Stainless is the way.
Aluminum shear off like butter.
Aluminum shear off like butter.
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Those Alaskan guys ride way harder than the rest of us ? I use plastic rivets to save money and weight!Stainless is the way.
Aluminum shear off like butter.
So OP here. Just wanted to give an update in case anyone wants to do this in the future. I ended up cutting my 22 850 Khaos 155 to make it a Slash. I have a second one I will be doing this with as well.
Went with the backwoods 155 slash rear bumper kit then cut 5.5 inches of the tunnel and then put everything back together. To the untrained eye you can't even tell its not a stock slash.
A couple tips. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Take your time. Use a cutoff saw not a jigsaw or Sawzall. Measure, fit, measure, cut. The sleashnis exactly 5.5 inches shorter than a non slash. If you have a 155 and want to go even shorter buy the 146 slash bumper kit. All the holes and rivets line up perfect.
This rear end is solid as a rock now. I was really suprised how flimsy the oem bumper and tunnel setup was. A tunnel brace should be mandatory on this chassis IMO.
Anyway, here some pics. Enjoy the off-season sled porn. View attachment 405511View attachment 405512View attachment 405513View attachment 405514View attachment 405515View attachment 405516View attachment 405517View attachment 405518
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Pretty much yeah. Prep is key. Measure a bunch then mark and cut once. Mountain sledder garage actually did a pretty good video on it. . Also regarding the 146 cut. I'm not sure on the length but I'm pretty sure you can buy a 146 bumper and cut accordingly. Assuming the 146 rivet locations are the same as the 155 tunnel the bumper itself makes a pretty good template. You would just cut at the angle where the bumper attaches to the rail braces. Also, you have to trim the bottom as well to match the profile of the rail brace. Pretty easy.Im going to do this to my 22 matryx 155 pro rmk. So its just a matter or ordering a backwoods BMP 155 rear bumper and then cutting off 5.5 inches ?
Pretty much yeah. Prep is key. Measure a bunch then mark and cut once. Mountain sledder garage actually did a pretty good video on it. . Also regarding the 146 cut. I'm not sure on the length but I'm pretty sure you can buy a 146 bumper and cut accordingly. Assuming the 146 rivet locations are the same as the 155 tunnel the bumper itself makes a pretty good template. You would just cut at the angle where the bumper attaches to the rail braces. Also, you have to trim the bottom as well to match the profile of the rail brace. Pretty easy.
My riding partner has a 23 slash, before he rode it he added the 24 scratchers. That sled runs cool in all conditions it is definitely worth trying.So I don't plan to run a snow flap for now. 1. The slash visor doesn't really do much anyway and the stock one would snag on the track I beleive. 2. I have ice scratchers and since this is originally a non-slash it has the longer cooler that goes 12 inches past the fuel tank vs the slash cooler that is the length of the fuel tank. We'll see how it works in real life next winter though and adjust from there. I have a buddy with a real slash that is cut even shorter than this and runs no snow flap. In normal snow conditions no issue. In icey hard pack it can become an issue.
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Yeah I ended up using the brp ones and they worked great. This year I upgraded to ice age rails so I bought a set of the new polaris scratchers and they look like they will work even better.My riding partner has a 23 slash, before he rode it he added the 24 scratchers. That sled runs cool in all conditions it is definitely worth trying.