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Tips and tricks

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I'm sure most of us are in some phase of preparing our sleds for the upcoming season, and it never fails that when you start working on something you always run into problems, even doing the simplest things. So if you have any slick tips or tricks you have come up with, post 'em up. I'll start with a simple one-
Last night I was installing new grips on my sled. Removed the outer portion of the handlebar hooks (leaving the other part inside the bar), slide old grip off, install new grips... go to reinstall the hooks and the one on the right hand side was sticking out about 1/8" from the end of the bar because the inner part of the hook was stuck inside the bar. So I found a long bolt with the same threads, a nut, and 2 fender washers and rigged up a puller. Thread the nut onto the bolt a ways, and put the 2 fender washers under it (one wasn't strong enough this time around). Thread the bolt into the stuck piece inside the bar until you are sure it's all or most of the way through (don't wanna strip the threads), then bottom the fender washers and nut up against the end of the bar. Hold the bolt with one wrench and tighten down on the nut with another, and as you do it will pull the stuck bar end piece out. Once I got the insert to the end of the bar, I was able to tug on the bolt and it popped right out. I cleaned up a small ridge inside the bars with a chainsaw file and it slid back in easily without getting stuck again.
One more- WD-40 works great as grip glue. Just spray some inside your new grips before you slide them on- it makes sliding them on easier, and when the WD-40 dries it helps adhere the grip to the bar.
 
I'm sure most of us are in some phase of preparing our sleds for the upcoming season, and it never fails that when you start working on something you always run into problems, even doing the simplest things. So if you have any slick tips or tricks you have come up with, post 'em up. I'll start with a simple one-
Last night I was installing new grips on my sled. Removed the outer portion of the handlebar hooks (leaving the other part inside the bar), slide old grip off, install new grips... go to reinstall the hooks and the one on the right hand side was sticking out about 1/8" from the end of the bar because the inner part of the hook was stuck inside the bar. So I found a long bolt with the same threads, a nut, and 2 fender washers and rigged up a puller. Thread the nut onto the bolt a ways, and put the 2 fender washers under it (one wasn't strong enough this time around). Thread the bolt into the stuck piece inside the bar until you are sure it's all or most of the way through (don't wanna strip the threads), then bottom the fender washers and nut up against the end of the bar. Hold the bolt with one wrench and tighten down on the nut with another, and as you do it will pull the stuck bar end piece out. Once I got the insert to the end of the bar, I was able to tug on the bolt and it popped right out. I cleaned up a small ridge inside the bars with a chainsaw file and it slid back in easily without getting stuck again.
One more- WD-40 works great as grip glue. Just spray some inside your new grips before you slide them on- it makes sliding them on easier, and when the WD-40 dries it helps adhere the grip to the bar.
I take it everyone here just buys a new sled instead of working on the one they have...
come on don't be shy!
 
I use isopropal alcahol on the grips, but ya gotta be fast, and don't follow an old powder special anywhere. You will get a fat lip.
 
When taking the airbox off a carbed 07 IQ, put a little grease on the lower edge, this slides up against a plate that is on top of the tunnel which in effect keeps the airbox in towards the carbs, with the grease on there it slides/slips right in place. Also, the fresh air kit makes it a bit easier to put your hands into the box to align the carb/airbox boots.

Quit messing around with cargo bags, they wear out, fade and eventually leak.

Who rides "behind" an Arctic Cat anyways?
 
When taking the airbox off a carbed 07 IQ, put a little grease on the lower edge, this slides up against a plate that is on top of the tunnel which in effect keeps the airbox in towards the carbs, with the grease on there it slides/slips right in place. Also, the fresh air kit makes it a bit easier to put your hands into the box to align the carb/airbox boots.

Quit messing around with cargo bags, they wear out, fade and eventually leak.



Thanks, thats a good tip Adrenaline, I put some grease on the air box boots but it's still a struggle to get them on. I use a pelican box strapped to the rack on the back of my Dragon for storage. Works slick, keeps stuff dry and secure, got it for $30 off of E-Bay.
 
When taking the airbox off a carbed 07 IQ, put a little grease on the lower edge, this slides up against a plate that is on top of the tunnel which in effect keeps the airbox in towards the carbs, with the grease on there it slides/slips right in place. Also, the fresh air kit makes it a bit easier to put your hands into the box to align the carb/airbox boots.

Quit messing around with cargo bags, they wear out, fade and eventually leak.



Thanks, thats a good tip Adrenaline, I put some grease on the air box boots but it's still a struggle to get them on. I use a pelican box strapped to the rack on the back of my Dragon for storage. Works slick, keeps stuff dry and secure, got it for $30 off of E-Bay.


Good deal trenchmaster. Great buy on the case, was that price with shipping? We keep it honest, anyone can copy our product with a little thought but pretty hard to beat the way it mounts and quality straps/buckles and stainless hardware not to mention the pad keeps it level. Thanks for the comments! Bags do suck don't they? Nothing comparable to what we sell, or at least for the price, but that isn't what we do mostly, we have a few other irons in the fire!
 
I learned something new last fall when i was doing my big bore...

When you get one back no matter HOW much it's been cleaned by the guy who did the work you're going to need to chase the threads on your bolt holes. You will be amazed at the material that's in there. Do this BEFORE you intsall it on your sled and have to worry about stuff falling out and into your engine!

the trick: You don't have to buy some fancy 'matieral removing' bolt in the correct size! just take an head bolt -remember to buy a new one, cheaper than buying the specialty 'tool', and cut a strip down the center of the bolt. Put it in a vise and just use a regualr hack saw. I think I have a pic, I posted this somewhere else when I did it. Works like a charm!

IMG_4295.jpg


Good one about the WD-40. Learned that trick from my MX days, works great! I'll see if I can think of any others...
 
When installing a new riser, put duct tape over the steering column hole. Takes a lot of :beer;:beer; and time to retrieve a washer or nut.:eek:

If you need to remove exhaust springs without a spring tool, use wire or if you're out in the Tundra you can even use a boot lace.

Could probably write a book but that's just a couple that came to mind.:face-icon-small-hap
 
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