track clearance issues for IQ RAW (AND PRO CHASSIS RMK & ASSAULTS)
- Thread starter Polar Express
- Start date
Yeah, after all this shenanigans, suggestions and wild-goose chases, I'm planning on the drop and roll kit, ch-ex 2.5" lug (2.86 pitch) track, and if i get snow build up or issues there, i'll swap out the drivers at a later time.
But, I have really enjoyed the process of this thread. I have learned a lot, (I'm sure I have lots more to learn) and I'm that much more excited about my new sled.
Thanks to all who contributed and shared their knowledge and opinions!
But, I have really enjoyed the process of this thread. I have learned a lot, (I'm sure I have lots more to learn) and I'm that much more excited about my new sled.
Thanks to all who contributed and shared their knowledge and opinions!
I just ordered a set of Avid 7 tooth combo drivers for my RMK, so that I can install my new 153 power claw. I went with the 7 tooth to get a little more clearance, and to make the set rear idlers set farther back. I must say however that I still have lots of clearance with my stock 2.4" under my sled, I probally have about 3/8" of clearance, which is wierd after seeing the rubbing marks on other RMKs. It makes me wonder if you guys have your tracks tight enough, my stock set up only had two drivers, so I have it set just tight enough that it wont ratchet. On a side note I also ordered the Avid chaincase cover, to replace the plastic cover that you must use silicone on.
With dropping to those 7-tooth drivers, are you planning on running an anti-stab kit or ???? I'm curious.
The Avid drivers are NOT compatible with the Power Claw tracks... I've already tried... as has Jkinzer.
You will either need to cut all the involute driver teeth off the outside of both the Avid drivers or cut every other mini guide nub off the track. I would recommend neither. [See the photos below]
The Power Claw track does not have involute driver nubs on the outside of the driver/clip windows... just 1/3-sized guide "nubs" that help keep the track in line.
The Avid drivers are designed to drive off of the involute nubs, just like stock, UNLESS the track starts to ratchet... then the teeth of the driver catch the track.
95% of the time... the teeth of an Avid driver are not designed to be in contact with the track.
The small "guide nubs" do not even touch the involute cogs of the driver... even after removing the ones inline with the driver window... This creates a situation where only 2 rows, compared to 4 stock or other tracks, are trying to drive the track most of the time.. this puts tremendous strain on the the 1 row of involute nubs on each side and creates strange side loading of the driver that can cause the drivers to "walk" on the shaft.
Dub on the forum here had this problem with the Avids and the PowerClaw that he ran all last season. He runs a machine shop and had to make a custom sleeve and weld tabs to the driveshaft to keep this "walking" from happening with the Avid drivers that he modded to run the Powerclaw. This "walking" will still occur even if you only trim the nubs
The only direct fit driver, right now, for the PC's on the Tubular Polaris shaft is the PPD driver from SLP/Carls/Wahl bros. It is an 8 tooth driver that gives less clearance, even with the shorter lug height, than the stock Dragon track.
You will either need to modify the drivers or modify the track. The PC tracks are different than other tracks.
I have made a gauge to measure track clearace on the 2.4" stock tracks... just a hair over 1/4" at the roof of the tunnel.
You are absolutely correct about track tension. Loose tracks DO rub, all the agressive riders on Dragons (07-09) that I have looked into the tunnels on have rub marks... even with proper tension. Looser than stock settings also changes the way the track works... if it is not tight, the paddles lay down more as the track flexes and gives less than optimal performance.
Even with Combo drivers, if you want optimal performance from your track, use the stock tension recommendations.... Not just my opinion, but the engineers at Camoplast as well.. they make 95% of the tracks on our mountain sleds.... This is in addition to the clearance issues that are made worse with a loose track at speed.
Loose tracks may "pull" easier with the sled off the ground... but that is not the case with the sled in motion, with the weight of the sled on the track and drivers turning the track... rippling as it is pushed down the hyfax.
You can't compare the power required to turn track being pulled by hand on a stand and one that is in use, under power with traction... these are two completely different scenarios.
Power Claw Track
Dubs Driveshaft with the modified Avid drivers and spacer tube with welded tabs on the outside to keep the drivers from "walking" on the driveshaft.
Now... If you say that YOU, or your best friends uncles bosses mechanic, run unmodified Avid drivers on a stock (uncut) PC track in an IQ-RMK without problems...Then please post up some pics of your driver & track installed.
Well that sucks, I guess I just blew $240 bucks for something I cant use. I had thought that I had read in previous post that the 7-tooth avid drivers were a option. I didnt notice that the power claw had those goofy mini nubs, I will have to look at some cat drivers to see how they are set up.
Don't feel bad my friend... Kinzer and I both thought that the Avids would work.
The Cat drivers are offset... but none for The polaris shaft...
You can run the involute drivers from PPD avail thru SLP/Carls/Wahl Bros.
If you can find a 1.25" Hex driveshaft that is made for the Polaris IQ RMK's.... then you could run a cat driver... but I dont know of any available.
The Cat drivers are offset... but none for The polaris shaft...
You can run the involute drivers from PPD avail thru SLP/Carls/Wahl Bros.
If you can find a 1.25" Hex driveshaft that is made for the Polaris IQ RMK's.... then you could run a cat driver... but I dont know of any available.
I think they are 1" or 1.0625"...edge shafts.
Fastrax makes edge shafts.... Maybe they'll make a 1.25" for these sukkkas???
You listening Curt???
Fastrax makes edge shafts.... Maybe they'll make a 1.25" for these sukkkas???
You listening Curt???
that what i was thinkin, get a shaft made up
I plan on running the SLP anti stab kit, and now plan on grinding every other mini nub off of the powerclaw track. I think that will work, and will reconfirm my thoughts once I start the project in a few weeks.
Whal bros. Racing
Well, this thread woke back up.
That sucks for everyone who was buying the avid products thinking they would work on the PC track.
I have ordered the Ch-Ex track, and I plan to use the Whal Bros. Drivers that are in development stages right now.
I wonder if a call to Dave @ Whal Bros. would help the power claw buyers? perhaps their driver will be shaped such that you can run the PC track? I dunno.
It always sucks when you spend hard-earned money on something new that won't work.
Can you guys send the PC track back, get a credit and , and go with the CH-Ex track? I know there will be clearance issues, but those can be dealt with....
Well, this thread woke back up.
That sucks for everyone who was buying the avid products thinking they would work on the PC track.
I have ordered the Ch-Ex track, and I plan to use the Whal Bros. Drivers that are in development stages right now.
I wonder if a call to Dave @ Whal Bros. would help the power claw buyers? perhaps their driver will be shaped such that you can run the PC track? I dunno.
It always sucks when you spend hard-earned money on something new that won't work.
Can you guys send the PC track back, get a credit and , and go with the CH-Ex track? I know there will be clearance issues, but those can be dealt with....
S
Spaarky
Well-known member
You were reading my mind... I thought it seemed like Curt made somthing. Maybe that was just a jackshaft conversion.
The more I look at it, I'm wondering about just putting a notch in the driver so that it clears the mini nub, I will take a closer look when my drivers come in next week. Seems like dubs set up was a little overboard, but if it works it works.
TTT interesting read.
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
I also thought I had seen something the other day? Maybe it was only a jack shaft like you say.
I'll also add, how are you guys finding the new whal drivers to be holding up? I bought a pair of 8 tooth for my old gen two, (Now the back up sled) and they didn't fit right with the track. Both were the same pitch, but I was getting a mushroom affect on the extrovert part of the driver. Heard reports of others having the same problem. Not a very good picture, but you can see on the top part of the driver nub how it's mushroomed out. It's worsened since. But I'll keep running them as they don't slip. And I'm not loosing track clips.
Midge907,
After your post, I took a better look at the PC track with your idea in mind. It would appear, that if you were going to mod one component to fit the other, you'd be better off removing nubs on the track. That row of little nubs on the PC, if you take off every other nub, the driver will work fine.
I would be interested to see how the ch-ex and the pc compare in side by side comparisons, and what snow conditions each does better in.
Fastrax did do a driveshaft conversion for a few fellas up on Canada. I'm not totally sure, but I think this was early on in IQ RAW timeline, and before AVID drivers were available for the larger tube-style driveshaft. After doing the drop and roll, switching to that hex shaft design, you might be able to remove and install the driveshaft without having to remove the chaincase, not sure about that.
After your post, I took a better look at the PC track with your idea in mind. It would appear, that if you were going to mod one component to fit the other, you'd be better off removing nubs on the track. That row of little nubs on the PC, if you take off every other nub, the driver will work fine.
I would be interested to see how the ch-ex and the pc compare in side by side comparisons, and what snow conditions each does better in.
Fastrax did do a driveshaft conversion for a few fellas up on Canada. I'm not totally sure, but I think this was early on in IQ RAW timeline, and before AVID drivers were available for the larger tube-style driveshaft. After doing the drop and roll, switching to that hex shaft design, you might be able to remove and install the driveshaft without having to remove the chaincase, not sure about that.
wow, great info here!
So to a person who was not in the market for a new track, but wants to get the most performance out of his 2.4 inch lug track, he should trim them perhaps?
So to a person who was not in the market for a new track, but wants to get the most performance out of his 2.4 inch lug track, he should trim them perhaps?
