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track stabbing?

your rails going into the track, bam.. running loose limiters, no anti stab kit, skid set up, all can play a factor. most tracks these days have a pitch of 3.0 or near which allows it to happen easier because of the bigger window in the track. anti stab kits are cheap or make one yourself, money and time well spent..
 
The way i understand it is as the track comes off the drivers it has a tendency to continue following the path of the drivers in a circle which will increase or decrease with track speed and/or drag on the track or track tension. this causes a convex wave in the track or another way to look at it is the track wants to bunch up in the area between the drivers and the tips of the suspension rails. while all this is happening the skid rails are moving up and down along with slightly moving forward and backward as the suspension travels . if the conditions are perfect the rails are moving forward as ths track is getting bunched up causing a rail tip to snag an open window of the track and get caught. the only other way is if you hit something hard enough with the front of the track it will flex the track in the same way causing the same result. Someone on here i am sure will have a better explanation i am sure
 
this causes a convex wave in the track...

Hit the nail on the head with that statement. I've been the unfortunate victim of a particularly violent track stab incident. I had a 162x16x2.5 3.0 pitch Challenger Extreme on my 900 Mountain Cat stab the rails in a full throttle near vertical climb. The track stop was so violent it threw me about 20 feet over the handlebars uphill. I for sure thought I somehow had to of hit a stump or possibly the Empire State Building, but I rolled over my sled and about 3 windows were completely through the rails on both sides of the track. I had to pull my folding saw and cut the window dividers out, pull out the entire rear suspension, re-assemble the windows with bailing wire, and then remove all the bogey wheels (except for one sides top idler and the rear wheel kit to keep track tension) to limp out at about 10 MPH. We were about 30 miles back when this happened and it took me about 3 hours to get out, but I didn't have to leave my sled in the woods.

I did have an anti-stab kit on the front rails (HPS 2 wheel kit) but apparently the bolts backed out and I lost it somewhere the week before and didn't notice it. After inspection I found that I ran over a very small, maybe calf-high Evergreen and that was enough to put that driver-to-rail wave into action and cause the windows to loop over the rail tips. Most people who track stab do it when they are in a high-HP wheelie or tailwalk.

When I bought the track it was right when it came out and I think I paid about $875 with shipping. Replaced it with another track that cost about $600 and wasn't as nice and another set of used rails for $200 shipped. Ended up being a $1675 accident and I ended up having a worse track than before. Lesson learned.... check your $50 anti-stab kit before you go! CHEAP INSURANCE.
 
The way i understand it is as the track comes off the drivers it has a tendency to continue following the path of the drivers in a circle which will increase or decrease with track speed and/or drag on the track or track tension. this causes a convex wave in the track or another way to look at it is the track wants to bunch up in the area between the drivers and the tips of the suspension rails. while all this is happening the skid rails are moving up and down along with slightly moving forward and backward as the suspension travels . if the conditions are perfect the rails are moving forward as ths track is getting bunched up causing a rail tip to snag an open window of the track and get caught. the only other way is if you hit something hard enough with the front of the track it will flex the track in the same way causing the same result. Someone on here i am sure will have a better explanation i am sure

Hit the nail on the head! This is the best def there is.
 
Hit the nail on the head with that statement. I've been the unfortunate victim of a particularly violent track stab incident. I had a 162x16x2.5 3.0 pitch Challenger Extreme on my 900 Mountain Cat stab the rails in a full throttle near vertical climb. The track stop was so violent it threw me about 20 feet over the handlebars uphill. I for sure thought I somehow had to of hit a stump or possibly the Empire State Building, but I rolled over my sled and about 3 windows were completely through the rails on both sides of the track. I had to pull my folding saw and cut the window dividers out, pull out the entire rear suspension, re-assemble the windows with bailing wire, and then remove all the bogey wheels (except for one sides top idler and the rear wheel kit to keep track tension) to limp out at about 10 MPH. We were about 30 miles back when this happened and it took me about 3 hours to get out, but I didn't have to leave my sled in the woods.

I did have an anti-stab kit on the front rails (HPS 2 wheel kit) but apparently the bolts backed out and I lost it somewhere the week before and didn't notice it. After inspection I found that I ran over a very small, maybe calf-high Evergreen and that was enough to put that driver-to-rail wave into action and cause the windows to loop over the rail tips. Most people who track stab do it when they are in a high-HP wheelie or tailwalk.

When I bought the track it was right when it came out and I think I paid about $875 with shipping. Replaced it with another track that cost about $600 and wasn't as nice and another set of used rails for $200 shipped. Ended up being a $1675 accident and I ended up having a worse track than before. Lesson learned.... check your $50 anti-stab kit before you go! CHEAP INSURANCE.

My anti stab kit was in and my track was fine but I have also had times where I felt like I hit the Empire State Building, after further looking the building actualy did not teleport and come under my sled, got lucky on that one. But in all seriousness I 100% agree that dont ride without an anti stab kit, chances are your track wont stab even without it if everything is in tacked with your rails, sliders, track ect. But dont take the chances or it happening because it still does happen! Even if you have an anti stab kit, that doesnt mean you can let the sliders wear out, run your track way to loose or tight, just keep everything in good condition and an anti stab kit and youll be fine.
 
And this is what happens when you do stab one. Rev's aren't known for doing it, but i tend to run my limiters strap loose (I like to wheelie) and the rubber bumpers on the front of the rails were worn down. You see the result, I'm lucky it happened when and where it did.

IMG_3004.jpg IMG_3006.jpg
 
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