Now that we have taken apart a few 08 and 09 Dragons I have noticed another glaring error by the good folks at polaris. The cylinder to case fit is also all over the board. We have measured from .003 to .016 gap between the cylinder skirt and case. This along with the insane piston clearance is just one more example of garbage quality control on these motors.
It is imperative that this clearance be reduced to zero to .001, as it it the only way the cylinder skirt will have any of the support needed with the crazy loose piston slapping aganist it. Every motor with jugs I have ever built, be it sled,vw,porsche,lycoming has a slight press to very snug fit it this area. If you look at all the busted pistons and broken skirts its amazing some run at all.
Figure if the piston has .009 and the cylinder skirt has .014 total, the skirt will actually move .oo7 each time the piston goes through its cycle. The cases we have seen all show signs of the skirt hitting the case bore (.007 or more away) So just like a aluminium can, how many times can you bend it .007 before it work hardens to the point or cracking and breaking off? So in some motors I suspect the cylinder broke before the piston, others the piston before the cylinder. Both are crazy clearances.
Now why do you think that Polaris uses so loose a clearance? Well because the cylinder is CRAP and the distortion it shows when brought up to temp is amazing, it will in fact go anywhere from .004 to.016 egg shaped..
(this was measured with case and head all torqued down and up to 150 deg) So on some motors if you run correct piston clearance of .004 to .005 the piston is sure to scuff or stick even if the fuel mix is spot on. others with better clearance and honeing may run OK. . Now if you hone it torqued and hot to round you have a distorted cylinder when cold. arghhhhhhh !!!!!
One sure fire fix for all these problem is the separate jugs of the carls 860 kit, but very high priced (4k) so not a good option. I think the "fix" is a great idea,and seems to take the load off the cylinder walls.
As far as the case clearance goes there are 2 ways to fix this, the first and best is to plasma spray material to the skirt to reduce clearance to zero. Well you have to have someone with the machine so thats out for most folks. second method is to when installing cylinder use a piece of the correct thickness shimstock between the cylinder skirt and the case to reduce clearance to zero this is risky on the intake side tho as the shim is not "trapped" and could fall out. Also use a SLIGHT amount of "the right stuff" silicone product on the sides of the shim to in effect "glue" it inplace. (applied in the thinest possible layer with your finger) this stuff is resistant to gas and oil and high temp. Now what about the intake side? well you can offset grind the dowell pins to shift the cylinder to the intake side to allow the skirts to touch there, and add your shim (or metal) in the correct thickness all to the exhaust side.
IMHO tighting the cylinder, using the fix kit, coating the pistons as milehigh stated and using a high quality piston as well as filling all case and cylinder voids with high temp epoxy or block fill these motors should have a good service life... Yes I do in fact have to much time on my hands and hunks of garbage like this being produced is why I am happy I sold my race engine shop and retired.....hahhahahahah....
It is imperative that this clearance be reduced to zero to .001, as it it the only way the cylinder skirt will have any of the support needed with the crazy loose piston slapping aganist it. Every motor with jugs I have ever built, be it sled,vw,porsche,lycoming has a slight press to very snug fit it this area. If you look at all the busted pistons and broken skirts its amazing some run at all.
Figure if the piston has .009 and the cylinder skirt has .014 total, the skirt will actually move .oo7 each time the piston goes through its cycle. The cases we have seen all show signs of the skirt hitting the case bore (.007 or more away) So just like a aluminium can, how many times can you bend it .007 before it work hardens to the point or cracking and breaking off? So in some motors I suspect the cylinder broke before the piston, others the piston before the cylinder. Both are crazy clearances.
Now why do you think that Polaris uses so loose a clearance? Well because the cylinder is CRAP and the distortion it shows when brought up to temp is amazing, it will in fact go anywhere from .004 to.016 egg shaped..
(this was measured with case and head all torqued down and up to 150 deg) So on some motors if you run correct piston clearance of .004 to .005 the piston is sure to scuff or stick even if the fuel mix is spot on. others with better clearance and honeing may run OK. . Now if you hone it torqued and hot to round you have a distorted cylinder when cold. arghhhhhhh !!!!!
One sure fire fix for all these problem is the separate jugs of the carls 860 kit, but very high priced (4k) so not a good option. I think the "fix" is a great idea,and seems to take the load off the cylinder walls.
As far as the case clearance goes there are 2 ways to fix this, the first and best is to plasma spray material to the skirt to reduce clearance to zero. Well you have to have someone with the machine so thats out for most folks. second method is to when installing cylinder use a piece of the correct thickness shimstock between the cylinder skirt and the case to reduce clearance to zero this is risky on the intake side tho as the shim is not "trapped" and could fall out. Also use a SLIGHT amount of "the right stuff" silicone product on the sides of the shim to in effect "glue" it inplace. (applied in the thinest possible layer with your finger) this stuff is resistant to gas and oil and high temp. Now what about the intake side? well you can offset grind the dowell pins to shift the cylinder to the intake side to allow the skirts to touch there, and add your shim (or metal) in the correct thickness all to the exhaust side.
IMHO tighting the cylinder, using the fix kit, coating the pistons as milehigh stated and using a high quality piston as well as filling all case and cylinder voids with high temp epoxy or block fill these motors should have a good service life... Yes I do in fact have to much time on my hands and hunks of garbage like this being produced is why I am happy I sold my race engine shop and retired.....hahhahahahah....
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