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Track hole saw

S

SNOWBOUNDRMK

New member
I am looking for the link to who sells the 1 1/4" hole saw designed for punching out tracks. I have seen it before but have not been able to find it. Thanks for the help.
 
Last Year i just used a regular old fashion style hole saw and ported the track had no problems... sure it had some frays but then take a lighter adn burn the frays a bit... i would send a pic but resently traded it off and got a new sled... it worked great to keep the snow out of the track when you get stuck and on a 151 i lost about 4.5 pounds.
 
I also used a regular hole saw. The first 2 holes were ragged. After that the saw was heated up enough to take care of any frays. I went back and cauterized the first two holes with the saw. The key was to pre-drill with a template. That way the saw didn't cool. Just watch your fingers when pulling the plugs out of the saw. Very expensive mod - $3.18 for the hole saw. Two years and no frays. Bout 3+ lbs lost, 2 holes middle, 151.
 
This is the most common pattern I have seen in several porting threads... 3 holes in the middle... I believe it was a regular 1 inch or 1-1/4 inch hole saw...


100_2398.jpg
 
I was told how to do this by track distributer.
I jacked sled up in the back so I could sit comfortably and be able to rotate track easily.
First off I made a template to drill pilot hole and then a template to use holesaw.
I ran the hole saw in reverse so i didn't pull on any cords and also creates enough heat to make layers bond together,also didn't stop till all holes were finished.
All my holes bonded nicely and after a season of riding had no threads come out.

Dave

1547.jpg 1549.jpg
 
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Buy a 1 1/4 or 1 hole saw at the hardwear store and then grind all the teeth off of it to make more of an edge than teeth. This way it melts through the track and burns off all the frayed cords on the way through instead of tearing through the track and cords.
 
I was told how to do this by track distributer.
I jacked sled up in the back so I could sit comfortably and be able to rotate track easily.
First off I made a template to drill pilot hole and then a template to use holesaw.
I ran the hole saw in reverse so i didn't pull on any cords and also creates enough heat to make layers bond together,also didn't stop till all holes were finished.
All my holes bonded nicely and after a season of riding had no threads come out.

Dave

Now that's the proper way to do it, only thing to change is don't port in front of center (shovel) paddle always go behind it.
 
Last edited:
Buy a 1 1/4 or 1 hole saw at the hardwear store and then grind all the teeth off of it to make more of an edge than teeth. This way it melts through the track and burns off all the frayed cords on the way through instead of tearing through the track and cords.

I love the 1 1/4 porting on high HP sleds keeps me in buisness.:eek:
 
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