Top end rebuild time?

[s-gbray1]

Just got done checking my 11 pro over and I decided to do a compression check. At 1600 miles It is at 70-75 PSI, can anyone tell me what spec is? I'm guessing since I want to put high compression heads (Bikeman) on I should probably do a top end rebuild but I just wanted some opinions. Anyone got a spec sheet they could send me on clearances and torque specs on stock pistons? Or if I buy aftermarket pistons will they come with specs? What are your recomendations for pistons with heads?
Also I'm getting what I consider to be a little excessive leakage on the chaincase seal around the crank, anyone else have that issue?

 

[rmscustom]

Not sure on the specs but 70-75psi is WAY LOW! As for rebuilding I'd look at Rkt drop in, Indy dan long rod or Mtntk fix kit.

 

[LoudHandle]

From Memory it should be closer to 120-130 depending on your elevation. I don't understand the seal that you think is leaking from your description but any leak is a problem and should be fixed. My vote goes to Indy Dan.

 

[s-gbray1]

Leak

The seal I'm referring to is around the shaft on the brake rotor, any idea of a time line as to when I should replace the chain?

 

[LoudHandle]

The seal I'm referring to is around the shaft on the brake rotor, any idea of a time line as to when I should replace the chain?

With a yearly oil change and cleaning of the magnet, a chain should last a minimum of 5000 miles likely many more. I've never changed a chain because it wore out. I have broken a few but that is another story.

 

[knifedge]

--Wow -- 1600 miles is not that many and the motor is practically worn out -- at least it has not blown up

--I'd take the motor out and tear it down to the last gasket and rebuild it with a RKT top end and head kit

--Check the cylinder skirts for stress cracks and maybe even replace the crank with a '13 if the oil pump was never turned up

 

[xcmark]

I would really question how accurate your gauge is ! I don't question at 1600 miles your piston skirts are no longer in spec but honestly I don't think your motor would run on a cold start in the winter with only 75 psi if that what it really is. If I was doing the work not under warrenty I would be putting a RTK top end with a head. If I had more money I would look at his 858 big bore top end. Havent heard any great reviews on bikeman ,that's the biggest reason I say RTK.

 

[suitcase]

Any more with the new polaris motor, the top end needs done at 2000 for sure no more. If you ride your sled hard, your looking at problems when you get these miles on the new motors. Im not say hard trail miles, ive started to see this in the last few sleds. Hard mountian miles at 2000 getter done. IMO...

 

[s-gbray1]

Turning up oil pump?

I've seen this on the forums before, but how do I turn up the oiler again? If I'm gonna do some work on it I might as turn it up. It looks like u turn the screw in further? I hope someone will confirm or deny that before I go messing with it

 

[knoba]

Tester

Try another compression tester they can vary, i purchased one from harbor freight and it read 30psi less than a more expensive one.

 

[rmscustom]

I've seen this on the forums before, but how do I turn up the oiler again? If I'm gonna do some work on it I might as turn it up. It looks like u turn the screw in further? I hope someone will confirm or deny that before I go messing with it

Turn the screw in farther, 3 turns seems to be popular.