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Trailer Heating

SLDHVN

Well-known member
Premium Member
I have been reading and searching for quite a while on this and still havent found anything that hits the nail on the head...

I want to set my 26' enclosed trailer up with a nice heating system in it for thawing the sleds out after riding, last season i just pulled them in the garage and left my truck outside all winter which kinda sucked.

Im looking for something electric so i can just plug it in for the night and be done with it.

i have been looking at these options...
http://www.adventurerv.net/suburban-sf35-sf35-series-ducted-furnace-35000-btus-p-11443.html

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...e-Electric-google_pr&infoParam.campaignId=T9F

anyone have any other ideas

i use the trailer for camping in the hunting season and obviously sledding, it would just be nice to keep the sleds in the trailer to thaw out in the winter

thanks
 
if you are looking for PURE electric heat, here is a good primer on what your up against to heat up a trailer and melt all the snow over night.

http://www.acdirect.com/new_faq/info_sizing_electric_furnaces_1.php

An electric furnace is actually an "air handler" with a heating element. These heating elements are sized based on their Kw, or kilowatt of power consumption. Each Kw produces 3400 Btu's of heat. If your determine your trailer requires 52,000 Btu's of heat then divide 52,000 by 3400 to arrive at the Kw figure required.

52,000 Btu's required divided by 3400 Btu's produced ( per Kw ) = 15.29 Kw


30 Amps = 5Kw
40 Amps = 7Kw
45 Amps = 7.5Kw
50 Amps = 8Kw
60 Amps = 10Kw
80 Amps = 14-15Kw
100 Amps = 17-18Kw
120 Amps = 20Kw
150 Amps = 25Kw


Just taking a guess here, but I am betting you will need something like 100-120 BTUs per square foot in a long trailer to keep the heat high over night considering how poorly (if at all) a trailer is insulated
 
good info, thanks chris

i dont think the trailer is insulated at all, but then again it doesnt need to stay heated all night. just need enough to thaw the sleds and thats good. maybe a portable heater is good enough
 
Same problem I have with mine.
No insulation.
I bought a forced air propane heater.
Come home, open the forward door, toss it in, plug it in and melt away.

NOT a elegant solution, but I want a NEW trailer and I wasn't willing to make the big investment in converting my trailer.

Electric would work, but your going to have to install an RV outlet in your driveway to plug that beast into. And its going to take some AMPS as you can see from the chart.
 
Might as well spend the extra $20 and get the big one.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...e-Electric-amaz_shop&infoParam.campaignId=T9I

Contractor Heater 5600/4200w @ 240/208v Plug Type: 30 Amp 240v


30207470.jpg
 
The Berko heater looks good but not everyone has an outdoor outlet for 240V. I think the electric sure seems safer than hauling propane around. but then when you are out sledding in the mtns and want to wrench, you won't have access to electricity unless you bring a generator, and a big one for this unit.

Where does the melted snow go? Through the seams in the plywood floor or just building up in the tie down tracks?

The sizing (BTU/KW) also needs to consider the energy reequired to melt snow, which shouldn't be underestimated. You have 4 sleds all at the outdoor temperature, the coldair in the trailer, the heat loss through the floor, ceiling and walls, and the snow built up on the sleds.

I wonder about using a portable barbecue tank with a vented wall propane furnace. The tank and connections would stay clean. Just hook up the tank each time you want to use it?
 
the big berko heater should do the trick. i have a 240v outlet in my garage, i can probably get some rv extension cord to run out to the trailer

the melted snow should evaporate if a vent is left open
im just not a fan of mounting up a big propane set up in there right now, it would be nice but i dont have the time or money at this point
 
I wonder about using a portable barbecue tank with a vented wall propane furnace. The tank and connections would stay clean. Just hook up the tank each time you want to use it?

This is the portable route I went.
Temporary at best, but it DID melt out the trailer each time.
I would just up the front as high as it would go, and that encouraged the water to head out the back gate.

picture.php
 
that forced air propane works well but i just feel like i need to sit there and watch it constantly.

seems so friggin dangerous, after a long day of riding the last thing i want to do is baby sit a heater so i dont burn my sleds and trailer down, thats why i want a nice electric set up
 
that forced air propane works well but i just feel like i need to sit there and watch it constantly.

seems so friggin dangerous, after a long day of riding the last thing i want to do is baby sit a heater so i dont burn my sleds and trailer down, thats why i want a nice electric set up

I TOTALLY AGREE.
Everytime I used it I felt NERVOUS.
But as the winter wore on I got more and more used to it, and it did work.
 
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