its a 2002 mxz renegade with a 136x15x1.25, was wondering about up grading to a 16 inch width track, does it just go on? or do i have to do modifications, and is it worth it, do you notice any more traction/ flotation?
Track Width?
- Thread starter dwainew
- Start date
you need to grind and smooth off the chaincase bolts inside the tunnel, also it helps if you slip a few washers between the rear suspension dropbrackets and upper shaft to spring the tunnel out a hair to give a bit more clearance.
Thinking about, you might check to see if you couldn't get your hands on some pan head torx or allen bolts just to replace the chaincase bolts, that'd give you a nice rounded head inside the tunnel to keep you from tearing up your track.
what do you want to use the sled for? Can you give up some trail performance for off trail?
Thinking about, you might check to see if you couldn't get your hands on some pan head torx or allen bolts just to replace the chaincase bolts, that'd give you a nice rounded head inside the tunnel to keep you from tearing up your track.
what do you want to use the sled for? Can you give up some trail performance for off trail?
the sled is the wives she comes to the mountains with us, all she does is follow us on our trails, stops and watches us play, she does not make her own trails in the powder
I had an old 440 that I turned into a 144x16 mountain rig. I changed it to a 151x15, I didn't like the 16 wide. It was bad enough that the sled had a wide front end and swaybar, it just felt awkward and hard to maneuver with the wide track.
Wasn't hard to install, I did what has been suggested. I took the chaincase bolts and stuck them in my lathe, rounded and smoothed the heads. Replaced misc bolts with round head versions. Spacers in the rear arm mounts to widen the tunnel. There was a small amount of rubbing as the track drifts side to side when riding, but with the water/snow/ice, there was little friction. As I recall I ground some ribs down on the rear brackets also?
Chris
Wasn't hard to install, I did what has been suggested. I took the chaincase bolts and stuck them in my lathe, rounded and smoothed the heads. Replaced misc bolts with round head versions. Spacers in the rear arm mounts to widen the tunnel. There was a small amount of rubbing as the track drifts side to side when riding, but with the water/snow/ice, there was little friction. As I recall I ground some ribs down on the rear brackets also?
Chris
use rev chain case bolts 1/16 thick bolt head ,the 2 screws in the foot well need to be turned around,screw head on inside,2 rivites in tunnel top up front before drivers,i cut track,looks like challenger cut v on tip of lug,ez
replace bolts one at a time,check driver to window alignment to be safe.
when i did mine big john sold me the track,axle with drivers off a 04 rev went right in,tunnels are same width.cut a notch in rear brackets for side of track or put rev brackets on there flat.
it rubbed a little at first then it clearenced itself.
replace bolts one at a time,check driver to window alignment to be safe.
when i did mine big john sold me the track,axle with drivers off a 04 rev went right in,tunnels are same width.cut a notch in rear brackets for side of track or put rev brackets on there flat.
it rubbed a little at first then it clearenced itself.
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Oops, forgot about the footwell bolts. Oh, the steering hoop bolts had to be turned around also. (Heads on the inside are thinner than nuts.)
R
rhino
Active member
you might consider putting an old 144 track on it. Plenty of those laying around form when the early summit guys all went longer. My wife has same sled and thats what we did. pretty easy and cheap way to go. It really helped that sled out too with the longer paddles and track length vs the 136 with short paddles.
