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Trailer Battery -- Determing AH, etc

Im tryin to figure out what kind of battery I'll need for my trailer.

I'm going to make a real effort to make it over nightable.

Its a 2 place enclosed (14 ft box i believe?)

There is a catalytic [passive] heater in the front corner, which exhausts to the outside, unsure of BTU..

Plan is to insulate walls and cealing.

Install a ceiling vent/fan like THIS
Which is .3 - 3.6 amp.

I have 2 small 12v lights..unknown amp draw...but obviously wont be left on for hours at a time anyway.

I'm also considering installing or finding some sorta DC fan that i can mount on the wall just above the heater to move some air as well..no idea what to look for yet on this one..


The fan(s) most likely will run on low? through out the night, and off during the day, with the heat left on low.

Also trying to figure out where/how to carry a roll of carpet, to lay down after the sled(s) are moved out.. Which should help insulate the floor some, and just be a bit more cozy! :)


Anyway, I was looking into the AGM deep cycle batteries.
Something like THIS?
I'm just not sure what sorta AH to look for.


I did overnight once last winter in it...in a snow storm. Ran outta propane in the wee morning hours... It was bearable until the heat went out. I'm hoping insulation will help a bit, and a fan or 2 for circulation?
 
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I have a similar sized 3 place enclosed that I've been modifying for an overnight stay also.

I installed a HUGE blue flame heater on the wall opposite the front ramp which I know will keep it very toasty inside. (30,000 BTU)
I will only be using 12 volts for light if I need to get up to use the port-a-potty in the middle of the night.
The fan/vent cover you're looking at is the best you can get. I have one in my fifth wheel that I leave parked at my property on the beach.
I know it draws a good amount of juice though because when I turn it on the lights dim a bit insaide and that's when it's plugged in to a 30 amp service.
It's still a good isea though if for nothing more tham clearing out all the exhaust and smell from the sleds. I'm thinking of doing the same for mine with the same fan/cover.
I'm only using a single 12 volt, deep cycle battery in mine for the lights though.
I've tested it for how long it will keep the lights on while I was working on the sleds last year and it lasted longer than 2 full days before I had to plug in the charger.
I'm going to install a small, dark tinted window near where I will be putting my fold out, inflatable bed so I always have a source for fresh air.
All I'll need to do is just crack the window a bit, that should be enough.
I've stayed in smaller cabins in the snow with the same type of heater and that's all we did.
I'll also install a Co2 detector and an LP detector just for good measure.

Mine is already insulated and I'll use a roll of indoor/outdoor plush carpet for the floor after I park the sleds outside for the night.

I won't plan on staying more than one night at a time though, Too small and uncomfortable for me and the wife any longer than that.
 
yep, i was thinking 1 maybe 2 nights if i dont feel too miserable after the first night...and wet boots/gear/etc :P

I have a similar sized 3 place enclosed that I've been modifying for an overnight stay also.

I installed a HUGE blue flame heater on the wall opposite the front ramp which I know will keep it very toasty inside. (30,000 BTU)
I will only be using 12 volts for light if I need to get up to use the port-a-potty in the middle of the night.
The fan/vent cover you're looking at is the best you can get. I have one in my fifth wheel that I leave parked at my property on the beach.
I know it draws a good amount of juice though because when I turn it on the lights dim a bit insaide and that's when it's plugged in to a 30 amp service.
It's still a good isea though if for nothing more tham clearing out all the exhaust and smell from the sleds. I'm thinking of doing the same for mine with the same fan/cover.
I'm only using a single 12 volt, deep cycle battery in mine for the lights though.
I've tested it for how long it will keep the lights on while I was working on the sleds last year and it lasted longer than 2 full days before I had to plug in the charger.
I'm going to install a small, dark tinted window near where I will be putting my fold out, inflatable bed so I always have a source for fresh air.
All I'll need to do is just crack the window a bit, that should be enough.
I've stayed in smaller cabins in the snow with the same type of heater and that's all we did.
I'll also install a Co2 detector and an LP detector just for good measure.

Mine is already insulated and I'll use a roll of indoor/outdoor plush carpet for the floor after I park the sleds outside for the night.

I won't plan on staying more than one night at a time though, Too small and uncomfortable for me and the wife any longer than that.
 
I use a 12v Optima deep cycle battery in the 24 foot enclosed. It can run the 25k BTU Suburban heater for 48 hrs nonstop. Never stayed in the trailer onvernight but do use it to dry off the sleds.

If you are going to run lights and a heater along with a fan you may want to step up to 2 batteries. Alot of others swear by using 6v batteries in series but I have no experience with that.



++++ getting a co2/lp detector for safety reasons. should be able to find a combo type at any RV supply place.


What kind of insulation are you plannin on using? I have been thinking about adding some insulation to the roof of mine. Been looking at stuff at Home Depot. They have some 1" stryo type with some shinney aluminium stuff on one side.
 
Install a CO/LEL detector if you plan on sleepin in there...

CO = Carbon Monoxide; CO2 = Carbon Dioxide.... they are different...
 
uuhhhh....no a CO2 detector.....that way you know if your beer is going flat! ;) :beer;


LOL

CO detector is correct...doh
 
I have a 26 ft mirage insulated, 3 12v lights, full stereo and 1 12v deep cycle group 12 (the smaller more square sized battery) I have slept in it no problems, right now I only have a catalytic heater, I open the roof vents, let it get warm (which doesnt take but a few minutes) shut it off and its totally fine in there all night long. Indoor outdoor temp was like 15 and 50 in utah at the shootout when I woke up. I am gunna put in a forced air furnace in it this year and see how that goes. I also have a 1.5 SF solar panel that can maintain the battery all day long while running the stereo.
 
Check out the battery selection at Batteries Plus

They have a store near you in Aurora. They carry every battery you could think of and have some really good prices from what I have seen.

they also have a website batteriesplus.com if you want to see what they got before heading down. Also super knowledgable and can help you with your set up, well at least my local store is.
 
Check out the battery selection at Batteries Plus

They have a store near you in Aurora. They carry every battery you could think of and have some really good prices from what I have seen.

they also have a website batteriesplus.com if you want to see what they got before heading down. Also super knowledgable and can help you with your set up, well at least my local store is.

thanks dizz, i'll check that out online too!


Next: Insulation? Initially I was thinking of using the dense foam (that pink or blue stuff) get it in bulk, cut it up to fit between each pillar.. i as suggested THIS stuff and wondering if it would work as well? better? I could easilly apply this (staple) to the back of the ply wooded walls I have, and simply reinstall the ply wood; and done!?
Seems too simple/good to be true?

Some decent reviews...Anyone actually have first hand experiance? Is a .318" piece of this stuff going to work as well/better than a 1" thick piece of foam insulation??
 
The silver stuff has a R value of O while the styro has a R value of 6.5


So you are going to get way better insulation from the styro but if you put it on the wall you are going to loose 2 inches of width.

Maybe run the styro on top and the silver on the walls?
 
Long term, I haven't had great luck with batteries in the trailer. Just my opnion is to get a small 1000 watt generator (iinverter). By time all was said and done with replacing batteries, it ended up cheaper to have a generator and fill with gass, bam done.
As for insulation in my 32 foot gooseneck when I built it, I went with the aluminum backed foamboard. Simply because if you get any condensatin behind the walls it will ruin the plywood. After cutting foam panels to fit, I used spray foam to totally seal my mistakes in cutting (I'm not a good carpenter). Ayway I went with the foam for moisture repelling, rather that than soaking water ad retaining it like normal insulation will do. Then you get black fungus and it stinks, makes you sick when exposed to it overnight etc...


----- Gimpster -----
 
I run 3 - 12v batteries in series & can run everything in the trailer for a week pretty easy.

I have:

4 - 12v lights
35000 BTU furnace
tv/dvd player
stereo
hot water heater
water pump for the shower
2 - cigerette lighter plugs for charging the cell phones
Carban Dioxide/Monoxide detectors
&.... a few other things I'm sure.

I built a rack underneath the trailer so they don't take up any space inside.

WORKS GREAT & the trailer is for sale in the swapmeet. :-)
Need a longer trailer.

Personally, I feel go with the biggest batteries you can find/afford. You never know when you'll wake up to 4 feet of fresh powder and wanna stay for more than one night.

We strap out carpet to the wall, rolled up, with rubber straps. Also works great. There are pics in the trailer/transport forum.

Hope this helps.
 
3x12v = 36v (in SERIES)

I get 1" foam between the outer wall and inner ply wood wall.

I calced up some square footage, 3383 sq. ft

Using THIS foam board. 9 sheets (3456 sq. ft) @ 13.47 ea = $121.23
Now fitting it is another issue...with some curves where side walls and ceiling merge..
Maybe a few cans of "spray foam insulation" will be in order as well. lol


Thanks all for the tips and suggestions.
 
batts

most rv'ers use the two 6-volt golfcart batteries in series... I have Trojan 6V's in my trailer and they work great. In the winter, however, you get far better performance if you keep them somewhere warm, as long as they are vented properly! And don't run them down below 10.5 volts; that is what they consider a "deep cycle" Also, get the CO detector!!!


We run the 2-6v batts in series in the 5th wheel and it works very well. Much longer runtime than 1-12v. Make sure to get the deep cycle rv batts.
 
most rv'ers use the two 6-volt golfcart batteries in series... I have Trojan 6V's in my trailer and they work great. In the winter, however, you get far better performance if you keep them somewhere warm, as long as they are vented properly! And don't run them down below 10.5 volts; that is what they consider a "deep cycle" Also, get the CO detector!!!

yep, plan is to keep them in the front of the trailer, next to the furnace.
 
The 6 volts generally handle more cycles, but 12volts can work well. I run group 27 batteries in my RV (around 105 amphours). I get them from Costco. Check who makes the batteries, there are only 2 or 3 companies that make them and rebrand them. I prefer the ones made by Johnson Controls. Make sure they are true deep cycle and not used for starting as well.

To figure out your amp-hours, you can use a few formulas:
1. amps=watts/volts
2. amphour=amps*hours used
3. amphour battery required=amphours/.8

You divide your needed amphours by .8 so your battery doesn't go below 80% charge and ruin the battery.

Also like others said, cold is not good for a battery.

I've seen a RV's get by with one battery and a 1000 watt Honda. They run the furnace on the Honda until it goes out of gas, then the battery carries them through until morning.

I've always needed 2 or more batteries to get by if temps are below freezing.
 
Anyone have any experience applying all spray foam on the inside of the trailer? How important is floor insulation if you have carpet? Thanks Loren
 
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