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throttle response

glassman

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I just took my m8t out today with a boondocker race kit. When i grab a handfull of throttle the machine dies. If i feather it in, it will clear up and eventually go. Real ****ty for boondocking. It has an exhaust valve elimination kit on it as well. Is this the cause of my bottom end bogging? Any advice would be great.
 
sounds like your fuel settings may be way to rich in the bottom, ive heard that the powervalve delete can cause some loss in throttle responce but i dont think it is that drastic
 
Pm me your info. Are you running ADA or regular? What are your Boondocker box settings? What do your a/f numbers or EGT numbers look like? Make sure your barometric tube off of the ECU is not restricted or pinched.
 
Like said above, check settings. If it does have the intercooler, it will be "soft" on the bottom end no matter what you do.

Sam
 
If the motor dies it sounds more like a lean bog to me. Also if the pressuere tube off of the ECU is blocked it will cause this.
 
Intercooler delete with ADA. I changed the boost actuator for low boost. Having never touched one of these things before i am pretty green with the settings. I need to spend some more time learing how to run the control box. So should i make other adjustments with the control box to compensate for the lower boost actuator. I didnt think the bottom end would change at all. I just got this machine and never ran it before changing the actuator. I will check the pressure tube, i thnk i can figure that one out. I am tuning with egt's only and the temps seem to be pretty good on the top end. I tried leaning out the bottom rpm range but it was actually worse. I will go through the settings tonight to see where the baseline is.
 
Ok, the tube is not pinched and the settings are where boondocker recomends as a base as far as i can tell. Should settings be different from race to pump? Seems to rev up ok in the garage when it is cold. Once the machine is warm it seems to be worse. I am in the process of putting the exhaust valves back in. I will see what that does.
 
glassman

Keep us posted glassman, I have the same setup as you and also have not hit the snow yet. I did the exact same thing, Lost the intercooler, added ada and got a wider range acuator for pump levels as well. I will be on the snow by next week to play with it. Ill let ya know what i find!!
 
Good thread. I took my 2008 M8 BD Race Gas Turbo out today for the first time and had issues. I was getting error codes (15) indicating my exhaust valve solenoid wasn't working. It was pretty obvious. The turbo never kicked. I rode it 100yards, then back to the truck. I was just going to post asking if I should delete the valves, but sounds like I may want to consider keeping them. I too have the intercooler, and am wondering what the ADA is some of you are referencing.

Sorry about the post rob.
 
I put the exhaust valves back in and couldn't load the thing into the trailer to take it for a test ride. It was overfueling like crazy with the stock valves in. Put the delete back in, and back to where i started. Phoned boondocker today and they were great at guiding me on the control box. They seem to think it is a setting problem too. Gave me a few tips i'm gonna try next. Man this thing is awsome when it gets going though!
 
Exhaust valve deletes and turbos dont mix. They kill low end torque and fuel economy. Did it throw a code with the servo and valves hooked up?
 
No codes thrown. Just loads right up and won't clear out. I just bought a service manual and will do all of the tests on the servo and adjust the cables accordingly. I just cant ride this thing as it is. Boggy when you need it and all of a sudden it comes on and trenches. I did notice my temp light flickering once in a while but not all the time. When it was on, the throttle was even worse (probably in some safety mode) I ordered a new sensor.
 
Great thread. I have the same sled (but with the intercooler, and havent upgraded to ADA yet) I took mine out for the first time the other day and it was EXACTLY as you are describing. Keep us posted as to what you find.:beer;
 
Temp Flashing

Ok all you guru's. I had the temp light flashing ocasionally and thought I had a faulty temp sender. I also changed the pipe temp sensor at the same time. Flashed the machine up stone cold and the light still flashes. Not solid but blinks then stops then blinks again. What else could cause this?
 
Can the intake temp sensor cause the temp light to blink too? Would too much fuel and oil, mess with the air intake sensor? If it is that sensitive then seems to me it would not be able to read properly. What do you think? Also found alot of fuel in the bottom of the boost box after sitting in the garage. How would I check the injectors for leaking?
 
Can the intake temp sensor cause the temp light to blink too? Would too much fuel and oil, mess with the air intake sensor? If it is that sensitive then seems to me it would not be able to read properly. What do you think? Also found alot of fuel in the bottom of the boost box after sitting in the garage. How would I check the injectors for leaking?

if you have fuel in the the intake i dont think thats a good thing the other thing to do is count the flashes with the break in the flashes and look in the book or on the shock tower and see what code is flashing
 
Do you have a boost line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator in the tank. may be leaking. check it
 
Bottom end bog

My first guess is to much fuel Pressure and Bd # are usually to rich specially on bottom end just take some fuel out of the low number but make sure you have a hot pipe before you go to tuning.some times you just need to turn fuel psi to like 38 instead of 40.

The post that had the error code of servo motor you must have some issue with the yellow wire that you hook to the servo or a bad ground from BD box.
 
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