I'd recommend pulling the motor and having a look at the crank though (it's not much work on my RT to pull the motor),,, I was going to just do the top end,, but I'm glad I checked the crank (was going to add fresh ISO grease only), but I had a bad bearing or two,,, likely would not have made the season; dry, noisy, even with some vibration on one of them you could feel on the crank when you spun it. It was an 05 sled with only about 2500 miles on it,,, Cost to look at crank is next to nothing if things are good,,, only a little RTV for the case and a couple oil seals if you change them,,, I did, seals about $15/e. D@mn grease is pricey though,,, I think I'll get a 500g tube for 100$ at Cyclepartsnation next time, as 50g tubes are $C43/e (local shop).
Edit, The only parts I had trouble with is getting the mag off as you need a plate/tool to hold the mag when you spin off the nut and then they call for a special puller (though some use a standard auto dampner puller),,, then finding all the greases and sealants were tough in my city,,, I think I stressed over it more than I should,,, I'm sure any high temp oil resistant RTV silicone (Ultra Black is what I would recommend as a substitute that you can find easily) would have worked fine on the case (manual called for Loctite 5910, and everything local is branded Permatex and I couldn't find that number),, and Molykote111 was tough to find, but I think any engine rebuild grease would work fine on the seals, LOL, that's all I used,,, Best of luck with whatever you try.
PS, I did find 515 sealant,, but the manual scared me away from using it as the 515 does not seam to be a silicone, and they warn against using any no silicone based products as it may not bond well as silicone is what was used at factory,,, best would be to order in some 5910 ahead of time,,,
