Throttle safety switch

[glassman]

I was riding my 12 pro yesterday and noticed alot of ice build up on the throttle, to the point where I couldn't get full throttle. When I let off, the machine kept going and i almost ran into a tree well. There was considerable ice build up between the flipper and the body, and the throttle wouldn't return to full close. The TSS was doing nothing as it was all iced up.
My question is, wouldn't it be better to have a tether, and disconnect the TSS all together. You could run the throttle cable a little looser and not have to worry about the machine running away.

 

[D8rider]

when i replaced my handlebar. i changed it to rsi bars 5 inch instead of the 7 inch pro taper, i hated the polaris throttle block, so what i did i got rid of the polaris throttle block and installed the rsi throttle block, i removed the tss switch out of the stock block and zap strapped the button so it stays closed and tucked the switch with all the wiring harness below the bunk head. no issue ever since.

 

[glassman]

What really surprised me was the fact that the TSS wasn't able to move from all the ice behind it, and when I used the throttle, nothing changed. What is this thing supposed to do other than give you something else to go wrong?

 

[D8rider]

there are 2 sensor for the tss switch one on throttle and one on throttle body. when apply the throttle the switch closes before the throttle body opens up and closed the switch at throttle body. so polaris design this to prevent throttle stuck wide open when there's snow in the throttle block....really it doesn't really work unless there was another reason behind this tss switch

 

[theultrarider]

there are 2 sensor for the tss switch one on throttle and one on throttle body. when apply the throttle the switch closes before the throttle body opens up and closed the switch at throttle body. so polaris design this to prevent throttle stuck wide open when there's snow in the throttle block....really it doesn't really work unless there was another reason behind this tss switch

That is not correct. The system is designed to activate should the throttle cable or the throttle body assembly freeze or stick. When you release the throttle lever with either of those "stuck" the flipper will pivot out differently than it would if it was pressure from the cable and the tss will kill the motor. That is why it is so important to keep your throttle adjusted up snugly. If there is too much freeplay in your throttle lever, it will cut in and out at slow speeds, or anytime really when you back out of the throttle and pop and backfire. At idle it will die even

 

[diamonddave]

That is not correct. The system is designed to activate should the throttle cable or the throttle body assembly freeze or stick. When you release the throttle lever with either of those "stuck" the flipper will pivot out differently than it would if it was pressure from the cable and the tss will kill the motor. That is why it is so important to keep your throttle adjusted up snugly. If there is too much freeplay in your throttle lever, it will cut in and out at slow speeds, or anytime really when you back out of the throttle and pop and backfire. At idle it will die even

Correct. Although everytime I have had throttle cable icing issues even with a perfectly adjusted cable, the flipper would NEVER fully return to a closed position because there was too much snow/ice on the inner cable at the flipper.


Guess i'll have to quit riding in such deep snow.

 

[glassman]

Well if that is how the system is supposed to work, then it is not working on my machine. The little silver pin does not move when there is ice behind it. Therfore the switch must not be getting closed when the throttle is getting pressed. It is doing nothing, so if I just omit the switch all together, do I just close the loop or leave it open. (switch on or off)

With the switch bypassed, I could leave the throttle cable a little looser and not have to worry about the little bit of snow getting behind it and holding the throttle open that little bit. Right?

 

[xc6rider]

It sounds as though its a resistance set-up. If thats the case, one should be able to test the resistance of the switch/switches and find a way to bypass with resistors.

It sounds possible, but i havent even looked at it yet, so i have no idea if it will or not.

 

[D8rider]

I apologize for the confusion about the tss switch. thanks ultrarider for correcting me. what i did with the tss switch. i dissassemble the throttle block and inside the block there's a philip screw with a large washer. remove that screw and pull out the tss switch. i zap strap the switch so it stays closed and taped it around so the strap doesn't fall out. then i tugged the harness into the harness bag right inside the bulkhead right below the headlight.

 

[glassman]

I apologize for the confusion about the tss switch. thanks ultrarider for correcting me. what i did with the tss switch. i dissassemble the throttle block and inside the block there's a philip screw with a large washer. remove that screw and pull out the tss switch. i zap strap the switch so it stays closed and taped it around so the strap doesn't fall out. then i tugged the harness into the harness bag right inside the bulkhead right below the headlight.

Sounds like the route to go for this issue. Thanks!

 

[theultrarider]

Sounds like the route to go for this issue. Thanks!

Make sure to add, and WEAR a tether if you don't already.

 

[D8rider]

40 bucks for polaris tether and 20 min job. find a spot where you want it on the console. drill a 1/2 inch hole. install the tether switch. plug the tether to the existing harness right below the bulkhead. its alot easier than replace the whole front end after crashing into a tree at wot...also wishing you spend the 40 dollars tether to prevent that from happening...

 

[xc6rider]

40 bucks for polaris tether and 20 min job. find a spot where you want it on the console. drill a 1/2 inch hole. install the tether switch. plug the tether to the existing harness right below the bulkhead. its alot easier than replace the whole front end after crashing into a tree at wot...also wishing you spend the 40 dollars tether to prevent that from happening...

Get the tether with the older part # and its around $20! Half price for the same function