Track Clip Removal??

[thump426er]

I have an 06 M7 with an Attack 20 which I am about to take off and put a Challenger Extr 2.5 on. My Attack 20 is clipped every other clip location, the new track is clipped every clip location. Can I remove every other clip on my new track to lose a bit of weight and make it the same, every other clip location as the stock Attack 20? Is there a downside to this and is it even worth the effort for the weight that will come off? Thanks for any input here.

 

[FEZ]

It is ok to remove every other and it will remove a couple lbs.

I cut mine off with an air grinder.

 

[Storyboy]

I'd leave them on, much less resistance.

 

[skibreeze]

I'd leave them on also, much less hyfax issues.

 

[omernikski]

I'll sell you a track clip removal removal tool.

 

[thump426er]

hmmmmm, thanks, didn't think of those last 2 comments.

 

[Mr. Weed]

I'd leave them on. Hifax wear can be a pain - especially the 3rd clipped ones. If u want to save weight - take of some wheels instead. Or - port the track to save weight and help get rid of snow build up.

Its also hard on belts because the hifax heats up more on low snow trails and tends to stick to the track when u stop.

I hate my new track because I need to be very careful of low snow running (even though I have scratchers). Burnt one set of hifax in 50 miles. If I'm more careful they seem to last more like 500 miles. But not like my old fully clipped track that had no issues.

 

[RMKen]

I'd leave them on, I have put the missing clips in my last two machines and plan on doing the new Dragon I got this year. I first noticed it when I had to push my sleds off my truck deck, never seamed to be a problem until I got a sled that wasn't fully clipped, then it was more of a push. Clipped the track and it pushed off with little effort.
Guys buy big wheel kits to cut down rolling resistance but still run with a half clipped track, I can't figure that one out.
My .02

 

[Mr. Weed]

I'd leave them on, I have put the missing clips in my last two machines and plan on doing the new Dragon I got this year. I first noticed it when I had to push my sleds off my truck deck, never seamed to be a problem until I got a sled that wasn't fully clipped, then it was more of a push. Clipped the track and it pushed off with little effort.
Guys buy big wheel kits to cut down rolling resistance but still run with a half clipped track, I can't figure that one out.
My .02

Seems all of the new sleds are eliminating clips for some reason - just to save a tiny bit of weight?? I had to put wheels back on when I got my 3rd clipped track - which more than put back on the weight. And I agree fully with the rolling resistance point. Not smart. Also - now need to run scratchers much more than I used to - not just on iced trails anymore.

And - u cant run hyperfax either when the track isnt fully clipped. And if your windows are all open - u cant use speed buttons either.

 

[exman04]

if you do remove some clips, only take them off where there isnt a paddle. i went accross a lake that was almost two miles, and the clipps under the paddles were blue from the heat, and the others wernt discollered at all. like the other guys said drill the track. it will eliminate about 40 lbs of snow build up in the tunnel.

 

[Wolfrun]

I would think it best to leave the clips on. I just changed from a 136 track that had every third window open and clipped to a 159 track fully opened and clipped and the 159 rolls so much easier it is almost unbelievable. Rubber on the hifax generates terrific heat. Just my .02 cents.

 

[SnowSnob]

Interesting, I was thinking about removing a few clips off my new track but after reading this I think I'll leave them on.
Makes sense I guess. Suxs they have to use heavy metal clips, you'd think there'd be something out there better...I suppose it comes down to $$$.

 

[BackCountryBob]

Consider installing track buttons. Inexpensive, light weight and they worked on my 02 HMX-800. I think I got them from SLP.

BCB