Track swap 24 pro 165

[Cb850]

How big a job is this? Couple hours?
4 bolts and the skid is out.
One bolt on the bottom pulley from the belt drive.
Couple bolts for the bearing retainer under the secondary clutch?

Anything I missed? TIA

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

How big a job is this? Couple hours?
4 bolts and the skid is out.
One bolt on the bottom pulley from the belt drive.
Couple bolts for the bearing retainer under the secondary clutch?

Anything I missed? TIA

18-25 minutes.

Work on it tipped on its side so gravity helps you get the shaft out and then flip it so gravity helps you get it in.

Track stays neutral when sled is on its side.

Block up the loose side of the track to match tunnel height.

Putting the QD back on is best with it tipped on it's side also.

Start the bottom sprocket with the belt riding high on it, then lean on the top sprocket stretching the belt and start it on the splines.

Soft rubber mallet tap both on the splines.

 

[Cb850]

Awesome I hadn't thought of that!! Makes sense. Does either side of the shaft need the bearings removed or do they stay on the shaft when it comes out?

 

[Ultrasauras]

Quick drive brg stays in place clutch side brg stays on the drive shaft.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Quick drive brg stays in place clutch side brg stays on the drive shaft.

^^^

No pullers needed, no special tools, no oil draining.

Much easier than in the past or with brands living in the past.

 

[JH@CM]

+1 to what everyone said.

It's a little easier to get the drive shaft in with a 2.75". Especially with a new one, 3.25" takes some sweat to get pushed up far enough to let the shaft slide all the way back into the lower QD hole

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

+1 to what everyone said.

It's a little easier to get the drive shaft in with a 2.75". Especially with a new one, 3.25" takes some sweat to get pushed up far enough to let the shaft slide all the way back into the lower QD hole

Big zip ties on 6 lugs through the ports to temporarily bend them over and everything falls together.

 

[Cb850]

Perfect sounds pretty simple thanks for all the replies and helpful info!!!

 

[Cb850]

So the old factory loctite was yellow on the quick drive bolts and the driveshaft bearing cover and mount. Yellow seems like it doesn't exist anymore in the permatex line. Just juse blue?
Or the new orange that's supposedly to hold like red and loosen like blue?
Little worried the orange would snap the t 40 bolts off on the bearing cap

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

So the old factory loctite was yellow on the quick drive bolts and the driveshaft bearing cover and mount. Yellow seems like it doesn't exist anymore in the permatex line. Just juse blue?
Or the new orange that's supposedly to hold like red and loosen like blue?
Little worried the orange would snap the t 40 bolts off on the bearing cap

Blue is good.

Clean the old stuff out of the hole.

Poo recommends using new bolts. (I did and made the originals spares / put on a new belt and kept the 500 mile one for a spare.

 

[Cb850]

Got those in and torqued to 44lbs. I did reuse the same bolt and I hope that doesn't bite me
Down to just reinstalling skid and tensioning. So hopefully last question. Skid frame bolts no loctite since they have lock washers? And after the Google rabbit hole it looks like 46lbs front torque arm to tunnel and 33lbs rear top idler shaft?

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Got those in and torqued to 44lbs. I did reuse the same bolt and I hope that doesn't bite me
Down to just reinstalling skid and tensioning. So hopefully last question. Skid frame bolts no loctite since they have lock washers? And after the Google rabbit hole it looks like 46lbs front torque arm to tunnel and 33lbs rear top idler shaft?

No loctite on skid bolts.

 

[JH@CM]

Big zip ties on 6 lugs through the ports to temporarily bend them over and everything falls together.

I only used two, pulling the outside paddles in opposite directions on two subsequent rows of lugs. Made life much much easier. Great tip!

Also, you'll notice on most modern sleds that the factory skid bolts do have some applied (Polaris skid bolt, #7519223, has pre applied yellow thread locker). While it may be a little harder to remove, I put some blue on those bolts too when re-installing. Rather hit them for another half second an impact disassembling than have it back out unexpectedly. Up to you.

 

[Pickin’ Boogers]

18-25 minutes.

I wish this was true for me! I've done it enough times to feel like I have it dialed, but from start to finish there's no way I get it done that quickly. I'll bet it's 20 minutes just to get the tools out and lower gear/secondary/bearing retainer removed. Then another 20 minutes for the skid/track/driveshaft removal. Next, I start wrestling the new track into place, which never goes smoothly so I can't estimate the time for it. Then another 20 minutes to get the skid bolts lined up and back in, and another 20 to get the lower gear/secondary/bearing retainer re-assembled. 80 minutes without the track wrestling, so an hour and a half minimum for me.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I only used two, pulling the outside paddles in opposite directions on two subsequent rows of lugs. Made life much much easier. Great tip!

Also, you'll notice on most modern sleds that the factory skid bolts do have some applied (Polaris skid bolt, #7519223, has pre applied yellow thread locker). While it may be a little harder to remove, I put some blue on those bolts too when re-installing. Rather hit them for another half second an impact disassembling than have it back out unexpectedly. Up to you.

Yeah i just hate when the shaft spins in the suspension arm from the loctite.

I've had the lower shock shaft bolts come loose on the front track shock.

But never the skid mounting bolts. (Assuming they got tightened in the first place)

 

[JH@CM]

Yeah i just hate when the shaft spins in the suspension arm from the loctite.

Agreed, and I originally learned on ski-doos (which for whatever reason are harder) that you have to break one side free, then re-snug and then get the other side free. Then they come out a bit easier.

Swapping tracks/skids is one of those things you hope not to do too regularly, but lately I've been on a roll. Every time I get faster. Power tools for the win!

 

[Cb850]

Ok so 6 solid hours for me with a lot of 2nd guessing myself and not great tools. I didn't loctite the skid bolts but did torque them. I didn't use the zip tie thing but that alone would save me an hour or so next time. Still can't guess why the front two bolts would have a different spec then the back two when they are all the same size

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Ok so 6 solid hours for me with a lot of 2nd guessing myself and not great tools. I didn't loctite the skid bolts but did torque them. I didn't use the zip tie thing but that alone would save me an hour or so next time. Still can't guess why the front two bolts would have a different spec then the back two when they are all the same size

Quarter inch drive impact
Half inch drive inpact
Impact rated wobble
6in extension
T40 socket
15mm shallow socket
17mm shallow socket

As mentioned. Maybe 20-25 minutes if the track wants to be fiesta going in.

Half inch impact for all the belt drive and skid bolts. Quarter for the t40s. Then Quarter drive impact to reinstall everything so you don't nuke any threads. Whatever my Quarter drive makita does for torque seems to be acceptable for all the fasteners as I've done it a couple hundred times with no issues

 

[Lobster Carl]

When i do a track swap I chuck out the t40 bolts and replace them with hex head bolts.

 

[Cb850]

Yeah I was really slow and cautious. I could see getting it down to a few hours but 25 minutes is damn fast!!!!