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Totally busted Torque Limiter - Switching to chain drive

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TLKDPROD

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2008
592
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Salmon Arm, BC
I was going through some of my footage from last year a few days ago and there's a shot that I was able to hear my something ratcheting relly bad. It was either the torque limiter slipping relly bad or the wheels driving the track. And I just remember hearing looooooooots'a that last season, almost every time I would load the suspension going up a hill with the gas floored, it would do it. Looked at an old thread where chain drive was mentionned, exchanged a few emails with cjgodden.

Then decided to took my torque limiter apart to have a look at it. Theorically, you should open it and clean it every 10 hours, this is something I've never done and that may explain what I was about to see... It was pretty unexpected.... Have a look at the pictures below.

Both asbestos disks are hardly damaged and cracked and one of the 2 is actually broken in two pieces. The core, locked on the shaft by the taper lock bushings, is grinded down by something turning in there big time. All the other disks show major sign of slippage.

I would be really curious to have a look at Cailen's 136 torque limiter or somebody else that has a 136 who rides hard to see how bad it can be on a 136. Mine is an '08 800 144" by the way. But honestly, I just think the Torque limiter isn't a good thing for 800 long tracks snow-hawks. I remembered 2 times having to bail halfway up a hill because that system was only allowing , like, 3/4 of the total amount of horses to the track. Of course it's a security system that protects ADB, so they don't have to give warranty on a countershaft or some other broken components such as bearing maybe... I really don't see any good side of that for me... One sure thing is this system doesn't allow us to get the most out of our Hawks... If the belt or the countershaft breaks because of a more powerful motor, don't put a system that limits the torque ! Find something or build something that will be able to take the extra amount of power, FÂÄAÄÄK ! That's the way I think ! ... all right that's enough, you got my point here anyway... Sorry for that !

Since there is no way I'll put this back on, I'll be working at installing a chain drive to replace the belt driven Torque slipper. CJGodden seem to be the first guy being intersted of fixing the problem, he's got a good chain drive setup, has had it for a season now and so far no problems he said. Got some precious info from his experience. So we can't really overtorque the pressure bolts on the torque limiter, of course you'll get rid of the slipping but you'll end up going through a 200ishh$ cog belt every 4-5 rides... So chain drive then becomes the only decent solution and the simplest/cheapest as well according to me.

Apparently we may have problems with the countershaft if we lock the secondary transmission like I'll do that but my Hawk's got the steel countershaft (probably like all the '08 I think) so i'm pretty happy I won't have to machine one down for it. And if it breaks, I'll make one out of Titanium, that, is not a problem !!! I may have to look at my lower bearings... I remembered still a little too good about that February 17th, sunday at Hawkfest in the dark... being pulled by a rental fanner Polaris with Tony driving it and me behind with no light on one of his 600's that has had the following problem; the bearings were cheap qrap from china and got destroyed by the torque probably. You could see the chips coming out of them... So I'll probably get some nice quality SKF or NTN just to make sure I don't end up having to be towed because of that...

If one of you guys just converted to a long track for next season, you may end up with this problem... At least now we are aware of it and know what to do to solve it !

Looking forward to do the conversion soon.

HPIM0640.jpg HPIM0644.jpg HPIM0646.jpg HPIM0647.jpg
 
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TLKDPROD

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2008
592
54
28
Salmon Arm, BC
Besides all the issues I had with Snow-Hawks for 2 seasons now, I just wanted to say that, still, THIS IS THE MOST AWESOME MACHINE I'VE RIDDEN IN MY WHOLE LIFE !
 
S
Nov 27, 2007
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I'll pay shipping for your toasted TLS parts. I have an experiment I would like to try, but not shell our for a new TLS to destroy. If the chain lets go, how will you get on the 'hawk with only one leg?:eek: Be sure to use a rivit link and not a clip link for a master!
 
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TLKDPROD

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2008
592
54
28
Salmon Arm, BC
I PM'ed you SnowHawk jockey.

Good question about the leg... I don't want to think about it too much so that's why I'll order a really good chain, probably a 530XSOZ X-Ring chain from RK Chain, apparently 9200lbs tension resistant. 530 chain is what they put on high-horsepwer Super sport Motorcycle like R1 or GSX-R. Of course there's plenty of quality but the one I'll put on will be a good one and it should be enough not to snap and eventually rip my leg/foot off.

What i'm concerned about as well is if the chain breaks and snaps some of the motor magneto parts... That won't be cool at all...

I may add a guard.
 
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TLKDPROD

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2008
592
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28
Salmon Arm, BC
All right folks, I finally did it...

As some may have read on another post, I dumped the Belt drive.

Here's what the final result looks like. Got quite a bit of work done to it.
Haven't weight it but it has to be very close to the TLS system. Even more meterial could be removed on the bottom sprocket (thinner hub & more holes) but I decided to play it safe.

Gearing : 13-28 (very close to the same ratio as a 146-154" Summit)

Tip : if you do it and want the 2:1 ratio, do it woith 15-30, don't do it with 14-28 !!! It won't work ! Chain is either too long (touches in the middle when you tighten idler) or too !short if you take a link off !!! That's whay I went 13-28... Should be interesting to see the results as I'm still trying to get the problem of steady RPM in the deep snow fixed, Still loosing a bit when I make a hard turn or when I hit a deeper spot. More secondary spring force might be the key here but I'll give a try to this gearing first !

I think it looks good and it clears my mind with the question "am I gonna blow my 200$ belt today ? " By the way, I think my dog agrees with that !

Hey have a good week end all, headin to Whistler to ride with WhistlerHawk in a few minutes !!! :D:D:D:D

Thierry's chain drive setup 1.jpg Thierry's chain drive setup 2.jpg Thierry's chain drive setup 3.jpg Thierry's chain drive setup 4.jpg
 
I
Jan 4, 2008
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Palmer AK.
Looks good. Let me know how ya like it .. NO how you LOVE it because I will never go back to the tls and I doubt that you will after riding it. and Playing with your gearing. Later :cool::beer;:beer;:D
 
T

TLKDPROD

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2008
592
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28
Salmon Arm, BC
It passed the test !

Worked out great ! I consider this mod a must for whoever has a major ratcheting / cog belt issues. The 3 of us had the mod last weekend (WhistlerHawk (159"), his cousin (159") and I (144"))

A good thing is it'll be nice to play with final gearing now ! I'll have a few other sprockets made up this summer or upcoming fall, maybe a 29, a 27 & a 26. (I already got a 13, 14 & 28)

Another good thing about that is due to the fact that we can put the chain/sprocket line closer to the frame/bearings, there will be less leverage ration applied on the shaft, so less load on the bearings. Plus a chain is not something you bind like the belt so we may get longer driveshaft bearing life with this system.

13-28 worked out ok, I switched on clicker 6 and finally got there (7950 rpm) but I exploded a drive belt... first time in my life... That wet whistler snow is really different from what I usually ride on. Good thing I went down on my gearing...

The downside of it is it's probably gonna be dirty compared to the cog belt.
CjGodden & IBBroken, do you lube your chain or just leave it like that since it's not directly exposed to the elements ?
 
C

cjgodden

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
5,895
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Palmer, Alaska
Lube is for heat and rusting from snow getting on the chain, I ran out of chain wax and have not lubed mine since before Hawkfest. I checked my chain this weekend and now it needs adjusted, the lack of lube caused the chain to strech, as long as I kept the chain lubed there was no sign of strech. So even with the mess caused I will be back to lubeing before every ride.
 
I
Jan 4, 2008
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Palmer AK.
Tlk that thirteen tooth top gear is pretty tight wrap on the chain. I'm running 14-26 and that sets me at a 1.85 ratio and Cj is running 14-30 on his 151 and he is at 2.14 Your gearing puts you at 2.15 My only thought is the bigger the gears the less resistance Just like adding a big wheel kit for the track. Just something to keep in mind. :beer;
 

J&L Snowhawk

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Jan 3, 2008
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Aberdeen, SD
stores.ebay.com
gears

TLK are you having the gears made to fit the stock shaft size top and bottom? what is the cost of the gears? I have had one belt tear the teeth off the inside edge of a belt and still consider switching to the chain. I also plan on dumping my tra for a comet 108EXP for more consistant clutching. Also I use klotz chain wax on all my bikes and works good. not messy unless you way over lube. used it on the aprilia this winter with good results.
 
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TLKDPROD

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2008
592
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Salmon Arm, BC
J&L,
I start off with a blank #50 sprocket and have it bore to size (30mm) and keywayed to size (8mm or 5/16") so they fit top and bottom driveshafts. Then reduce hub diameter and add holes on it if big enough for it.You won't find STD Sprockets bored & keywayed to a mm measurment unfortunately so that's why you have to work them and that's why they end up being a bit pricey.

First thing I need to do is further test the thing because apparently I may have problems with sprockets walking off of the shafts. That's what CJGodden, the initiator of this system, has experienced in the past. He's using a taper lock bottom sprocket to ensure it doesn't walk off and I'm using a set screw lock sprocket. I think it'll be ok since I drilled the key using the set screw holes and I had the keyway set screw to sit in the 1/8" deep hole I drilled, thus locking if from walking off. I also used blue locktite on the set screws, but, you never know what will happen with vibrations on these things...

Bottom line, I don't think I'm gonna sell any of these since my cup of tea is graphics !
Need graphics, pm me ! Need a chain drive setup or sprockets, pm CJGodden !

One sure thing is soon or later you'll get your money back on the system if your riding style doesn't fit the cog belt drive system !

Thanks for the tip on the Klotz chain lube. I use to use PJ1 & Ipone on all of my motocross in the past. If it doesn't fly off, that's a good thing. I'll try it.
 
M
Jan 22, 2008
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I have been thru three torque limiters

Have had that contrapption apart a dozen times, have a pile of broken discs and a few trashed hubs and pressure plates, Boivin has been cool about helpin the first time, the second :B's outback , and then me , but i think I would like to try the chain set up, especially before I get my turbo set up this summer, what is the cost overall and does anyone want to trade for some lightweight hoods, got some new powder scene templates done up, gonna doo white hood with blue screnes, black with red or yellow screnes, and clear with red,blue,or orange, should have some pics up on my website soon as well as hawkfest pics and Baker pics from this year, workin on the Season Three teaser, it is looking pretty action packed.
 
T

TLKDPROD

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2008
592
54
28
Salmon Arm, BC
Have had that contrapption apart a dozen times, have a pile of broken discs and a few trashed hubs and pressure plates, Boivin has been cool about helpin the first time, the second :B's outback , and then me , but i think I would like to try the chain set up, especially before I get my turbo set up this summer, what is the cost overall and does anyone want to trade for some lightweight hoods, got some new powder scene templates done up, gonna doo white hood with blue screnes, black with red or yellow screnes, and clear with red,blue,or orange, should have some pics up on my website soon as well as hawkfest pics and Baker pics from this year, workin on the Season Three teaser, it is looking pretty action packed.

I think you're shopping for trouble Cailen by turboing a non-EFI 2 stroke motor... bottom line but it's up to you, I don't know a lot about 2 stroke turbos... I'll kill to try it though !!!!! Hahahahaha !

You'll absolutely need the chain drive if you do it.

That being said, I think you should as well add an engine mount at the front, just to add a bit more rigidity and so you don't shear a front-clutchside motor mount bolt like I did !!! Was a real pain to get off let me tell ya... here's a pic. I'll still do a bit of work to it so I can use bushings to get rid of most of the harmonics traveling through the frame because of that. "Stiffer" moount allows clutches to work better I think. I bet'ya that when we're WOT, these 2 clutches would gladly appreciate meeting each other with the amount of force they create against each other ! Adding a bit of rigidity there is a must I think. There's M8 bolt holes in the crank case already there... All sleds have one, why not us !!!!! I call for "forgotten design by ADB" here. On the 503 not a big deal, 600 maybe not that much of a big deal either but 800s, especially souped up ones, a must.

Engine mount torque limiter on SH800.jpg
 
I
Jan 4, 2008
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Palmer AK.
You can also get a engine torque stop from WPS that is for a Yamaha 700 mountain max. It fits just above the voltage regulator and matches up to the back of the motor PERFECT. After i installed mine my belt life has doubled sense the clutches stay in line. I would take a picture but its hard to see sense its blocked by the carbs and jack shaft. And oh ya I don't take pictures maybe Cj will post some pics. Hee haha hehe.
 
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