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Track tension

M

m8matt

Well-known member
I adjusted my track to Polaris specs. This is the 1st time I actually hung a 10 pound weight , 16 inches from the rear axle ect ect. I am a long time cat guy, you can run those tracks pretty lose. Does the Polaris track really need to be this tight? It has really made the rolling resistance noticeably not as easy. Is everyone running them this tight?
 
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Rolling resistance on a stand has nothing to do with riding conditions. There is a battlefield of opposing opinions on this though, and I'm sure your about to hear alot of them.... I chose to run my tracks as per polaris specs, and advice from highly knowledgeable and respected individuals on forums like this one.

I purposely loosened my track up on my 900rmk one day to try it, and I could not reach the high mark I had previously left. Not scientific or extensive research, but proof enough for me.
 
2012 pro 163
i need to do this and check my track.... my sled seemed to lose power when i hit the bumps and then shoot back into the power band after the bounce.. so I loosened my track 1/2 to 3/4 turn on the adjuster screws (in the field) and my RPM shot up 2-300 on top..and held there solid... so that is telling me my track was way too tight from the factory
 
Something else to add into this discussion is suspention settings.

I have found if you go very far from the suspention settings, as your manual states it should be, you can get the above posters experience.

Run the RTS too soft and you will feel the track binding on the drive train and viza-verza lol. IMO part of the sensitivity of RTS preload and greatly varied opinion of this suspentions capabilities has a lot to do with the track tension required and spring preloads people pick.
If you would like to prove this theory find a deep pocket of snow and bound around until it is filled with deep soft holes (YEEHAW LOL). Now stop and reduce your RTS preload by 5 turns (to make your sled more flickable lol according to the owners manual). Then pound through what you just destroyed and watch your tach hunt for rpm. Put it back and watch your rpm stabilize.

I would say if your going to change rear springs by very much (and run the track this tight) you should do it in pairs. This is a dialed package as delivered.
 
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i set mine at 1" with 10lbs on the track. slp makes a very slick track tension tool. i use that thing A LOT!!!

is 1" too tight still? i also thought that 1/2"-3/4" seemed way too tight
 
If you have a loose track the slack has to go somewhere. When you put power to it the track will come off the drivers and shoot straight down. This ruins the attack angle of the track and may cause trenching.
 
I think with the possible relation of track tension to quickdrive failures it's better to run it on the tight side.
 
My track does not turn easy on the stand when track is tight as per polaris speck.
When I pull away from the truck (cold) it feels like the brake is on for a few miles.
I loosened the track a bit and the drag is better, but i still fee like I have some drag in the drivetrain somewhere. Could be why my R's are down a bit.??
 
My track does not turn easy on the stand when track is tight as per polaris speck.
When I pull away from the truck (cold) it feels like the brake is on for a few miles.
I loosened the track a bit and the drag is better, but i still fee like I have some drag in the drivetrain somewhere. Could be why my R's are down a bit.??
kenClimb
I would check your top belt pulley bolt torque, make sure it is at 30 lbs.
You may be starting to see failure of the bearing on that shaft
 
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