Trying to Switch out tracks

[TuckerTerra]

I am changing my track on my 151, and would like to try to do it myself to save some cash.

I am pretty well mechanical inclined, but before I dive into this I want to know what I am getting myself into; I heard from someone that changing the track on this model sled with reverse is not easy.


Someone I know changed their track out on a sled similar to mine, with reverse and didnt put something back correctly, and ended up grenading something in the drive line and still ended up taking it to the dealer

SOOOO, Guess what I am asking is does anyone have any tips, instructions, recommendation, or clues of any type that will get me going in the right direction and help me out.

Thanks very much for your time!

 

[backcountryislife]

You might want to start.... by telling us which sled!!!

I'm assuming by the 151 that it's a 1m, zr, or older chassis?

 

[Biglizard1]

one extra set of hands really helped me. also you may check the maine section to see if anyone is close to you that has experience with this process to come give you some pointers. I recently changed tracks on my sled, mind you i dont have reverse but even a firefighter like me could figure it out! good luck!

 

[Biglizard1]

04 mt cat i think he has

 

[TuckerTerra]

one extra set of hands really helped me. also you may check the maine section to see if anyone is close to you that has experience with this process to come give you some pointers. I recently changed tracks on my sled, mind you i dont have reverse but even a firefighter like me could figure it out! good luck!

Yeah I plan on having a buddy help me, but on of my freinds that knows a little about how to do it is hard to get to come down and spend a day to do it as it seems he is always working. But yeahh thankss!!! I dont think taking it apart will too hard, but puting it all back together so it doesnt screw up is what I am worried about. I heard there are A LOT of parts to put in wrong haha

You might want to start.... by telling us which sled!!!

I'm assuming by the 151 that it's a 1m, zr, or older chassis?

04 mt cat i think he has

Yeah, Correct Biglizard.... 04 1M mountain cat 800 EFI 151

sorry bout that.

 

[1Mike900]

Best thing to do is lay the parts out sequentially as you dismantle the chaincase, the rest should be the same as any other from there on. If you look at Babitts.com web sight for the make and model it shows all the parts in basically the sequential order as Cat would assemble it?

Mike

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Probably the most critical thing is to make sure you put the drive gears back on exactly the way they came out. You can install the bottom gear wrong side out. And then your chain will run out of alignment and you will have a nasty failure down the road.

Make sure you check both bearings when the drive shaft is out. And if you need to change the Speedo bearing, don't tighten it up on the shaft with the lock collor until you have the drive gear side back on and tight.

Make sure you remove the rear sping blocks from the rail to relieve the pressure on the rear skid. Just makes it easier to get it back in.


This job can be done in less than an hour if you know know what your are doing with an extra set of hands. For you first time it could take a couple hours just to make sure you get everything back in correctly.

You will have to play around with blocks and such to get the rear skid to line back up but just trial and error.

Dig in, pretty hard to screw this up.

Thunder

 

[Rixster]

It will make life soo much easier on you if you have a place you can hang the back of the sled in the air.
1. Take some pressure off the rear skid (hanging the rear of the sled)
loosen your axle and the track tension bolts. Take the 4 bolts that hold the skid in, pull the skid.
2. get your silencer out of the way, drain your chain case. pull the cover, pull the gears and chain. pay attention to how the gears come out, especially the bottom one.
3. pull your secondary clutch off, take the 3 nuts off that hold the drive shaft bearing in. (they are on carriage bolts so you may have to hold them in to get the nuts off all the way). do the same on the chain case side, on that side the nuts are on studs so they wont go anywhere).
4. the drive shaft should now come out, watch the bearing on the chain case side, it has a o-ring on it. make sure you pay attention how that bearing comes out so you can put it back in right.
5. reverse steps to put it back together.
The chain tension is finger tight then back it off 1/4 turn.

 

[TuckerTerra]

Best thing to do is lay the parts out sequentially as you dismantle the chaincase, the rest should be the same as any other from there on. If you look at Babitts.com web sight for the make and model it shows all the parts in basically the sequential order as Cat would assemble it?

Mike

Yeahhh! thats what I'll plan on doing. Yeah a diagram will certainly help a lot! thanks!

Probably the most critical thing is to make sure you put the drive gears back on exactly the way they came out. You can install the bottom gear wrong side out. And then your chain will run out of alignment and you will have a nasty failure down the road.

Make sure you check both bearings when the drive shaft is out. And if you need to change the Speedo bearing, don't tighten it up on the shaft with the lock collor until you have the drive gear side back on and tight.

Make sure you remove the rear sping blocks from the rail to relieve the pressure on the rear skid. Just makes it easier to get it back in.


This job can be done in less than an hour if you know know what your are doing with an extra set of hands. For you first time it could take a couple hours just to make sure you get everything back in correctly.

You will have to play around with blocks and such to get the rear skid to line back up but just trial and error.

Dig in, pretty hard to screw this up.

Thunder

It will make life soo much easier on you if you have a place you can hang the back of the sled in the air.
1. Take some pressure off the rear skid (hanging the rear of the sled)
loosen your axle and the track tension bolts. Take the 4 bolts that hold the skid in, pull the skid.
2. get your silencer out of the way, drain your chain case. pull the cover, pull the gears and chain. pay attention to how the gears come out, especially the bottom one.
3. pull your secondary clutch off, take the 3 nuts off that hold the drive shaft bearing in. (they are on carriage bolts so you may have to hold them in to get the nuts off all the way). do the same on the chain case side, on that side the nuts are on studs so they wont go anywhere).
4. the drive shaft should now come out, watch the bearing on the chain case side, it has a o-ring on it. make sure you pay attention how that bearing comes out so you can put it back in right.
5. reverse steps to put it back together.
The chain tension is finger tight then back it off 1/4 turn.

Thats what I am talking about! Thanks for the help! I can see one problem is that last time I tried taking my chaincase cover off it was stuck on due to somthing with the reverse. Guess Ill have to figure out how to get it off now...haha

Thanksss!!!!

 

[fishtank]

Make sure you remove the rear sping blocks from the rail to relieve the pressure on the rear skid. Just makes it easier to get it back in.

I had the most trouble getting the skid back in. Removing these blocks didnt seem to help. I couldnt get the two rear bolts to line up. Ended up using a ratchet strap hooked from my drop bracket to the front A Arm and slowly compressed the rear rear suspension until the holes lined up.

Would be easier with 2 people but I managed it by myself. Took me about a week to do it (cpl hours each night), haha, im pretty much an ametuer. Thankfully I did this before the season started.

 

[diggerdown]

I had the most trouble getting the skid back in. Removing these blocks didnt seem to help. I couldnt get the two rear bolts to line up. Ended up using a ratchet strap hooked from my drop bracket to the front A Arm and slowly compressed the rear rear suspension until the holes lined up.

Would be easier with 2 people but I managed it by myself. Took me about a week to do it (cpl hours each night), haha, im pretty much an ametuer. Thankfully I did this before the season started.

Next time have the rear of the sled elevated, bolt int he front tube then put a 4x4 under the track at the front shock, let the tail down and the rear holes should line up close enough to get the bolts in. Make sure you have the track as loose as it will go.

 

[TuckerTerra]

Yeahh I had an extra hand, and actually two people later on. Got it all together, wasnt too hard at all. Changed to bearings and bogies while I had it all apart.

Question though... I put it together, and rode it around a little big, rode smooth, nothing seem to catch....BUT when I put it in reverse the lever pulls very hard, almost like it is catching on something

AND I had to pull the chaincase cover back off to replace the gasket that was dripping, and found what looked like a few filings.... uh oh...

The only place I can see they may be coming from is the big gear (#12 on http://www.alpha-sports.com/sled/2004/2004MC800EFI/12.gif). It looks like it may be rubbing on the chain.

I looked at all the parts, but I was very carefull to put it back together how it came apart (i thought). Anyone have this problem, or is the chain supposed to be veryyy close to that gear?

thanks!

 

[80arrow]

Did you put the same gears back in it or did you change the gearing? Did you put the gear in with the correct side facing out? I don't think that there is much room between the chain and the gear but its been a few years since I worked on a chaindrive.

 

[TuckerTerra]

I think I found it.... I dont think it was the chain rubbing, I think it was the reverse gear rubbing on the larger gear below it. It was the one gear that I I pulled off and had three spacers in my hand before I knew it, and went by a diagram to put it back together. But I think I missunderstood it or somthing, cause after I rearanged the spacers it cleared the other gear more.

Yeahh I am sure I put the gears in right, The ones I pulled off would only go on with the correct way facing out/in.

 

[fishtank]

Next time have the rear of the sled elevated, bolt int he front tube then put a 4x4 under the track at the front shock, let the tail down and the rear holes should line up close enough to get the bolts in. Make sure you have the track as loose as it will go.

Tried all kinds of combos of lifting the back different heights and different sizes of blocks of wood under the skid/track etc Would never line up close enough to get the bolt in until I used the straps. Thats why it took me a week. I kept getting pissed off with it and leaving it for the next night, lol.

 

[Bowslayer]

Are you going to change the track pitch?

I just finished putting a 153 Maverick on my late model 03 900. I put stock King Cat drivers on my Driveshaft, but you have to shorten the front of your rails or you will hit the extrovert drivers. I shortened mine 1.25 inches to accomodate the drivers. I also put M-7 rear wheels to take up the slack of the longer track and smaller drivers. Not a huge job but a pain in the butt none the less. John