknown variables between one needle and another. Exact length, Major OD, Point of begining of taper in reference to clip position. Without physically measuring them there is no way to determine these characteristics just by looking at the part number.
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