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TSS & Throttle Cable Question

who said I was arguing with you? I don't care what happens honestly as I am not the one with a problem. I was just trying to help the OP out and explain how it worked. I am sorry if I offended you but felt the OP was misinformed so I stated how it worked. :face-icon-small-con
 
Here is some stages and what happens with throttle cable adjustment.use this as guidlines to get correct setting.
1) 1mm slack at base of flipper correct sled works fine
2) a little to tight sled will start and idle fine but reverse doesn't work,press perc nothing happens
3) tighten cable a little more sled will start and idle fine but as soon as you press flipper TSS activates engine shuts down
4) tighten cable a little more TSS activates engine won't start
Cable to loose engine will start and run fine but as stated above tps will be out of sync and engine will not run as crisp as it should and you may not get peak rpm as throttle body's won't be wide open
Of coarse these are all just my opionions lol
Hope this helps.
 
Turbo Lover..

Sure you didn't disconnect the Kill Switch plug in..??

There are Three / wire harnesses coming from the Throttle block..

One Hand warmers..

Two Tss Switch

Three Kill Switch



Unplugging the Hand warmer or the kill switch one it would run as ur sled is..

Bit with the tss unplugged.. It shouldn't be running in rev. or over 3 k..

Just my point of view.

who said I was arguing with you? I don't care what happens honestly as I am not the one with a problem. I was just trying to help the OP out and explain how it worked. I am sorry if I offended you but felt the OP was misinformed so I stated how it worked. :face-icon-small-con

I am not offended by any this discussion.
I will take pictures of the wires that I disconnected and do a video of what the symptoms were and how I corrected it.
If I have in fact disconnected wires that do not connect to the TSS I will stand corrected and make a full retraction.
I am simply saying that on a 2014 PRO RMK, there are 3 wire sets to the handle bars on the right side.
1 Kill switch - doesn't go to throttle block as it is mounted seperately
2 handwarmers that go to handle bar
3 TSS that comes out of the Throttle block. this is the wireset I unhooked and my problem quit.

So for the sake of argument I will show you with pictures and video tonight.
Then if I am wrong I will admit it.
 
you want a little slack in it. You should notice the pivot pin is slotted, if you tighten the cable to much it slides the pivot pin back into the TSS and it will kill the engine. You can confirm this by starting the sled while it is idling and start tightening the cable, once you get to a certain point the sled will shut off like you hit the kill switch then you know that is to tight. hope that helps

Thanks, I am not having a problem with mine since it is adjusted properly. My concern was that BR was giving some bad information, which has pretty much been confirmed by others. Carry on...
 
Ok I am going to admit that I am partially wrong here.
If there is not something else going on then you cannot unplug the TSS and have it operate normally.
When I got home tonight I checked all the plugs. I did have the TSS unplugged and it will start, go into reverse and run.
However now it will not rev over 3000 rpms as you said it should not do.
I plugged it back in and then it worked fine and revved to full throttle.
When I unplugged it again it started the cutout at 3000 rpm.

So in my ignorance I have been educated that I apparently have some wiring that I need to look into.
Because when it did this on my trip I unplugged it and rode it for three days. (Iced up and dripping wet)
Now that it has sat drying out in my driveway since Saturday. It will not work correctly with the TSS unplugged. No rev over 3000.

Thank you to PDP Racing for teaching me that I was incorrect.
Now I get to go find out what the F is wrong with my wiring harness.


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
Interesting discussion. I've never needed to troubleshoot or think about the TSS since the pre - CFI days. Thanks for the info.
 
Ok I am going to admit that I am partially wrong here.
If there is not something else going on then you cannot unplug the TSS and have it operate normally.
When I got home tonight I checked all the plugs. I did have the TSS unplugged and it will start, go into reverse and run.
However now it will not rev over 3000 rpms as you said it should not do.
I plugged it back in and then it worked fine and revved to full throttle.
When I unplugged it again it started the cutout at 3000 rpm.

So in my ignorance I have been educated that I apparently have some wiring that I need to look into.
Because when it did this on my trip I unplugged it and rode it for three days. (Iced up and dripping wet)
Now that it has sat drying out in my driveway since Saturday. It will not work correctly with the TSS unplugged. No rev over 3000.

Thank you to PDP Racing for teaching me that I was incorrect.
Now I get to go find out what the F is wrong with my wiring harness.


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

I sincerely was not trying to be an @ss. I did not set out to prove you wrong. I was just trying to help out and looks like maybe I did a little bit. I guess my suggestion to you would be to look into the TPS harness and sensor if it did work and now it wont. Like I said before I think the only way that will work is if the TPS has an issue of some sort. Thanks for the follow up
 
I didn't think you were being an ***.
And I can admit when I am wrong. There is something else going on that I was not aware of and will be looking into why it did.
Thanks

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
Thanks, I am not having a problem with mine since it is adjusted properly. My concern was that BR was giving some bad information, which has pretty much been confirmed by others. Carry on...

BR was not really giving false info in his defense. The cable does change TPS settings when it becomes to tight. The only reason Reverse does not work is because the computer is picking up that the TPS is showing above idle voltage. You can bypass the TSS and take the throttle cable off and the sled still wont go into reverse if it is showing a higher voltage at idle. Same thing happens when you try and turn the idle screw up on the throttle bodies to compensate for a low idle.
 
BR was not really giving false info in his defense. The cable does change TPS settings when it becomes to tight. The only reason Reverse does not work is because the computer is picking up that the TPS is showing above idle voltage. You can bypass the TSS and take the throttle cable off and the sled still wont go into reverse if it is showing a higher voltage at idle. Same thing happens when you try and turn the idle screw up on the throttle bodies to compensate for a low idle.

Well 3mm slack and 1mm slack are very different and could easily cause an issue as sensitive as the system is. Snugging the flipper up without over doing it is pretty simple, only an ape could screw that up.

The only way to change the TPS setting is to use a screwdriver... What the ecu see's because the cable is out of adjustment is a different story but the throttle cable adjustment can not change the TPS setting.

Now my sled has an out of whack TPS. It idles low and is causing the sled to load up a bit. I know that if I use the throttle cable adjustment or throttle body opening adjustment without first addressing the TPS settings, it will be all screwed up. At the end of the day the TPS baseline needs to be set, the throttle blades need adjusted for the correct TPS idle setting voltage then the throttle cable needs to be properly adjusted with the proper slack.

I just thought that a "premier turbo install center" would have a little better understanding of how it all works together...
 
TL's success running the sled with the TSS unplugged in the field was likely the TSS switch itself was stuck, ice in the switch, in the off idle position. As soon as it thawed, the TSS released to the idle position, and started to act normally. May be no issue with the harness, at all. The TSS was rendered useless in the field, and it wouldn't be the first time.
 
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TL's success running the sled with the TSS unplugged in the field was likely the TSS switch itself was stuck, ice in the switch, in the off idle position. As soon as it thawed, the TSS released to the idle position, and started to act normally. May be no issue with the harness, at all. The TSS was rendered useless in the field, and it wouldn't be the first time.

I am thinking that moisture and icing issues is going to be the culprit.
It snowed on us at the lodge. Sleds sitting outside and not getting a chance to thaw out could have gotten something shorted in a way it shouldn't have.

After sitting on 50+ weather for 4 days it wont work as I said but it does work like it is supposed to.
I need to look at the wiring and make sure there aren't any bad plugs or bare spots on the wires and check my TPS setting.
 
Well 3mm slack and 1mm slack are very different and could easily cause an issue as sensitive as the system is. Snugging the flipper up without over doing it is pretty simple, only an ape could screw that up.

The only way to change the TPS setting is to use a screwdriver... What the ecu see's because the cable is out of adjustment is a different story but the throttle cable adjustment can not change the TPS setting.

Now my sled has an out of whack TPS. It idles low and is causing the sled to load up a bit. I know that if I use the throttle cable adjustment or throttle body opening adjustment without first addressing the TPS settings, it will be all screwed up. At the end of the day the TPS baseline needs to be set, the throttle blades need adjusted for the correct TPS idle setting voltage then the throttle cable needs to be properly adjusted with the proper slack.

I just thought that a "premier turbo install center" would have a little better understanding of how it all works together...

You are 100% correct.

LMAO on the rest, guess I didn't realize we were talking about "premier turbo guru center". Must be more to this story then I know.
 
TL's success running the sled with the TSS unplugged in the field was likely the TSS switch itself was stuck, ice in the switch, in the off idle position. As soon as it thawed, the TSS released to the idle position, and started to act normally. May be no issue with the harness, at all. The TSS was rendered useless in the field, and it wouldn't be the first time.

But if he unplugged the TSS like he said then the computer would not notice the switch was froze in the off idle position so he should have had the same issues he is having at this current time. From what I have seen ice usually forms between the flipper and the block not allowing the TSS to activate so it will give the exact same symptoms as we have determined by simply unplugging the unit.
 
But if he unplugged the TSS like he said then the computer would not notice the switch was froze in the off idle position so he should have had the same issues he is having at this current time. From what I have seen ice usually forms between the flipper and the block not allowing the TSS to activate so it will give the exact same symptoms as we have determined by simply unplugging the unit.

You're absolutely right - if the guy (not the OP) unplugged the TSS - and not some other circuit like the KS. Goes back to your original point - the sled won't run if the TSS is unplugged. Just what was unplugged we don't know.
 
I'm having the same issue, my 2014 rmk assault 800 won't start at all now, I have spark, compression, fuel and oil, but won't start, I tried unplugging it and it didn't work, then I tried cutting the tss side wires and joining them together so it creates a loop after the connecter and acts as a risister but that didn't work either and still can't get it to start, any help would be awesome
 
I'm having the same issue, my 2014 rmk assault 800 won't start at all now, I have spark, compression, fuel and oil, but won't start, I tried unplugging it and it didn't work, then I tried cutting the tss side wires and joining them together so it creates a loop after the connecter and acts as a risister but that didn't work either and still can't get it to start, any help would be awesome

If I'm understanding you correctly, you're attempting to bypass the TSS to test by cutting the TSS lead and shorting the wires together. This won't work. You have to put a resistor into the circuit, and it has to be the appropriate value: 6790Ω +/- 185 according to the manual. This resistance tells the ECU that you are intentionally pressing the throttle flipper (sled will start and run as normal with this setting, but without any TSS safety feature). So, get yourself a 6.8kOhm resistor and wire it in series with those two cut TSS wires.
 
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