Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Nice advice but lets remember that this is for personal use. I am kinda in the same boat as the OP. Sure the Miller might outlive the Lincoln but for someone that is teaching themselves/learning and using it for personal/non business/commercial use; will I ever run down the Lincoln? Doubtful.
Cost certainly has to be factored in.
How much harder is it to learn TIG than MIG? I taught myself how to MIG weld, the hardest part was learning heat and feed settings. Have welded steel and Stainless. Stainless was much harder but not bad once I figured the heat thing out. I used a Lincoln 255C which I have loved.
I would agree with that... I'm pretty sure I use my Lincoln TIG way more than the average hobby user and have had no issues.
As far as learning goes, TIG is a little trickier to pick up than MIG, you are always using both hands (one to hold the torch and the other to feed your filler rod) as well as one foot for the foot control. Working inside a car upside down can get kinda interesting at times, you really need to get creative on how to operate the foot pedal at times!It can certainly help to get some pointers from an experienced welder, and from there it's practice practice and more practice. I would suggest starting with mild steel, and learn to just fuse 2 pieces together; this will get you familiar with the current requirements and keeping the tungsten an appropriate distance from the material being welded. If you ground the tungsten it will instantly be contaminated and you will have to re-grind the tip or switch to a fresh clean tungsten. I always prep about a dozen (on the grinder with a cordles drill; wear a respirator because thoriated tungsten is mildly radioactive) pieces of tungsten at once so I don't have to do it again for a while. Once you have the fusing technique mastered you can start adding some filler rod to the equation for a proper weld. Keep in mind if you are working with stainless you need to use a shielding gas to the backside of the weld as well. After you have paid your dues on welding steel you can think about trying aluminum, which is a whole new ball game.... but I just LOVE the look of a quality weld on aluminum!
I won't get into that unless someone asks tho.
We have a lincon square wave 175. In my opinion, the square wave is the only way to go. Had a big azz miller and a high freq. Box and that damn thing wouldnt weld for $#!|. Couldnt even make a half decent chicken track with an aluminum spool gun. this square wave we have now will weld soda cans together if you have small enough tungsten and filler, and a damn steady hand.![]()
I'm saving up for a miller xmt 350 mpa. Does everything.
Josh, The XMT is a good top of the line inverter, if your primary welding needs are powering a squirt gun. However if you're going to TIG much at all you will be much happier with the Dynasty 350 which will leave you a couple grand in your pocket. I use the sh_t out of my Dynasty 700 at work and as soon as save enough coin, I will be upgrading my Syncrowave 250 at the house.
If you did not catch my tone above, I'm not a propenent of the squirt gun and will never condone the use of a squirt gun weld as a replacement for a real weld!
To each their own, if you don't have enough skill to lay a good bead with another process you probably don't have the skill or know how to run a good bead with the squirt gun!
The boss also bought a XMT 350 and all the bells and whistles for squirting aluminum with a XR push pull feeder and the Lincoln (model?) suitcase feeder for steel. It all just sits in the corner collecting dust except when the boss needs out of the office and decides to play.
Hope that helps in your decision.
So, high frequency MIG, or spray-ark are inferior in your oppinion? Dont mean to disrespect, because there are instances that good old fasioned SMAW is the only way to go, however, to say that it is THE only way to go is kind of misleading. There are also times that contractors will not accept SMAW because the contaminent level is too high, and the strengts of spray-ark will be higher. Only reason for SMAW over spray-ark is position.
I knew a few of you would get bent by my opinion. I'm not saying it doesn't have it's place, it does. Just not in my shop nor anything I build. But I am ultra particular on my quality and if given the option I will / would GTAW / TIG everything. My forte is aluminum and exotics like titanium, Monel, inconel, duplex Stainless Steel, ect. Not your run of the mill job shop welder that is driven to produce quantity instead of quality. I'd rather do one weld a day that will last forever, than do a thousand that will fail in the next few years. And to say SMAW is too dirty for some codes is bull, a skilled welder can do a cleaner weld than a squirt gun. Most of the issues I see is inadequate preperation and improper setup and technique.
Sorry for my rant but fabrication is my carrier as well as my passion; in case you couldn't tell.
No hurt feelers here, man. Its all good. Wasnt my intention to start a fight or anything like that. I agree that traditional wire feed isnt really a better option for alot of things, save for sheet metal work in a body shop.
I dissagree that any welder can create a cleaner weld with SMAW than with spray-ark. There is simply nothing there ti contaminate the weld given the surface was preped right, whereas the coating on the rod itself can actually become a contaminant. Of course, a skilled welder can usually negate that possibility, but people make mistakes. Even the most skilled welder.
All of that being said, i actually prefer TIG for everything i can possibly use it on. I like having the control. And contrary to everyone elses usual expirience, i actually have an easier time welding aluminum than anything else...