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Turbo get coolant before or after the motor?

F
I've have a 07 M8 with OVS Tial. I am not the original owner, and just going over everything to make sure it's installed correctly. It appears that the coolant line that was coming from the carbs is connected to the right side of the turbo (outside) and the line on the inside goes under the motor. Should it get the coolest coolant first before the motor? I can post a picture if that would help.
 
you guys seem to get away with that in the deep snow, the circuit is a heater NOT a cooling loop..

On the flats it just raises coolant temp to over 200 degrees in just a few miles of 4 psi riding..
Last yr a poor fellow had an xp turbo kit that went down 4 times in the first 336 miles.. The builder kept telling him it was his fault,, lol,, Its for sale LOL

Not one of mine,, wheew

On the flats ,, out from the coolers to the turbo then BACK into the coolers after the engine ..any other method just makes coolant temp climb and climb till you stop or sieze..

the carb or throttle body HEATER loop is by definition NOT a cooling loop, look at how it flows and ask yourself if there is a BETTER way...betcha you realize its a short cut method real quick.....


Gus
 
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That's what I was thinking, "heated carbs"

I talked with OVS and they assured me it's fine the way I have it. Never had one problem in 6 years. But I live in Iowa with marginal snow conditions with a 2.5 camo extreme. I would much prefer to get ice cold coolant and bypass the motor while riding here. Would this lower charge temps also?

I don't think I have enough knowledge to make this work without some input from others, or perhaps buy a kit. Some questions that come to mind would be, would there by enough flow to push fluid through if tee'd off, and would there need to be a check valve? I don't even know which side the cold return coolant comes from? PTO or Mag side?
 
I never thought about that Gus. I figured since we only run like a 130 degree thermostat that the coolant would be cool enough. So do you just tee in pre and post cooler, and do you keep the coolant running through the throttle bodies.
 
No coolant in the t bodies for me, we ( t ) in at the waterpump , then in my case and islandoo's we used the bosch coolant pump from the ford lightnening, then back in after the engine, the pump makes it NOT need a check valve,, I am going to use a checkvalve on one this yr and NO pump...you end up around 100 degrees constant in the intercooler,, turbo temp I only know is much cooler to the touch..
We go thru the intercooler THEN the turbo ,
My goal was to reduce engine overheating we were seeing using the heating loop,, the turbo was driving coolant temps past 180 so for us it was win win...
With this method coolant temps stay under 140 for us instead of pull over and wait at 200 degrees every 20 minutes or less when on the hammer hard !!
remember we use 1 inch tracks or maybe 1 3/8th,, groomed dusty trails with littel to no loose snow to run thru...

We've been doing it this way for the past 3 seasons,, if you need assistance email me at
gus.bohne@comcast.net..
 
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Been looking at this for a few days now. I do remember having some pretty big water temps at the top of a few big climbs. I attributed it to a "lean" learning curve.

It looks like the cat system brings water into the water pump(through the Tstat) and then supplies cold water to the head first. It also supplies water off the water pump through the turbo(or TBs) and then back to the inlet of the pump to dilute with the cooler flow coming into the water pump. Now even though it is diluted it probably doesn't need this little stream of hot water added to the cooling water going to the head.

I think I am going to allow the cat pump to supply water but route the return to my inline temp sender "T" and return it there with the hot water out of the motor. I'll just have to put the removed temp sender in the block since I don't have room for another "T"

Should be a pretty easy test.........now if we just had snow...sigh
 
We made a long drive this weekend to get the first ride of the season for us. I was pretty impressed by this little rerouting of the coolant for the turbo.

What I did is not at all conclusive or scientific, but I ran trails and boondocking with water temps around 106 all day long. The first of last season I used to see water temps around 124 and then up as high as 150-160 at the top of a climb.

Lots of variables unfortunately. Different gauge, different conditions, no big climbs, etc, but it sure looks like the right way to go. Thanks Gus!
 
Not sure what all the fuss is about. In the automotive world these same turbos would see coolant temps through the turbo that are higher than that. They run for a long time that way. The main purpose of the coolant in the center section is to maintain a more consistent center section temp and help wick away heat when the engine is not runnig preventing coking. That is why OVS says not to worry. The so called heater loop is an easy way to hook up the coolant to the turbo and it works.
 
Not sure what all the fuss is about. In the automotive world these same turbos would see coolant temps through the turbo that are higher than that. They run for a long time that way. The main purpose of the coolant in the center section is to maintain a more consistent center section temp and help wick away heat when the engine is not runnig preventing coking. That is why OVS says not to worry. The so called heater loop is an easy way to hook up the coolant to the turbo and it works.

I don't think anyone is worried about the turbo. I want cooler coolant going to my head to hopefully lessen the chance of det.
 
I don't think anyone is worried about the turbo. I want cooler coolant going to my head to hopefully lessen the chance of det.

Yup ditto, on one of my turbo projects I didn't even water cool the turbo.

The way the lines work, is the hot water from the turbo recirculates right back into the cold water heading into the motor/head. Now, I plumbed it to return down stream of the motor so that the motor stays as cold as possible.

I haven't had any major problems with the other way, but just trying to constantly find ways to improve our system. Hope this clears up the confusion.
 
Your welcome Tony,, Its all about keeping the deto monster at bay..
learning every single day...
They are afterall, just dumb pieces of metal...

Working with guys like you is fun...

Gus
 
My Dragon is plumbed into the turbo after the cooler and the out of the turbo into the engine out. Basically we are just bleeding a little coolant before it gets to the engine and running it back into the coolers, bypassing the engine. It's a dedicated cooling circuit for the turbo using the existing cooling system!:tea:

Oh yeah, no heating issues whatsoever! Just like stock....till you nail it!
 
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No doubt Eli,you and shain are smart guys,, he did NOT take the short cut easy WRONG route..

One of the reasons I like Twisted turbos set ups so much.

the heater circuit does just what it name says..heat..lol

next yr,, other shops will have NEW updates to kits.. LMAO !!

3 yrs ago STM mark was asking me about his 1200 cat turbo taking out o rings at over 20 psi even on short runs..I told him the puny little fuel pump was to small ,, as per the specs on the friggin pump !!!

but,, he said the guru at the time was using it on his ( big name ) stuff and was having the same problem.. cant be the pump,, he would have changed it..LOL

today,, 3 yrs later Mark has a new idea,,, they went to a larger fuel pump..
They discovered while testing that the pump was not up to the job..

LMFAO.. as usual,, I dont know what I'm doing till its YOUR idea..now u know why I use the 1000hp fuel pumps..

Gus
 
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Shain's the smart one. He already routed the plumbing this way. This thread made me double check the routing. According to Garrett, after shutoff, thermal cycling will continue to circulate water through the turbo to prevent coking. Cool stuff.
 
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